My BTTF Inspired Bag V2 Page 4

I am at the home of the industrial designer now and this is what he has come up with.

He has made the end cap hollow for 3D printing. As we worked on the bits and pieces, he made suggestions that would make machining easier.

Very cool.
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Im sure your industrial designer has probably suggested it to you already, but if you need to 3d print relatively large parts (for example a 12" contoured/profiled ring), you could design it in such a way that there are four component parts which snap (and bond) together after printing. This is going to create a lot more finishing work obviously, but as far as cost and ease of printing is concerned you can play around with this method. This is the beauty of 3d printing. It is so versatile!
Because my 3d printer only has an 8" x 8" bed, I sometimes need to do this to print larger items.

Also, while I'm here... Again, I know the subject was discussed many pages back, but you can get the variable tint film quite cheap these days and run it off 12V DC. Heres a link I found...

http://shop.smarttint.com/Electrical-Wiring_b_526.html

This feature would surely be the icing on the cake after having gone to such lengths for authenticity with all other aspects.
Anyway, Great progress. Keep up the good work :)
 
Also, while I'm here... Again, I know the subject was discussed many pages back, but you can get the variable tint film quite cheap these days and run it off 12V DC. Heres a link I found...

http://shop.smarttint.com/Electrical-Wiring_b_526.html

This feature would surely be the icing on the cake after having gone to such lengths for authenticity with all other aspects.
Anyway, Great progress. Keep up the good work :)

Ohhh +1 for this idea!
 
Good news. The machinist called me on Friday and will begin turning or CNC'ing (not sure exactly how he will do this) the aluminium master for the end cap on this coming Wednesday. It begins...
 
I will pick this part up today and will be able to post photos of it and different angles.
Hopefully I can buy the lid and body material this week and get those parts form rolled this week as well. I have no idea what the cost will be here and I have just received the invoice for the end cap machine and material costs.

Then I have silicone to buy at about $70/KG and I will need no less than 15KG to mold these parts. Then there is actual product after that.

If you would like to help out in the cost, please PM me to arrange PayPal. Your contribution will be taken as a deposit and taken off the final amount of your tube bag.
 
I am at the home of the industrial designer now and this is what he has come up with.

He has made the end cap hollow for 3D printing. As we worked on the bits and pieces, he made suggestions that would make machining easier.

Very cool. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/d3ee8a78f506234b419376ce43a77ff4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/87b3f8f2a9e4fc2c89e7defa8b96c8c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/a80a36529ac9d251e76b0672b5a099ba.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Will you be getting the 3d files and if so, will you be sharing or selling them?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Im sure your industrial designer has probably suggested it to you already, but if you need to 3d print relatively large parts (for example a 12" contoured/profiled ring), you could design it in such a way that there are four component parts which snap (and bond) together after printing. This is going to create a lot more finishing work obviously, but as far as cost and ease of printing is concerned you can play around with this method. This is the beauty of 3d printing. It is so versatile!
Because my 3d printer only has an 8" x 8" bed, I sometimes need to do this to print larger items.

Also, while I'm here... Again, I know the subject was discussed many pages back, but you can get the variable tint film quite cheap these days and run it off 12V DC. Heres a link I found...

http://shop.smarttint.com/Electrical-Wiring_b_526.html

This feature would surely be the icing on the cake after having gone to such lengths for authenticity with all other aspects.
Anyway, Great progress. Keep up the good work :)

I using machined metal parts so I don't have print lines to clean up. Also, based on time, machining these parts has worked out more cost effective anyway.

Originally I was looking at 15KG of silicone, but it looks like I can get 22KG for the same price. That means I can make multiple end cap and lid molds.
 
So, the only parts of the bag that are not going to be aluminum are the handle and obviously the clear ends correct? Just curious as I powdercoat and would love to put a durable (more than paint) coating on the bag so I could actually throw it around (okay not actually throw, but use it sparingly) and not worry about destroying the coating........... but obviously plastic wont take the heat for powder.

I love the work you are doing and totally respect your time and effort! I am interested either way but I would love to get ahold of it as a parts bundle and finish it myself!!!
 
So, the only parts of the bag that are not going to be aluminum are the handle and obviously the clear ends correct? Just curious as I powdercoat and would love to put a durable (more than paint) coating on the bag so I could actually throw it around (okay not actually throw, but use it sparingly) and not worry about destroying the coating........... but obviously plastic wont take the heat for powder.

I love the work you are doing and totally respect your time and effort! I am interested either way but I would love to get ahold of it as a parts bundle and finish it myself!!!

Not quite. The only aluminium part is the reinforcement strip along the edge of the lids. All parts will be plastic. The end cap is black and clear insert will be fitted inside that.

That aluminium end cap is a "master part" made extra nice just for molding and then casting in a hard black plastic. The single lid and body parts I am having made will be rolled from aluminium for the sole purpose of having a precision rolled part that I can make a mold (molds in the case of the lid) from.

I would like to mold and cast that handle recess as a part of the lid. However, probably just the handle at this stage with me attaching the recess to the underside of each lid.

In all truth, shipping this as a kit will be cheaper than shipping as a complete item because as a kit, it can be packed into a smaller box. And all you would need is a bit of superglue (which I could include in the kit if need be) to join the end caps to the body. The decals will be included, but fitted by the end user.
 
I see. Well, I am all about savings. Im also all about putting in some of my own work! I would never have done this up as you have, but as a parts kit that I could paint and put together myself (have my own hand in completing) that would be very cool in my opinion.

I don't want to take away from what you are doing, if you decide to sell only as a completed item I fully understand. If you do however decide to sell as a breakdown kit I would really be interested in that!
 
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