My BTTF Inspired Bag V2 Page 4

When I watch BTTF 2, I can't help but notice that some of the props are pretty much slapped together from what ever they could get their hands on.

Spend $300 on a machined part.
Find a $10 dog bowl with the same dimensions.

Given the tube bag was a one of, maybe this is exactly what they used to make the end caps.

So going to vacuum form this tomorrow. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180605/6e6c8a4f38ca8f666b8f8bab3e508875.jpg

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I like how it came out but I really think I need to go back to female tools.

The body is made in the female tool.

The end caps and lids are done over male.

In all honesty, female tooling would work better so I will run a test with my last sheet as a comparison.
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So after a quick rejig of the tool, I have a new female tool for the lid. Notice I have moved the handle recess to be flush with the edge. This will help with plastic thickness as the plastic won't have to over stretch to take the shape.

Like the earlier version, this additional tool has a quick release so it is easy to demold.
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So after a quick rejig of the tool, I have a new female tool for the lid. Notice I have moved the handle recess to be flush with the edge. This will help with plastic thickness as the plastic won't have to over stretch to take the shape.

Like the earlier version, this additional tool has a quick release so it is easy to demold. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/8a99af3dea456e9ee6bfea5a69cb5a60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/085f4519666a0254a22407a4a200baa9.jpg

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And it needs thicker plastic, so back to make tool.

Then this happened.
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So after drawing it up (yet again), it looks like I need to reduce the body from 180 degrees (semi circle) to about 160 degrees. That gives the lids about 10 degrees more movement and a wider opening between the doors.
 
Love all of the progress and dedication to this project cavx! Any chance you'll be tweaking the end caps to a thinner taper?
 
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Love all of the progress and dedication to this project @cavx! Any chance you'll be tweaking the end caps to a thinner taper?

Thank you :)

Yeah, there are a few parts that I need to tweak and the end caps are one of them. The metal tool got hot and the plastic actually stuck during the pull. Apparently cooking oil is what I need (same principle as frying an egg) to help the plastic slip and not stick.

This is more of a proof of concept that -

A: That my vacuum former actually works for some big parts and deep pulls and
B: That this bag can be made from just 5 main parts. I'm sure my initial parts count was 13 or something, so this method has allowed me to re-design down to the 5 main parts.

So there is still windows to be cut from some clear, and based on how the handle recesses went, I will be having to form new ones. But these can be made from off cuts and do not require a full sheet of plastic.

I did the end caps individually using a full sheet per cap as a male tool. I think that if I went female tooling, I could make 3 caps at a time and actually get a better result from each part as I will be drawing into the tool, not pulling over it. With female tools, webbing between parts IS NOT an issue and as the plastic cools, it shrinks away from the tool, not onto the tool like it does with a male tool.

Of course, there is still temperatures and heating times to work out. This is 4.5mm plastic and each part took about 3 minutes to heat to a formable state. At times, I may have gone too hot as hearing creaks and groans during the pull can be a bit unnerving with this thickness and not enough heat.

The very first test on this rig a few years ago snapped a 5mm sheet of Perspex in half because it was not hot enough.
 
I've been watching this build thread from the start and I have to say that you have done an incredible job and must have some serious patience. I take my hat off to you sir!! I can't wait to see the final product and hopefully own one. Keep up the amazing work. Living down under (NZ for me) I know how hard it is for us to access the range of materials needed for such a build like this. You are a real credit to the RPF and BTTF community ;P
 
I've been watching this build thread from the start and I have to say that you have done an incredible job and must have some serious patience. I take my hat off to you sir!! I can't wait to see the final product and hopefully own one. Keep up the amazing work. Living down under (NZ for me) I know how hard it is for us to access the range of materials needed for such a build like this. You are a real credit to the RPF and BTTF community ;P

Thank you. One day I will cross the sea and explore NZ.

I came to the RPF to learn and ultimately, it is all about sharing what you have learned, so why I like to document everything and not just the good stuff. If don't fail, we don't learn, so I think it is important to document this stuff.

It is more the cost of the materials here. I have a found a decent supplier now, but even his prices have almost doubled in the time I started learning about vacuum forming in 2012.

Yeah, I have a few more tweaks to make to the tooling and I think I will have a pretty neat way of duplicating this very cool prop. As I have mentioned, it gets better once I get this vacuum forming silicone blanket as there are no failed pulls ever again. With the blanket, I can reheat under the seal and suction provided by the blanket and form a part that didn't go 100% the first time. Generally, if you do this to a vacuum formed part, you either end up with a blow out (tear) or further warping as the heat undoes the work you just did.

So my goal here was to work out how to make thick, usable plastic parts from vacuum forming instead of the usual paper thin, disposable parts we see in everyday life like food packaging. The tech is 40+ (maybe close to 60 years old?) and I really think that there is so much potential for it. The world has turned to injection molding because of the higher success rate (no failed pulls) and so I wanted to create something that was as reliable with far less set up costs that a DIYer could do. I looked into injection molding back in 2008 and a simple 2 part mold was 10 grand. Add side parts and the price almost doubled. So I needed to be making thousands of parts to just pay off the molds. This is where vacuum forming (short runs) really has potential. In the end, I think I made 150 units and therefore would have run at a massive loss. I ended up using laser cut parts and gluing them. That worked out OK because the parts were flat. The tube bag is curved and so it makes sense that this would be vacuum formed.

I have a pair of the NIKE AIR PRESSURES that came in the clearish plastic shoe box and it appears to have been vacuum formed. I studied the thing and could find no trace of injection spouts (sprews) or ejection pin marks. Yet the thickness of the plastic and the level of detail would suggest injection, but now I am really thinking, female tooled. It is also made from PETG which has exceptional vacuum forming properties.

I really want to make a clear tube bag at some point.
 
Congrats @cavx! Well done, man. Slap on the yellow "FOOTWEAR" sticker and call it a day!

Now to find a decent printer. My decal on my PVC Tube Bag cost me $88! No way would I be using them again.
I found a guy a few years back that would do a run of 50 stickers for $50. These would have been yellow mat with a peel off backing. His business is now gone.
 
I hope I don't come off as rude, but have you thought about using a thinner plastic for the end caps to get sharper pieces?
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Here are the extra bowls to make female tooling from.

I think the best way to go is to cut these down to about 55mm, then make new centre parts from MDF using the router. Yay for lots of dust.

Then mount it all together so it fits into the chamber. Maybe expanding foam might be the best way to fill in the cavity between each bowl. Not sure yet. Using cement would be just too heavy to get the tool out.
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So here is where I am up to on the new tool for the end caps.

I think it was @MitasTouch that was concerned about the end of the cap being too round. I still have to add the centre parts buy they will be the same Dia as the cut end of these bowls. The plastic will draw down and whilst it will still have a radius, it will be much sharper than the current vacuum formed parts.

The original bowl was 4.5" tall and because I made my parts in male tool configuration, then trimmed the parts back to the desired length, I ended up with a tube bag that is slightly undersized.

This tool will be female and there once I trim, I should have a Dia of 11.5" (screen used bag is supposed to be 11.5) again.

I need some bondo to fill in the centre cavity of the three bowls. MDF is fine for the rest of the tool.

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