My BTTF Inspired Bag V2 Page 4
- Thread starter cavx
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cavx
Master Member
Looks like only two will fit.
These body parts came out really good.
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cavx
Master Member
All of the struggle to get multiple tools to fit is kind of irrelevant now that I have found the vacuum blanket.
This sheet of silicone rubber can handle 250 degrees C and will allow me to cut the plastic to smaller sizes to get more parts out a sheet. The rubber creates the seal rather than the plastic and as a result, the plastic is not stretched thin as happens with standard vacuum forming.
Unlike the slump forming I did the other day, this sheet allows me to have the tight pulls of vacuum forming.
This sheet of silicone rubber can handle 250 degrees C and will allow me to cut the plastic to smaller sizes to get more parts out a sheet. The rubber creates the seal rather than the plastic and as a result, the plastic is not stretched thin as happens with standard vacuum forming.
Unlike the slump forming I did the other day, this sheet allows me to have the tight pulls of vacuum forming.
cavx
Master Member
Thank you. I hope to not only inspire, but to create a duplicatable system that solves the issues so many people have been up agaist in DIY vacuum forming.wow.... just wow.... the amount of work your putting into this is inspiring....
My first project on this forum was a Tube Bag (with hinged lids) and it was here that I also learned about vacuum forming. So sharing is my way of saying thank you to all the member that give so much info and my way giving back.
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cavx
Master Member
Looks like I am going to have to make the handle and recess as separate parts. Just too much unpredictablity going on trying to make that happen as one part. I have to heat the plastic to virtually melting point just to get the depth. And I have had a few blow out. Lucky the blanket allows me to keep working it.
Also I have had to increase the radius of the lids and body to fit the new larger end caps.
So I have used a spare rolled lid part to increase the radius. This means that I have had to pretty much ditch the last tool and recycle the parts.
These end caps are kicking my ass. I need to make the frame cut out larger so it does not scrape the plastic as it pulls down.
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Also I have had to increase the radius of the lids and body to fit the new larger end caps.
So I have used a spare rolled lid part to increase the radius. This means that I have had to pretty much ditch the last tool and recycle the parts.
These end caps are kicking my ass. I need to make the frame cut out larger so it does not scrape the plastic as it pulls down.
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cavx
Master Member
Progress update. Comment if you see the mistake.
Funny how you go back to where you started. I really did want to thermoform the handle recess as a part of the lids but as it turns out, I will get better details making it from separate parts.
Anyway, I am very happy with the way this is coming together. I am also redesigning the runner for the lids so that there is no load bearing on the end caps.
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Funny how you go back to where you started. I really did want to thermoform the handle recess as a part of the lids but as it turns out, I will get better details making it from separate parts.
Anyway, I am very happy with the way this is coming together. I am also redesigning the runner for the lids so that there is no load bearing on the end caps.
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Looking good man! For the plastic that you'll be using on the final bags, will it have more of a matte finish? Or is the flash making it look shinier?
cavx
Master Member
The plastic for the production run will also have a slight shine. It is called harecell and has a slight texture that is fairly scratch resistant.
I've never actually actually seen mat plastic. Even hips is shiny on one side.
If you really want a mat finish, take a cloth, wet it with acetone and wipe over the surface. That stuff will attack the surface taking any shine off.
This is the same plastic I want to use.
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cavx
Master Member
I wasn't totally happy with version 2, so pulled it apart and modded it. Still a few things to do.
I have added stepped down runners on the ends of each lid. The makes them sit closer to the Dia of the end cap. Right now I have used 4.5mm for the runner and it is a bit tight. I'll change it out to some 3mm and it should be good.
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I have added stepped down runners on the ends of each lid. The makes them sit closer to the Dia of the end cap. Right now I have used 4.5mm for the runner and it is a bit tight. I'll change it out to some 3mm and it should be good.
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cavx
Master Member
Thanks. I like it.
cavx
Master Member
I have decided to make my own tube bag done 3D lettering. The last time I made these, the yellow pigment came out translucent, even though it was supposed to be a solid colour. When I glued them on to a lid, the glue made them really transparent and you could see black through the yellow.
This round, I have mixed white pigment first to make white epoxy resin, then pigmented that yellow. So hopefully these work out better.
I know the screen used bag had painted decals. It would be nice to be able to get a reverse sticker that allows me to paint them on.
Production bags will get a sticker.
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This round, I have mixed white pigment first to make white epoxy resin, then pigmented that yellow. So hopefully these work out better.
I know the screen used bag had painted decals. It would be nice to be able to get a reverse sticker that allows me to paint them on.
Production bags will get a sticker.
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