How to plastic coat foam costume pieces

Great info! Thanks for making the vid. This will become useful. :)
Too bad that I can't get rotocasting resin locally, I could need the extra durability.
 
Get tut and idea. :thumbsup
Few tips about 65D though. It likes to delaminate if you leave it between coats too long. I woul do all or most of your coats in a row then scuff and a final coat. You can also use a heatgun or hairdrier once your done painting the resin on to level it a little better and get rid of any little bubbles that have formed from the brush action.
Just wanted to add those to help you out a bit since it looks like a nice easy quick process that should help a ton of people. Oh and 65D is perfect since it is so very flexible compared to other casting resins. :)
Again great job and thanks for sharing.
 
This is the kind of thing I was hoping someone would test out!! I am so happy to see it working too! Way to go James! I was going to get Epoxamite and try it, but I like that Finhead mentioned that 65D has more flex to it. Probably won't crack as easy as Epoxamite would!
 
Thanks Finhead - sounds like good advice. I guess when I normally rotocast a piece I'm putting the next lot of resin in the mould before the last one is totally cured, but it's a but harder to coordinate everything and film it at the same time. I actually sanded the bubbles out of the first coat before applying the second one, which probably helped it stick. Altogether I was just really happy that everything stuck to the foam.
 
Thanks for the tutorial XRobots, I'm actually working on an Ironman suit (Eva foam) and while I'm happy with how quickly it's coming together, I was a bit concerned about the texture once painted.
 
nice jobs XROBOTS . however what happen when the pva glue cracks inside layer between foam and smooth cast?.. will that cause the paint to cracks?
 
nice jobs XROBOTS . however what happen when the pva glue cracks inside layer between foam and smooth cast?.. will that cause the paint to cracks?

I don't really think you'll notice since the whole thing is covered in a shell of plastic?. The Smooth cast is bonded to the PVA anyway and the piece is quite rigid, so I don't think it would be an issue.
 
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I have a slightly off topic question could you use the 65D rotocast that you used in the video to rotocast the inside of a Pepakura helmet made of paper? I'm just looking for a more reliable option of just mixing resin and bondo together.
 
Yes for sure, that's what it was designed to be used for (rotocasting) used to be called Smooth Cast-Roto.

I have a slightly off topic question could you use the 65D rotocast that you used in the video to rotocast the inside of a Pepakura helmet made of paper? I'm just looking for a more reliable option of just mixing resin and bondo together.
 
Thing with 65D it is flexible not 100% ridged. For the foam the 65D is perfect as for paper the 300 series is far better IMO as it is ridged. For roto casting as in dry times etc they are fairly close.
 
Thing with 65D it is flexible not 100% ridged. For the foam the 65D is perfect as for paper the 300 series is far better IMO as it is ridged. For roto casting as in dry times etc they are fairly close.

Oh that is helpful to know that 300 is better for paper. I'm going to get some 65D to try his technique out and wanted to know if I could use it on the inside of a paper helmet i'm making as well.
 
I was wondering if you had tried "Rigid" versus the "semi-Rigid" that the 65D is. I use Rigid from Burman for other projects. I tested it on some foam with just some white glue first and it seemed to work out fine.

Is the reason for the semi-rigid used for its "give"?

also instead of PVA isn't Elmers White Glue basically the same thing?

This is an awesome idea. Thanks for sharing :D
 
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