Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 painted pieces

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

AFDesigns said:

I also did the grey flexible primer on my foam pieces and it didn't go well once I put the color on. When it comes to testing it for cracking apart, bending motion is inward/outward. Results I get outward just stretches no breaking and too much going inward gets wrinkles, but still no cracking.

so many trial and errors, but finally found what works for me.

steps
modpodge
white or black plasti dip (depending on the colors I'm using) spray can ver.
never really got to the last step with clear coat, but since I did the scrap piece.
I guess it will be the flexible color coat then use the regular coat to get the shiny look

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I'm going to start charting my tests and making notes of changes I'm making. Out of 12 or so different combinations of things, the only thing I've gotten to successfully flex without cracking is Elmers + Flexidip (Rustoleum version of Plastidip) + Krylon Gloss Cherry Red + SEM Clear Color Coat + Krylon Triple Glaze. Actually, it flexes before the Triple Glaze but without a shiny finish.

My Unsuccessful Tests

Mod Podge + Flexidip + Krylon Cherry Red + Krylon Triple Glaze
Mod Podge + Flexidip + Krylon Cherry Red + Duplicolor Inferno Red + Krylon Triple Glaze
Mod Podge + Flexidip + Duplicolor Adhesion promoter + Duplicolor Inferno Red + Krylon Triple Glaze

= All failed. Finish looked good on all, but cracked easily under the Glaze (which seemed to stay intact over the cracked paint at least) under even light pressure.

I did a few more tests with watered down Elmers and some combination of watered down Elmers and Mod Podge as the sealing layer. These all failed as well.

Then I started applying pure Elmers. This helped the flexibility and initial finish immensely, but still had failures.

Elmers + Flexidip + SEM Flexible primer + Duplicolor + SEM Clear
Elmers (scruffed) + SEM Flexible primer (scruffed) + Duplicolor + SEM Clear

= Both cracked, and surface was cloudy. Cracking wasn't as bad as the previous tests, and I had way too much Elmers on... the pieces barely flexed as is, so maybe I made them so thick any flexing would be catastrophic? May have to repeat these tests with adjustments.

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

DRG said:

I'm going to start charting my tests and making notes of changes I'm making. Out of 12 or so different combinations of things, the only thing I've gotten to successfully flex without cracking is Elmers + Flexidip (Rustoleum version of Plastidip) + Krylon Gloss Cherry Red + SEM Clear Color Coat + Krylon Triple Glaze. Actually, it flexes before the Triple Glaze but without a shiny finish.

My Unsuccessful Tests

Mod Podge + Flexidip + Krylon Cherry Red + Krylon Triple Glaze
Mod Podge + Flexidip + Krylon Cherry Red + Duplicolor Inferno Red + Krylon Triple Glaze
Mod Podge + Flexidip + Duplicolor Adhesion promoter + Duplicolor Inferno Red + Krylon Triple Glaze

= All failed. Finish looked good on all, but cracked easily under the Glaze (which seemed to stay intact over the cracked paint at least) under even light pressure.

I did a few more tests with watered down Elmers and some combination of watered down Elmers and Mod Podge as the sealing layer. These all failed as well.

Then I started applying pure Elmers. This helped the flexibility and initial finish immensely, but still had failures.

Elmers + Flexidip + SEM Flexible primer + Duplicolor + SEM Clear
Elmers (scruffed) + SEM Flexible primer (scruffed) + Duplicolor + SEM Clear

= Both cracked, and surface was cloudy. Cracking wasn't as bad as the previous tests, and I had way too much Elmers on... the pieces barely flexed as is, so maybe I made them so thick any flexing would be catastrophic? May have to repeat these tests with adjustments.

Click to expand...

yea it could be you're adding too much layers of glue...really shouldn't be that much hmmm just at the point it looks shiny or gloss look and see if you still feel foam anywhere.
How long do you wait for things to dry up?

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

AFDesigns said:

yea it could be you're adding too much layers of glue...really shouldn't be that much hmmm just at the point it looks shiny or gloss look and see if you still feel foam anywhere.
How long do you wait for things to dry up?

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I had four layers of glue on those tests, based on BaseZero's recommendation, but I'm unsure if he was talking about watered down Elmers or not. I've cut back to two thin layers which seems to be perfect. Gives it the finish it needs and fills in the holes but still can flex. Honestly I could probably get away with one layer here, but with two layers I know the Elmers layer is strong enough to not be brittle itself.

As for drying, with the flexible primer method I followed the instructions to the letter - guide first, can instructions second. The others I was following the can instructions. What I've started doing is just waiting a day between coats no matter what (unless it's something that demands an immediate followup).

I have a few new tests going right now that should be done in a few days. I'm taking my successful runs (or almost successful runs) and trying to tweak things to get exactly what I want. For example, I found a can of Clear Plastidip the other day and I'm going to see what happens if I drop that in in place of the SEM Clear, because the Plastidip is 6 dollars a can instead of 14 (plus I had to have the auto store special order the SEM Clear because they don't stock that color). I know it dries matte, but so did the SEM 'High Gloss' for me so I'll just follow up with the shiny glaze afterward like I did with the SEM.

Just a suggestion, but I second the idea of waiting longer for your paint to cure. I've been using a very good Rustoleum combination on some of my work, with a recommended dry time of 24 hours. I discovered very quickly that if I spray another compatible Rustoleum over the top of this before at least 36-48 hours, the layers will react with each other and ruin the finish.

laellee said:

Just a suggestion, but I second the idea of waiting longer for your paint to cure. I've been using a very good Rustoleum combination on some of my work, with a recommended dry time of 24 hours. I discovered very quickly that if I spray another compatible Rustoleum over the top of this before at least 36-48 hours, the layers will react with each other and ruin the finish.

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Yes, that has happened to me too... it sucks big time. Definitely wait 48 hours between layers... multiple paint layers can be done every 30-45 min and multiple clear layers the same but wait 48 hours to put paint on the primer and another 48 hours to put clear on the paint, etc.

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

AFDesigns said:

Hey DRG you almost had me worried because I have the same item (SEM Clear Color Coat (13003) but never got a chance to use it till today before going to work. I tried it on a scrap piece that was colored in BFM0344 toreador red met and I see what you mean by not looking shiny. I didn't experience the clear color coat dulling my red paint though. After the color coat I used regular clear coat that I got from advance auto or autozone on top of the color coat.

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I finally got the SEM Clear to look 'shiny' without any additional products. I shook the can for like two minutes and gave it what I consider to be a medium coat... just enough that it's fully wet but not swimming in it.

Oddly enough I've gotten some scraps to flex well (and have a nice shiny finish) on 2mm foam scraps with the Duplicolor.
- Pure Elmers (2 coats) + Flexidip + Duplicolor + SEM Clear
- Pure Elmers (2 coats) + Duplicolor + SEM Clear

I was shocked these pieces held their own, especially on the really flexy 2mm foam. Even more amazing is the second piece (without the Flexidip) flexed well even though I accidentally saturated it with Duplicolor (the little white part of the spray nozzle had come off and the can was just shooting a straight stream of paint). Plus I hear so many bad things about using Elmers, but it's the only thing I'm having decent results with so far. Next is to see what happens on the 5mm stuff (which is what most of suit will be made of).

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

DRG said:

I finally got the SEM Clear to look 'shiny' without any additional products. I shook the can for like two minutes and gave it what I consider to be a medium coat... just enough that it's fully wet but not swimming in it.Oddly enough I've gotten some scraps to flex well (and have a nice shiny finish) on 2mm foam scraps with the Duplicolor.- Pure Elmers (2 coats) + Flexidip + Duplicolor + SEM Clear- Pure Elmers (2 coats) + Duplicolor + SEM ClearI was shocked these pieces held their own, especially on the really flexy 2mm foam. Even more amazing is the second piece (without the Flexidip) flexed well even though I accidentally saturated it with Duplicolor (the little white part of the spray nozzle had come off and the can was just shooting a straight stream of paint). Plus I hear so many bad things about using Elmers, but it's the only thing I'm having decent results with so far. Next is to see what happens on the 5mm stuff (which is what most of suit will be made of).

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Awesome! Good to know so about 2 mins shaking the SEM clearNow you have results. no more wasting money

I've have the same problem when painting my foam structure with the cracking paint and all. I almost think I need to seal it first so my paint doesn't come out distorted, I just haven't found the right one to use yet. I have had to start over a few times after doing a few test runs but I buy my foam in bulk blocks so I had some backup! Ill share my foam stores with you if you ever need more!

Just a heads up for those who didn't know and anyone Doc still owes pieces/money/etc. to,

He was finally banned on June 13th. This coincided with the locking of the deprecated junkard forum, and his old sale thread has already been removed.

laellee said:

Just a heads up for those who didn't know and anyone Doc still owes pieces/money/etc. to,

He was finally banned on June 13th. This coincided with the locking of the deprecated junkard forum, and his old sale thread has already been removed.

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Took far to long to ban him, but glad it's been done. Sorry for all of you who have given him money. Hope you see something come from it.

Doc refunded me all money after not making any deadline....took an extremely long time of lying to me before i finally was able to give up on his bull****. She makes awesome products but took on to much and never told the truth. I was sad not to receive my suit in time for last years comicon nyc and my 4 year old sons birthday. he was so excited to meet ironman and had to settle for batman. there is no excuse for what doc has done to so many.