JFcustom's FOAM files
- Thread starter JFcustom
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The Ronin
Well-Known Member
The common name for PVA is wood or white glue. You mix it with water until it's a little thicker than the consistency of milk, and paint it on the foam. A few coats will leave the foam sealed and give it a nice surface that you can lightly scuff to give the paint something to stick to, instead of soaking into the foam.
Assuming that the roll of foam is smooth on the other side, that looks exactly like the stuff I used for my helmet. You're definitely looking for floor mat foam, rather than camping mat foam.
I would also highly recommend building a test fit out of paper first, before you cut out your foam, to make sure it fits. Remember that your foam is a lot thicker than paper so you don't want the paper version to fit really snugly, or your foam version will be too thick. This is a great post on how to scale your pep file: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=148889&page=96&p=3376464&viewfull=1#post3376464
I used a dremel to smooth my edges, and it worked great. Just be careful - it will sometimes "kick", and leave gouges in your foam.
I can't help with the plastidip/painting, because I just used PVA glue/water to seal mine, and craft paint to paint it (but I wasn't going for a super glossy look).
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips YRien.
I ducked out today and grabbed a roll of that foam that I linked. It is much more rigid than the other stuff I got. Actually the CA helmet made by JFC in the first post appears to be made using much less rigid foam - similar to the stuff I originally bought. It just seemed far too fragile for me though - heating it with the heat gun seemed to partially melt it - not visibly but once you cut into it it was a little sticky. Another example of the helmet further along in the thread appears much harder - I think I will feel safer using the harder foam - its what most of the examples on youtube and other websites seem to use.
Also, I will go ahead and make the helmet out of paper and tape first although I'm not too worried if it doesn't fit my head. I am really just building them as a display that I can place on some Styrofoam heads. Sort of like "trophies" I guess. For the first one though it might be a good idea to get the measurements right for my head just in case I want to venture out in disguise at some stage
. Will also get me using the resize function. The more knowledge the better.
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Thank you. How many coats of it do you use? Do you use primer before paint? I saw this thread http://www.therpf.com/f78/iron-man-mark-7-mk-vii-foam-build-new-sealing-technique-152543/index3.html and I started testing that technique. Six coats of glue and water diluted 50/50, and one straight coat. So far on my test piece, I have done 3 coats 50/50, and it is pretty smooth and shiny. I'm not sure whether more are needed or not. Oh and by the way, I am using Elmer's Glue-All.
Bogleo, if you watch this X-Robots vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDwQg6CX25A&list=UUUbDcUPed50Y_7KmfCXKohA), he coats the piece in PVA before applying Smooth Cast 65D. At 4:10 he goes into detail on the PVA stuff and then shows how to apply it. At around 6:20 he talks about why it's a good idea to use PVA before putting any other type of primer onto it.
I'm basically going to be doing the same thing except instead of applying 65D after the PVA I'm going to spray on 3 coats of Plasti-Dip.
I'm basically going to be doing the same thing except instead of applying 65D after the PVA I'm going to spray on 3 coats of Plasti-Dip.
Hey guys, quick question and this may be a simple answer. I posted this question in the Captain America thread that the helm in the first post was linked to, but seeing as it was a bit of a necro I am guessing it may not be answered.
With the CA helm, I noted a bit of a ridge running down both sides of the dome. The pep file actually has a valley fold marked at the edge of dome piece that I expect would form this ridge. However, all of the builds I have seen don't seem to have this ridge.
Can I assume that the valley fold lines were just ignored and the side of the helm was just joined to the dome edge? Or am I missing something?
With the CA helm, I noted a bit of a ridge running down both sides of the dome. The pep file actually has a valley fold marked at the edge of dome piece that I expect would form this ridge. However, all of the builds I have seen don't seem to have this ridge.
Can I assume that the valley fold lines were just ignored and the side of the helm was just joined to the dome edge? Or am I missing something?
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Hey JFcustom,
I created a model of this Iron Man suit's helmet in Blender. Here is a thread for it. Any interested paper unfolders can reply to my thread.
http://www.therpf.com/f78/iron-man-armored-adventures-helmet-228172/#post3477363
I wondered if you could unfold it for foam.
I created a model of this Iron Man suit's helmet in Blender. Here is a thread for it. Any interested paper unfolders can reply to my thread.
http://www.therpf.com/f78/iron-man-armored-adventures-helmet-228172/#post3477363
I wondered if you could unfold it for foam.
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I'd say most people have just ignored it; it would be MUCH easier to just join the edge as a smooth transition, rather than go through the work of defining that extra bevel with a back cut (especially with it so close to an edge).
Thanks Iaellee. I had spoken to someone else about this and they suggested the same thing.
I also noticed a couple of things about the design - lines are partially included for the sides of the helm as well - 1 side shows 1/2 a line and the other side shows none. Also, along the bottom it has the same valley fold requirement which none of the completed builds include. So I made an educated guess that those fold indicators aren't required (or may just be left over remnants from the unfold). I am guessing that this is the way to approach it - look at the designs/images and make your own call on whether it is required or not. There's not always a black and white answer...
P4r4dox86
Well-Known Member
Hey Dezziedc,
Being a fellow Aussie I might be able to answer a few questions you've asked. Firstly I used the Kmart foam you're talking about (one is 5mm and yellow and the other is grey/green and 10mm?) for armour previously to good effect, but I agree they aren't perfect, especially the thinner 5mm stuff which is very low density. I used the 5mm stuff for my daughters MKVII suit a couple of years back, and I used the 10mm stuff for my Iron Patriot last year. I have since moved on to using a 6mm floor matting which I pick up in rolls from either Bunnings or The Reject Shop for around $20-25, I believe I has posted pics of it in one of my other threads. This foam is a lot more dense and holds it shape better.
As for sealing I've used numerous methods including Rondo for my daughters suit, PVA and SmoothOn 65D for my Cap helmet, PVA and automotive body deadener (bitument based) for my Patriot, and I'm currently in the testing phase of using PVA and Peel Coat (similar to Plastidip) to coat my current Megazord build. They're all good for different reasons, but if you're going the PVA and Plastidip route I would definitely suggest getting a few scraps of foam and doing test sealing/painting pieces before you start putting it on your good helmet because you want to know how these things work together and how many coats of each you need BEFORE you chuck it on your helmet. I would suggest, if you're careful with your coating, you may only need one coat of PVA, 2 tops, before you Plastidip as it will only be acting as an analogue for your rubber to adhere to seeing as the Plastidip will do most of the sealing for you. But like I said, do test pieces with different levels of coats of each etc to see what gives you the effect you're looking for.
brachidpelma
New Member
j'hallucine tu es un vrai artiste
P4 thanks for the tips.
I've been into Bunnings where I live and they only have the interlocking 12mm tiles - I thought that might be a bit too thick for me to start out with (actually all the tiles I have found at different shops are exactly the same 12mm type). I will check out the reject shop this week and see if they have the rolls you are talking about. I actually grabbed that roll from clarks - bit more expensive than what you are talking about and it is fairly dense (seems much more dense than most of the foam others are using). It's worked OK so far but I'm having trouble with the joins - that might just be practice or the glue I am using rather than the foam itself, so I will just have to keep trying different things.
With the sealing I have started doing exactly what you have suggested. I've built the helmet (am waiting on some stuff I ordered online to arrive before I finish it off) and have a few off cuts I have applied the sealant to. I'm just leaving it for a while before I apply the PVA and Plastidip. Then I'll give it a couple of coats of paint just to see how it comes out before throwing it on the helmet..
Have learnt a few lessons already. The main 2 being to ensure straight cuts (the Dremel is a life saver here) and also NOT to run the heat gun over the helmet after you have glued it (especially using hot glue). Luckily I realised what was happening before I went too far with it. I also find the hot glue difficult to work with consistently - as another builder suggested I might try super glue next time to see how it works.
Overall though it's been fun. While I'm waiting for this other stuff to arrive I am thinking of starting the next one - far too many choices though. It's been the talk of the household - some positive some negative (my eldest can't believe her father is building foam armor while my youngest can't wait till I finish them!!!!).
And another thing I wanted to say was that this community is unbelievable. I'm a member of a number of different forums for a few different topics from online games to sports. Nothing comes close to this forum for support and encouragement and all round community spirit.
P4r4dox86
Well-Known Member
No worries mate, any time. I'm far from an expert but any tips I've picked up along the way I'm always happy to share.
I know many other people use heaps of different types of glue but I've always found Hot Glue to be the best for my style. Best way I've found is to be sparing with it when the actual initial join of pieces, but cover the back of the join (inside) with a liberal amount to help cement it once the initial joint has cooled. This gives added support to the join without getting heaps of glue on the outside of the piece you're working on.
With regards to the heat gun after gluing, I had that exact issue myself a while ago so don't worry. It's funny how our minds work, something called "hot glue" which melts with heat and you don't tend to stop and think that hitting it with a "heat gun" might make it all come apart lol. That being said, it can still be done to help seal your foam after it's been all put together, just hold the heatgun a decent distance away and use big sweeping passes, making sure not to spend too long on any one section. Do it multiple times allowing for the foam and joints to cool down in between. Think of it like a hairdryer and the piece is your head, and use the same actions and you should be safe.
As for the kids, they tend to love it unless they've hit the "OMG Dad WTF r u doin?!" Pre-teen or Teen years.
I know many other people use heaps of different types of glue but I've always found Hot Glue to be the best for my style. Best way I've found is to be sparing with it when the actual initial join of pieces, but cover the back of the join (inside) with a liberal amount to help cement it once the initial joint has cooled. This gives added support to the join without getting heaps of glue on the outside of the piece you're working on.
With regards to the heat gun after gluing, I had that exact issue myself a while ago so don't worry. It's funny how our minds work, something called "hot glue" which melts with heat and you don't tend to stop and think that hitting it with a "heat gun" might make it all come apart lol. That being said, it can still be done to help seal your foam after it's been all put together, just hold the heatgun a decent distance away and use big sweeping passes, making sure not to spend too long on any one section. Do it multiple times allowing for the foam and joints to cool down in between. Think of it like a hairdryer and the piece is your head, and use the same actions and you should be safe
.As for the kids, they tend to love it unless they've hit the "OMG Dad WTF r u doin?!" Pre-teen or Teen years
.
Can you put up a picture as an example? Some foams are manufactured with a little bit of texture, so when they are painted up this texture comes through and can look cool. Some paint applications will give you different texture finishes as well.
agassparkle
Member
hello there,
I was wondering if there is a foam template for an ironman gloves ? I couldnt see in the rar files.
I was wondering if there is a foam template for an ironman gloves ? I couldnt see in the rar files.
