My BTTF Inspired Bag V2 Page 4
- Thread starter cavx
- Start date
Petowalker
Active Member
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lukebrynycz
Sr Member
That looks like a Jovan one to me
cavx
Master Member
Hopefully this diagram will better explain why I want to create a "female" tooled vacuum former over the traditional "male" or "buck" tooled vacuum former.
Lets say we need to make part A which has nasty undercuts. Sure you could vacuum form over the top. Without cutting the plastic, how do you remove the tool? You can't! The plastic would heat shrink wrap over the top and the best you would have is a plastic coated part.
If you needed to make a few and needed them hollow (which is why you would chose vacuum forming in the first place), you can't do this with traditional vacuum forming unless your tool, is very complex with many smaller break away parts.
The "female" tool for this part is shown as B in the diagram. It still has undercuts and you would normally be in the same place as the "male" tool. However, with a female" tooling, it is possible to make the tool break into sections that can slide out from under the job as shown in C.
Because all the parts are contained inside the chamber, the tool can be joined to be one part for the pull and broken down for the extraction of the vacuum formed part.
Whilst none of the FOOTWEAR tube bag parts have undercuts, armour pieces (Pred Bio, Stormtrooper helmets etc) do and this is one sure way of having my cake and eating it as well.
Lets say we need to make part A which has nasty undercuts. Sure you could vacuum form over the top. Without cutting the plastic, how do you remove the tool? You can't! The plastic would heat shrink wrap over the top and the best you would have is a plastic coated part.
If you needed to make a few and needed them hollow (which is why you would chose vacuum forming in the first place), you can't do this with traditional vacuum forming unless your tool, is very complex with many smaller break away parts.
The "female" tool for this part is shown as B in the diagram. It still has undercuts and you would normally be in the same place as the "male" tool. However, with a female" tooling, it is possible to make the tool break into sections that can slide out from under the job as shown in C.
Because all the parts are contained inside the chamber, the tool can be joined to be one part for the pull and broken down for the extraction of the vacuum formed part.
Whilst none of the FOOTWEAR tube bag parts have undercuts, armour pieces (Pred Bio, Stormtrooper helmets etc) do and this is one sure way of having my cake and eating it as well.
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cavx
Master Member
Limited run at first. If there is on going interest, then a 2nd run will be made to happen.
Not 100% sure at this stage, but looking at $500 ball park figure including shipping. Shipping prices are stupid due to the size of the bag. May have to look at kit form to reduce shipping costs.
Not 100% sure at this stage, but looking at $500 ball park figure including shipping. Shipping prices are stupid due to the size of the bag. May have to look at kit form to reduce shipping costs.
cavx
Master Member
heartlikewar
New Member
I definitely will be the first in line to buy this. The price you offer it at is more than fair for all the work you are doing to make this happen! One of my favorite ideas was to carry my Nike mags in a movie screen accurate Nike bag! This is a dream come true so I thank you for making this a reality!
cavx
Master Member
Thank you. I appreciate comments like this after the hours and dollars I have poured into this project.
Here is the redrawn Tube Bag.
Attachments
cavx
Master Member
After going through all my parts to make this heater, I decided to just start again and design the unit to sit directly on top of the form. Given the heater will stay on during the pulls anyway, it make sense to have this self supporting.
The main box will be made from MDF, but I will line it with 0.6 Galvanised steel so that there is a shiny, reflective surface inside. The big hole in the middle will be for a fan to force the hot air down and also allow me to see what is happening inside. The front panel will also be hinged to flip up. I'll also find myself a perforated metal plate to go over the fan cutout.
The heating elements are halogen lights (500w each) x 4 (yes 2000 watts of power, so lucky I have a 2400 watt supply). In tests I have run, these will get hot enough to start a fire. I am hoping that magnets can attach the stand of each light to the metal liner so that I can quickly change the position of the heaters based on my requirements. Each light will also have it's own power switch so it can be shut off.
The four smaller holes will have a swing lid that can be used to vent excess heat.
Off to the board cutters now to place my order
The main box will be made from MDF, but I will line it with 0.6 Galvanised steel so that there is a shiny, reflective surface inside. The big hole in the middle will be for a fan to force the hot air down and also allow me to see what is happening inside. The front panel will also be hinged to flip up. I'll also find myself a perforated metal plate to go over the fan cutout.
The heating elements are halogen lights (500w each) x 4 (yes 2000 watts of power, so lucky I have a 2400 watt supply). In tests I have run, these will get hot enough to start a fire. I am hoping that magnets can attach the stand of each light to the metal liner so that I can quickly change the position of the heaters based on my requirements. Each light will also have it's own power switch so it can be shut off.
The four smaller holes will have a swing lid that can be used to vent excess heat.
Off to the board cutters now to place my order
Attachments
edwinfabian
New Member
Also can't wait for this run. Seriously, take my money. lol
cavx
Master Member
I installed the lights today and gave them a check over. Once happy all were working properly, it was time for the first heat test
Ambient air temperature was about 32 degrees C when this was taken.
You can see there is a piece of 5mm Polycarb behind the thermometer and that blistered because the heater was too hot.
Tomorrow will be another test with Perspex as it behaves differently from Polycarb. I will combine the vacuum system with the heater system.
One of two things will happen. Either something will break or I will make something awesome. Lets hope for the 2nd.
Ambient air temperature was about 32 degrees C when this was taken.
You can see there is a piece of 5mm Polycarb behind the thermometer and that blistered because the heater was too hot.
Tomorrow will be another test with Perspex as it behaves differently from Polycarb. I will combine the vacuum system with the heater system.
One of two things will happen. Either something will break or I will make something awesome. Lets hope for the 2nd.
Attachments
