OWK Saber Progress

franz bolo · Nov 7, 2005

Here is what I have so far:

Only the Pommel and the Gear are original. I have an original Graflex and Calculator Bubble strip at home, but for this I used the one that was on my SD Studios OWK.

The grenade is a Chen, and the Emmiter is an Obee1. I also have some Chen Transistors but I have to finish up the clamp before I will add it.

I'll wait till I get an Emmiter before I start to weather the grenade.

FB

Serafino · Nov 7, 2005

Looks great FB, amazing start on that saber.

Lordsandy · Nov 7, 2005

Looking good.

:thumbsup

Killdozer · Nov 7, 2005

Ah, that's pretty. Going for a "mint" look?

KD

Howard · Nov 7, 2005

Beautiful, FB. Lovely 'gear.'
Remember to remove the rectangular tab beneath the clamp lever.

Best,

Howard.

franz bolo · Nov 7, 2005

Originally posted by Howard@Nov 7 2005, 01:13 PM
Beautiful, FB. Lovely 'gear.'
Remember to remove the rectangular tab beneath the clamp lever.

Best,

Howard.

[snapback]1111574[/snapback]

Thanks for the tip. I have to work on the graflex clamp when I get home. I'm so excited... I have to also take the bubble strip out of the calculator and make a spacer to fit underneath the clamp.

After I finished my EL saber for Halloween, I've been fiending to start another project.

FB

franz bolo · Nov 21, 2005

So I got my Graflex Clamp to work on and cut a piece of Delrin after I measured the space between the grenade and the Booster.

It looked great. I screwed it together and was going to mark the holes where the transistors would screw into and noticed that the spacer isn't long enough. It bumps right up against the booster.

If you don't hollow out the area on the delrin where the Booster nut is, the delrin is only half way covering the hole in the Graflex Clamp.

This makes it real hard to screw the transistor in.

What are other peoples solutions? I was thinking of using a pipe instead of delrin. I just have to find one that's thick enough for the transistors to screw into.

FB

Serafino · Nov 21, 2005

FB, you are a pioneer. In the prop world that means: one who gets there first and figures out what doesn't work so the rest of us don't have to.

Sounds like boring out the Delrin would be the way to go. It would probably cut ok with a big spade bit actually. How much wall would that leave though, I forget the nut max. diameter...

franz bolo · Nov 21, 2005

:lol My wife calls me something else like Paininrear.

The nuts max OD is about 1.05 so that gives you about 1/4" wall thickness. The nut is only about 0.25" thick so the hole doesn't have to be that deep.

I used a spade bit to cut the hole through the middle, and I think my neighbor has a 1" bit.

I might end up getting a machined one made that fit's up in the grenade also. that way this thing will be super strong.. :love

FB

franz bolo · Nov 24, 2005

Some terminology I was told:

I was told buy a collector that the part with the heat sink is called a BEARING, and the Flange that screws in the front is called the BOOSTER.

In the top photo, I didn't use the BEARING at all. I used an SD Studios spacer and clamp and it fit just fine.

FB

OldKen · Nov 24, 2005

only the gear and pommel are real???

what a piece of junk.

ill take it off your hands for 5 bucks, but i couldnt see paying anymore than that. :lol

franz bolo · Nov 24, 2005

OK, send me your account number and I'll deposit it right in there.

I have a real clamp, but not the grenade or the emmiter.

I love the granade I have, and am starting to weather it.

I'll take procress pics, and if it turns out any good, I'll post them.

FB

franz bolo · Nov 28, 2005

I was inspired by Laszlo's Chen grenade he weathered and couldn't wait to start weathering my own Chen Grenade. Here are some progress pics.

I have 10 pictures/stages so far. I started this last thursday and worked on it during the holiday.

01) I used water and left it outside for a few hours.
02) More water and left it on my window sill outside overnight.
03) After srcubbing it with a toothbrush, I Squirted Lemon Juice on it and let it sit for a few hours then rinsed it off.
04) Wrapped it in a paper towel and soaked it with Lemon Juice overnight.
05) Freshly unwrapped.
06) Dried after I unwrapped it.
07) Scrubbed it with a toothbrush. (not mine)
08) After a better cleaning.
09) Squirted more Lemon Juice and wrapped it at work for 3 or 4 hours.
10) Squirted with more Lemon Juice and let it air dry, then cleaned it with toothbrush.

FB

clancampbell · Nov 29, 2005

Very nice.
I love a good weathering job and this certainly qualifies.

Rich

Howard · Nov 29, 2005

Great work.
I like the patterns in the steel.
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?

Howard.

BATS · Nov 29, 2005

bet it now has a nice lemony smell to it too.

LOL

Great job. Funny how a simple thing like lemon acid will age metal like this
muratic acid would do it in a similiar way but I think it might take to much of the metal down

franz bolo · Nov 29, 2005

Originally posted by Howard@Nov 29 2005, 03:50 AM
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?
Howard.

[snapback]1124411[/snapback]

Thanks for the comments!

Howard, what is wet and dry?

Here's the whole saber again:

FB

Howard · Nov 29, 2005

Originally posted by franz bolo+Nov 29 2005, 04:51 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Nov 29 2005, 04:51 PM)</div>

<!--QuoteBegin-Howard

Click to expand...

@Nov 29 2005, 03:50 AM
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?
Howard.

[snapback]1124411[/snapback]

Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments.

Howard, what is wet and dry?

FB

[snapback]1124534[/snapback]
[/b]

Sandpaper.

EDIT: I know I've mentioned this before, but take the rectangular tab off that's beneath the clamp lever.
Great looking saber.

Howard.

phase pistol · Nov 29, 2005

As awesome as that looks... I'm afraid to start my grenade rusting. Won't it continue to deteriorate? How do you stabilize it to stop further pitting and damage? :confused

I may just paint mine. :angel

- K

Serafino · Nov 29, 2005

Originally posted by phase pistol+Nov 29 2005, 08:57 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phase pistol @ Nov 29 2005, 08:57 AM)</div>

As awesome as that looks... I'm afraid to start my grenade rusting. Won't it continue to deteriorate? How do you stabilize it to stop further pitting and damage?Â :confused

I may just paint mine.Â :angel

- K
[/b]

Click to expand...

Just use oil to stop the rust. If you're really worried use a guncare product like Break Free. It will remove much of the rust but should leave the patina. After the initial rust-kill, Renaissance Wax (not just any wax) will keep it just fine--used by museums for swords and guns all the time.

<!--QuoteBegin-Howard@Nov 29 2005, 01:50 AM
Great work.
I like the patterns in the steel.
Perhaps soften the edges of the frag blocks with wet and dry?

Howard.

...or rub with a hammer? (Laszlo's method...)

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