JFcustom's FOAM files

Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added Dancin_Fool's Iron Man MkII/III

I have to agree with JF, those seam lines are so straight and clean they almost look machined....but it is foam right??
Eager to hear how you accomplish those!
Maybe the secret is a well stocked bar??? hmmm maybe onto something here spideyman.:lol
M

Oh yes, and don't forget the well stocked bar (let me know if you find one) (y)thumbsup:thumbsup
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added Dancin_Fool's Iron Man MkII/III

JF, I was planning to use your Mark 4 templates for my foam/resin build I am starting. I am 5 ft 8 inches tall. Would the default scale on your converted Mk. 4 fit me?

Or do you think I should measure each piece to my body parts?
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added Dancin_Fool's Iron Man MkII/III

About this legitimate scaling question, the suit you've chosen is by default scaled for a 1m83 guy (6'). If you're 1m73 (5'8") and don't want to look like a squirrel in a spacesuit, you just have to compute for all file the folowing [default_scale_ratio x (173/183)] to you obtain your own scaling value.

Here the scale ratio is set to sommething like 25 ? Or whatever else, it's simply an unconcrete value that represents nothing you can mesure, but it's a value set for someone of 1m83. If you're smaller, this value must be smaller, by a proportionnal and linear factor. For a ratio of 25, your result will be near 23,64. Imput this value insted of the 25, click OK, then tweak the alignment of sheats borders by moving your 2D shapes if needed (paper templates will be smaller, but paper sheats's size remains the same, so you'll have the feeling that your templates have moved to the top left corner of the 2D view), and at last print your templates.

This is the basical way to operate. But if you know you have realy short legs and long arms, for example, you may want to take measurements on your body and specify a well matching ratio for each of your suit parts... I don't like this approach because IMO it breaks the harmony of proportions.
_______

Oh, and I'm 178, and did not rescale my mk4 suit. You may notice from pictures that it'a bit too large. I don't like a suit to constrict me as tight as a coat of paint.
 
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Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".


How to sharpen a blade.



I read in almost every thread about issues with foam clean cutting that several dozens of new blades can be needed to build a full suit. Of course we all agree on the requirement of a highly sharp blade, and the less we can say is that a supersharp blade does not stay supersharp for a long time at all.

It mustn't be a reason to replace it systematically. Only the very edge of the blade is blunt, don't waist it for such a short. There are many ways to sharpen it back. You're allowed to disbelieve : I use the same blade since april. I'm a tightwad... :D

If foam by itself is able to blunt a blade, this same foam may also sharpen it. The main trick is NOT to take an aggressive nor fierce material. No whetstone, no grindstone, no polishing Dremel tip, not event the thinest sanding paper... Something just like Death, in "Reaper man" from Terry Pratchett, is sharpening his scytheblade using wind and moonlight until it can even cut a conversation.

Here we must choose a couple of tools, that will widely depend of what you can find around you :
- a long and soft one, like the wooden stick of your sweeper.
- a hard and sleek one, for exemple the handle of a steel ladle,
An object with a circular section works better. Too flat and the blade won't press enough, too thin and it will press too much.

HOWTO :

The way you would lay down some marmelade on a toast, scrub with some wide movements each side of the slanted blade on the surface of your wooden stick. On all the length of the blade, always in the same direction. Do not press at all ! the weight of the cutter is enough. Do it lightly and tactfully. Wood is slightly abrasive, it will polish the edge of the blade. Then, do the same on the steel handle. Metal is hard and bald, it will flatten the imperfections. Do it ten times on each side with each tool, and check the sharpness on a small wasted piece of foam. Do it frequently, don't wait your blade to be worn out before doing it again.

You can also use a strip of cardboard, the side of a shoebox, an empty roll of kitchen paper,even a tissue flap... a copper pipe, the side of your desktop computer, a metal doorknob or chair leg...
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

JF!!!!!!
That is a marvelous tip.
X-acto blades cost a fortune to me. This is a nice trick.
Perhaps I'd do with bended popsicle stick. In the mean time, I'll look again for my recently broken sweeper stick :lol.
I have been told that we must hold the knife at 20 degree angle?
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Oldtimer barbers sharpen their razors on leather belts, i believe this can be utilized for re-sharpening cutter blades as well.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Yes, we can see them doing so in some western movies.
About the inclination, something between 20 and 30 degrees angle will go. Below : the tool doesn't touche the apex of the blade at all, and above : it crunches it.
_______

Oh, and by 10 times on each side, I ment left side and right side alternatively, not 10 tilmes letf and 10 times right. Just like the barbers. It's important to work on both sides in parallel.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

:thumbsup Thanks for the Tip! Really appreciate it! :thumbsup
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

wow. Awesome thread. Thanks. This will be useful for a newb like me.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Great writeup.

Does anyone know of a US supplier of the plastic clip rivets that JF used? I've been searching this morning and the only thing I can find are regular rivets or automotive push clips.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Great writeup.

Does anyone know of a US supplier of the plastic clip rivets that JF used? I've been searching this morning and the only thing I can find are regular rivets or automotive push clips.

Ill look into it... I just had to say how genius your user name is
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".


How to sharpen a blade.



I read in almost every thread about issues with foam clean cutting that several dozens of new blades can be needed to build a full suit. Of course we all agree on the requirement of a highly sharp blade, and the less we can say is that a supersharp blade does not stay supersharp for a long time at all.

It mustn't be a reason to replace it systematically. Only the very edge of the blade is blunt, don't waist it for such a short. There are many ways to sharpen it back. You're allowed to disbelieve : I use the same blade since april. I'm a tightwad... :D

If foam by itself is able to blunt a blade, this same foam may also sharpen it. The main trick is NOT to take an aggressive nor fierce material. No whetstone, no grindstone, no polishing Dremel tip, not event the thinest sanding paper... Something just like Death, in "Reaper man" from Terry Pratchett, is sharpening his scytheblade using wind and moonlight until it can even cut a conversation.

Here we must choose a couple of tools, that will widely depend of what you can find around you :
- a long and soft one, like the wooden stick of your sweeper.
- a hard and sleek one, for exemple the handle of a steel ladle,
An object with a circular section works better. Too flat and the blade won't press enough, too thin and it will press too much.

HOWTO :

The way you would lay down some marmelade on a toast, scrub with some wide movements each side of the slanted blade on the surface of your wooden stick. On all the length of the blade, always in the same direction. Do not press at all ! the weight of the cutter is enough. Do it lightly and tactfully. Wood is slightly abrasive, it will polish the edge of the blade. Then, do the same on the steel handle. Metal is hard and bald, it will flatten the imperfections. Do it ten times on each side with each tool, and check the sharpness on a small wasted piece of foam. Do it frequently, don't wait your blade to be worn out before doing it again.

You can also use a strip of cardboard, the side of a shoebox, an empty roll of kitchen paper,even a tissue flap... a copper pipe, the side of your desktop computer, a metal doorknob or chair leg...



Hey, this is a good tip, you can also use and old jeans. That's what I use for sharpening my razor.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

JF - Thanks for your files and all the great information you have provided here.

Another tip for sharpening your blade, to ensure you're doing it right and completely. Take a Sharpie marker and mark both sides of your cutting edge. As you sharpen the blade properly the marker will be uniformly ground away as well. This is a great way to check that you're getting the proper angle on the blade while sharpening it.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Thank you Catavarie, crafty tip. I quote this in the first post.
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Very interesting stuff! Thanks to all who contribute to this thread!
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added "Howto sharpen a blade".

Thanks for all the tips and tutorials.
And thanks for putting it all in the first post!

Mark
 
Re: FOAM speed-building files'n'tricks : added IM mk6.

All in the first post, I find it practical.

mizuno hadouken | theRPF (the guy with the stunning blue-Iron-Man) made me notice I had not released any foam file for the mkVI chest and brace.
Well, now it's done.
 

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