1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You could get a transformer that you plug into a power strip. Plug as many transformers as you want into it, and flip them all on with the one switch.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

UPDATES

The LEDs are coming along. Had to cut a hole in the side of the console to accomodate the LEDs along with a pass through for the wires

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Trying to finish up the install
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Added a final coat of clear satin to the instrument panel. This keeps the pinstripes adhered to the panel and prevents minor scratches...
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What do you guys think - color or white LEDs????

More to come!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You could get a transformer that you plug into a power strip. Plug as many transformers as you want into it, and flip them all on with the one switch.

I have to cut the wires first and solder them to a plug - I'm just not sure what fuse I have to put in between the plug and the LEDs.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

It's amazing what a little lighting can do for a prop like this. Can't wait to see it all lit up!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I have to cut the wires first and solder them to a plug - I'm just not sure what fuse I have to put in between the plug and the LEDs.

You don't really need a fuse in the low voltage wires. It's not like anything will happen to speak of, even if you short them. Certainly won't start a fire or melt anything.

If you have a lot of wires to bring together for the transformer, you could just get a terminal strip at radio shack and some jumpers to distribute the power.

Here's one in service:

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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

UPDATES!!!! Enjoy!

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VIDEO! :)
http://s778.photobucket.com/albums/...sole Build/?action=view&current=VIDEO0006.mp4

http://s778.photobucket.com/albums/...le Build/?action=view&current=VIDEO0007-1.mp4

There are only 20 LEDs per line so I wanted to use them effectively. :) Also, there are only two settings - flashing and on. There are few controlers I can purchase to mix it up but that'll come later. I'm just very pleased with having found these LEDs. :)

Bad News... lots of storms coming through today and the humidity is WAY up. I'll wait it out and start the throttle housing tomorrow.

Stay Tuned!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You don't really need a fuse in the low voltage wires. It's not like anything will happen to speak of, even if you short them. Certainly won't start a fire or melt anything.

I was thinking of creating a plug for each string of LEDs. That way I can plug them in a plug strip or better yet a light controller that will allow for different options: glow, fade, blink, random, etc... A random setting would really make the console pop!

But... you're saying I can get away with just soldering a simple plug and then plug into the wall without any issues? The LEDs are only 2.99 so it's not a huge loss if they pop... :) I just remembered... dont many plugs have a fuse already in them?????

Thanks for the guidance!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I'm still considering the rockers... those took SO MUCH time to create I'm not sure if I want to take a chance. But having a flashing LED in each rocker would really look cool!

What do you guys think?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

A few more minor updates and video...

I'm painting the last of the buttons white and begun final placement of the rockers... and of course... another video... :)

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Video!


I have to get that throttle housing finished!

NOTE: The pics look bad because I turned the lights off to help the LEDs pop. :)

Stay Tuned!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

But... you're saying I can get away with just soldering a simple plug and then plug into the wall without any issues?


You've not any clue of electronics, aren't you? :love

Don't mix up mains voltage with extra low voltage!

Battery powerd devices are not intended for direct connection to the power supply system but have to be driven with extra low voltage (ELV) of an appropriate voltage supply.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You've not any clue of electronics, aren't you? :love

Don't mix up mains voltage with extra low voltage!

Battery powerd devices are not intended for direct connection to the power supply system but have to be driven with extra low voltage (ELV) of an appropriate voltage supply.


LOL! Not a CLUE! :) That's why I turn to the experts here or the net...

I know not to mix voltages... That's why I assume there has to be a resistor/fuse between the plug and the LEDs.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Trying out some new panel light ideas... I picked up some 35mm dome lenses and I'm trying out different ways to mount them to the door stoppers... I also wanted to see how they would look with the LEDs

I glued the lens to the back of the reflector - you can see the glue.

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Clear lens on red reflector
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With LEDs
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I'm going to try painting a few lenses with stainglass window paint on the front and a light frost on the back - plus other different variations.

Stay Tuned
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Lookin good! I was thinking who needs a christmas tree when u have a cockpit like this?

Hi Sleep,

Thanks! I think you're right! I'll put the presents under the console... and hang the stocking from the cockpit walls! :)
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

need that blue hue of the monitor that Han and Leia were looking at in Empire when they find Cloud City....:love
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Looking great! I preferred the all-white accent lights (the colored ones look too Christmasy to me), but you must do what you feel is right, of course. :)

As far as power goes, each set of lights uses four AA batteries at ~1.5V each, for 6V total. You could probably use a power adapter that puts out 6V DC, or use a 6V battery if you don't want to have to plug something in. (Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong.) I stuck LED strips on my wasteland motorcycle and used a bunch of button cell batteries (12V total) to power them.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Looking great! I preferred the all-white accent lights (the colored ones look too Christmasy to me), but you must do what you feel is right, of course. :)

Agreed... I'm still toying with the LEDs. I have clear lights that I will install next and see how they look. I also have red stainglass window paint that I might be able to use on some of the clear LEDs.

A work in progress! :) But I'm ready for aything...
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I changed the color LEDs to white. Believe it or not - it was NOT easy. The white LEDs are 1 mm wider than the color LEDs and they BARELY fit into the holes using the plastic bevels to keep them in place. I had to cut the tabs of each bevel to make them fit... ugh... BUT... I think the white LEDs look better.

White LEDs
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Video comparo


Stay Tuned!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Looking great! I preferred the all-white accent lights (the colored ones look too Christmasy to me), but you must do what you feel is right, of course. :)

As far as power goes, each set of lights uses four AA batteries at ~1.5V each, for 6V total. You could probably use a power adapter that puts out 6V DC, or use a 6V battery if you don't want to have to plug something in. (Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong.) I stuck LED strips on my wasteland motorcycle and used a bunch of button cell batteries (12V total) to power them.

You'll need a power supply, often called a wall wart, the kind of thing that adapts your wall plug to a skinny wire to run a low voltage device, like a small radio or many computer accessories, like a router or switch. Around here I have a box of old ones I kept when I tossed the device, but you can buy them at radio shack, generally with variable output settings for different voltages and levels of power. You'll be connecting the + and - leads from the supply to your lights.

The one in the photo below is an old Logitech wireless mouse power supply, that just happened to be the right voltage and 1 amp in power, which should be plenty because these types of LED lights don't require much power to run.

I also happened to have several packages of LED xmas lights and they all use 4 AA batteries, so that's 1.5 x 4 = 6 volts. That's the setting you'll need on the variable power supply or on a power supply you find.

To get to the wires in the battery pack, I had to remove some hot glue, then it was clear which wire was +, which you need to know. I marked it by putting a knot in it.

You'll also need to know which of the wires from the power supply are +. This can be more difficult to discover without a meter, so I just tested mine by purposefully hooking them up backwards. No light then correctly connected them and the lights work fine. So at least in my case there was no harm connecting them backwards.

Once you've sorted out the connections, you'll want to solder and heat shrink the connections.

Plug that power supply into a strip and it will come on whenever you switch that on.

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