Graflex Variations: Facts and vs. Replica

Organic Mechanic said:
It looks like a 5/8-18. Don't have a set of thread gauges at hand though.
Click to expand...

I found on TheCustomSaberShop forum it could be also a 9/16-20 tap.

In France, I succeded to mount this button on a cork of plumbing 12 mm diameter - 12 x17 :


​

It was a success for my Mara Jade lightsaber :


Mara-Jade---finale-09---protection-allumee.jpg


Now, I try to tap a stainless tube (like Graflex) to mount a red button on it.
I just prefere to be sure because these kind of tapes are quite expensives ^^
 
Sen Tabesi said:
I found on TheCustomSaberShop forum it could be also a 9/16-20 tap.

In France, I succeded to mount this button on a cork of plumbing 12 mm diameter - 12 x17 :

{img}

It was a success for my Mara Jade lightsaber :

{img}

Now, I try to tap a stainless tube (like Graflex) to mount a red button on it.
I just prefere to be sure because these kind of tapes are quite expensives ^^
Click to expand...

Just to be clear, your creating your own tube? If so, would it not make sense to use a replica button?
 
Sometimes the replica buttons are as hard to get as a real one. For all the original Graflex parts I have (glass eyes coming out of my ears:lol) I never go my hands on any extra buttons. The two I have came from buying two complete flashes and selling one without the button. I never found a ready source for them when I was looking, but I also gave up looking a few years ago so maybe that has changed.


By the was Sen, that is Awesome! :thumbsup


Avolow.
 
Well, I try do build a Luke ANH cutaway view and I don't want to cut a real Graflex flash (of course !).
I have an early folmer Graflex (with no patent) button (like in the first page of this topic) bought with my old Graflex flash and I'd like to use a micro switch under it to light on the saber cuteaway.
It couldn't be ok for my graflex saber as the used reb button is a Mid - Late vintage but it could be ok for a cutaway view with a stainless steel tube which can be a little less accurate.
And, as Avolow said, it's easy to find Graflex Replica button screws, but easyless to find Graflex Replica button with switch.
 
Sen Tabesi said:
Well, I try do build a Luke ANH cutaway view and I don't want to cut a real Graflex flash (of course !).
I have an early folmer Graflex (with no patent) button (like in the first page of this topic) bought with my old Graflex flash and I'd like to use a micro switch under it to light on the saber cuteaway.
It couldn't be ok for my graflex saber as the used reb button is a Mid - Late vintage but it could be ok for a cutaway view with a stainless steel tube which can be a little less accurate.
And, as Avolow said, it's easy to find Graflex Replica button screws, but easyless to find Graflex Replica button with switch.
Click to expand...


I see where you're coming from now. I'll take mine into the shop on Monday, and get an exact thread size for you. :cool:thumbsup
 
I wouldn't mind knowing the thread size as well. I have so many of the glass eyes (same thread) I could use them on customs for years to come. :lol

Avolow.
 
I'm afraid that I must quote "Deep Thought" here:

"Yes, I have your answer, but you're really not going to like it."

These things appear to have proprietary threading. ie. You cannot just buy a tap.

I can give you the specs though.

Major Diameter: .604" / 15.3416mm
Minor Diameter: .580" / 14.732mm
Pitch Diameter: .592" / 15.0368mm
Thread Pitch: .0365" / 0.9271mm

These dimension were arrived at by using an optical comparator on the threads of the glass eye from a "Graflex Inc." model, after failing miserably with Mics and Pitch gauges.

Short of ordering a specialty tool, I'd recommend over-drilling the hole enough to put a plastic cap inside so that you can "hand tap" your piece into the plastic. If done right you should get decent enough results.
 
Organic Mechanic, you're well equiped ^^ :)

Ouch... That's a quite bad piece of news :s

Thank you for the answer ^^

I may have a piece of chance with my plumbing cork.
I'll try to round it aind paint it into silver.
 
I want to thank everyone for posting in this thread. I'm new here and I've been acquiring the parts for a Luke saber from Star Wars, and fear I may have just received delivery (via Ebay) of one of the Frankensabers mentioned earlier in this thread. Using the photos posted here I'm convinced the upper section and clamp are original, but I think the lower tube may be a replica. The lettering seems shallow compared to the photos of the originals and the lip around the edge of the bottom plate seems smaller. It's hard to tell without another to compare it to side-by-side, but I'll include a photo of the bottom.

If it's a replica then it was weathered by a genius because it perfectly matches the level of wear and corrosion on the upper. I'll post more photos as I make progress. Any thoughts anyone?
 
Thanks for the quick reply, Sym-Cha. I just looked at the first photos in the thread and I think you're right. The early vintage Folmer Graflex looks like it does have a smaller lip around the bottom plate than the later versions. I have jumped from being mildly perplexed to really happy today because I think this is just the one I was looking for. I've got my (stupidly expensive) Exactra 20 on the way and am waiting for grips from Gino and a handful of D-Rings. Can't wait to put this thing together. Thanks again to all the members of this forum for all the research and time put into keeping everybody informed.
 
VFX Freak said:
Thanks for the quick reply, Sym-Cha. I just looked at the first photos in the thread and I think you're right. The early vintage Folmer Graflex looks like it does have a smaller lip around the bottom plate than the later versions. I have jumped from being mildly perplexed to really happy today because I think this is just the one I was looking for. I've got my (stupidly expensive) Exactra 20 on the way and am waiting for grips from Gino and a handful of D-Rings. Can't wait to put this thing together. Thanks again to all the members of this forum for all the research and time put into keeping everybody informed.
Click to expand...

Hey VFX, welcome to the forum. Glad to see someone else is traveling the road to madness right now. lol

And you're not kidding about those frackin' calculators these days. I'm still unable to say what I paid for mine out loud, that would make it real. :lol
 

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