Graflex Variations: Facts and vs. Replica
- Thread starter scottjua
- Start date
Thanks, guys. My day is now made. Now all I gotta do is find an Exactra19-20 that is ratty enough I'd be willing to gut it (and that doesn't cost 10x what a 'vintage' calculator like that should go for). ;-0. And there is something about a vintage D-ring part?
And what the heck IS a ranch saber, exactly... Lots to learn.
Anyway, think I'll keep this Graflex stock as a 'before' example and maybe convert my well used exemplar. The thing should look like it's been through the ringer, anyway, in the spirit of the original movie. Still remember thinking how cool it was that all that futuristic stuff was dirty and messed up, stained and leaking; just like it would have been in real life...
They have a saying in the numismatic community: Always buy the book before the coin.
In that spirit, if anyone can tell me what 'the book' is for this little gem - beyond just reading the boards and figuring it out by context - please let me know. I imagine there are all sort of cool references to the making of the films, the making of the lightsaber props, and fan supplemented plans going into far more detail than the original authors had any idea of doing, etc. ETC. I'm all ears.
And thanks, in advance.
Joe
And what the heck IS a ranch saber, exactly... Lots to learn.
Anyway, think I'll keep this Graflex stock as a 'before' example and maybe convert my well used exemplar. The thing should look like it's been through the ringer, anyway, in the spirit of the original movie. Still remember thinking how cool it was that all that futuristic stuff was dirty and messed up, stained and leaking; just like it would have been in real life...
They have a saying in the numismatic community: Always buy the book before the coin.
In that spirit, if anyone can tell me what 'the book' is for this little gem - beyond just reading the boards and figuring it out by context - please let me know. I imagine there are all sort of cool references to the making of the films, the making of the lightsaber props, and fan supplemented plans going into far more detail than the original authors had any idea of doing, etc. ETC. I'm all ears.
And thanks, in advance.
Joe
Those questions are both easy to answer and crazy complex at the same time.
The very basic response is this--
The ANH version has 7 grips, the exactra bubbles, and a single rivet d-ring.
The ESB version has 6 notched grips, a Kobold clip as a d-ring, a circuit board edge instead of the bubbles, mylar tape covering the Graflex logo and replaces the glass eye under the socket with a second button knob to match the one on the back.
From there it gets complicated.
For recreations of those extra parts, check out
wannawanga.com
graflexshop.com
soloshold.com
slothfurnace.com
romansprops.com
thecustomsabershop.com
Each of those shops has their specialty-- wannawanga being the best option for one-stop shopping.
If you want to use vintage parts to be as accurate as possible-- the scavenger hunt will continue. Most everything save for the original grip material is still out there, and 85% of the time, people selling them know SW fans are on the look out and prices reflect that.
As for how to stay on book-- to that, there's no easy response. The exact positioning of the grips, the types of hardware used to secure them, and the orientation of the clamp are things either still debated, or vary on-screen.
I think the two best resources would be the blueprints on wannawanga, or using google to search the RPF for threads and images relating to individual parts. "ANH Luke lightsaber clamp orientation" "Luke ESB rivets or screws" etc.
Some things are generally agreed upon (orientation of the ESB D-ring), but other things are still up in the air (rivets or screws for grips).
And the "ranch saber" is a particular graflex on display at Skywalker ranch that was refurbished with a couple details that were actually not on screen, though most people are pretty sure it was the hero saber from ESB with the mylar tape replaced with texture tape.
Again-- check wannawanga.com where you can get both the tape, and consult a lightsaber family tree infographic that tracks all the variations that you can then google up.
The very basic response is this--
The ANH version has 7 grips, the exactra bubbles, and a single rivet d-ring.
The ESB version has 6 notched grips, a Kobold clip as a d-ring, a circuit board edge instead of the bubbles, mylar tape covering the Graflex logo and replaces the glass eye under the socket with a second button knob to match the one on the back.
From there it gets complicated.
For recreations of those extra parts, check out
wannawanga.com
graflexshop.com
soloshold.com
slothfurnace.com
romansprops.com
thecustomsabershop.com
Each of those shops has their specialty-- wannawanga being the best option for one-stop shopping.
If you want to use vintage parts to be as accurate as possible-- the scavenger hunt will continue. Most everything save for the original grip material is still out there, and 85% of the time, people selling them know SW fans are on the look out and prices reflect that.
As for how to stay on book-- to that, there's no easy response. The exact positioning of the grips, the types of hardware used to secure them, and the orientation of the clamp are things either still debated, or vary on-screen.
I think the two best resources would be the blueprints on wannawanga, or using google to search the RPF for threads and images relating to individual parts. "ANH Luke lightsaber clamp orientation" "Luke ESB rivets or screws" etc.
Some things are generally agreed upon (orientation of the ESB D-ring), but other things are still up in the air (rivets or screws for grips).
And the "ranch saber" is a particular graflex on display at Skywalker ranch that was refurbished with a couple details that were actually not on screen, though most people are pretty sure it was the hero saber from ESB with the mylar tape replaced with texture tape.
Again-- check wannawanga.com where you can get both the tape, and consult a lightsaber family tree infographic that tracks all the variations that you can then google up.
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Thanks again. I'm getting waaaayyyyy too caught up in this, but I'm guessing that's a common pattern...
I will find a thread where it is appropriate to ask for more details, but you have given me a good start.
My eye for detail - based on the grand total of three of these things I've actually seen in person - has me asking one last question of the Masters:
Has anyone noticed that Graflex' that fans / prop makers possess seem to all have the clamp levers facing backward
View attachment DSC00268.JPG
While (the two) I've seen in/from a camera collection both have the lever facing forward
View attachment DSC00269.JPG
Or was that just a weird coincidence?
I will find a thread where it is appropriate to ask for more details, but you have given me a good start.
My eye for detail - based on the grand total of three of these things I've actually seen in person - has me asking one last question of the Masters:
Has anyone noticed that Graflex' that fans / prop makers possess seem to all have the clamp levers facing backward
View attachment DSC00268.JPG
While (the two) I've seen in/from a camera collection both have the lever facing forward
View attachment DSC00269.JPG
Or was that just a weird coincidence?
Yea, I suppose towards the socket is a natural feeling when you're holding a large camera but the direction is just a coincidence. It's just a tightening lever and the orientation doesn't really matter to photographers.
To me, the lever was another control thingy for a lightsaber and the trigger like mechanism should face the thumb/grips
To me, the lever was another control thingy for a lightsaber and the trigger like mechanism should face the thumb/grips
tubachris85x
Master Member
So picked this up today for what I feel was a decent price. Hasn't shipped yet, but seller claims the top-half is from an original graflex, everything else was custom-machined. I wasn't ever really looking for an ROTJ hilt but knowing how scarce these are, I felt it would be a nice addition to my collection. What do you all think? I know it's 100% accurate but I feel it's within a close and reasonable degree
more pics here from the seller: http://imgur.com/a/fzlYw
more pics here from the seller: http://imgur.com/a/fzlYw
nice score!
All the rotj vader replicas have pretty much been the same.
Only recently we found out the stunt blades were anchored inside cylinders of metal that slid inside the flash tube. the allen screws were countersunk through both the graflex and core and held it in place. Nobody has made a replica of that yet!
All the rotj vader replicas have pretty much been the same.
Only recently we found out the stunt blades were anchored inside cylinders of metal that slid inside the flash tube. the allen screws were countersunk through both the graflex and core and held it in place. Nobody has made a replica of that yet!
In the here we go again department....
Found this with a Graflex Speed Graphic camera - which is a way cool whizmo, BTW.
View attachment DSC00272.JPG
View attachment DSC00273.JPG
View attachment DSC00274.JPG
View attachment DSC00275.JPG
View attachment DSC00276.JPG
I am officially, totally, done now. I swear!
Assuming reality.., I now have two nice Graflex, and a decision to make now. Do I convert the really nice one and keep this as an example of the original? Or this one, which is nice, but definitely shows signs of wear (there is a spot on the red button where the chrome was worn/chipped off long ago, now turned dark) and keep the shiny one as the exemplar?
I know this is probably a person preference, but given how expensive these things have become, I would like to know if there are any value considerations that might inform which way I should go. Not that I imagine I'm going to sell this stuff, but my kid will eventually have to deal with the financial blowback from dads 'hobby'.
Complicating (or perhaps simplifying) the decision, it looks like the rivet on this one would be harder to remove than on the shiny one, ironically enough.
As always, thanks in advance.
Found this with a Graflex Speed Graphic camera - which is a way cool whizmo, BTW.
View attachment DSC00272.JPG
View attachment DSC00273.JPG
View attachment DSC00274.JPG
View attachment DSC00275.JPG
View attachment DSC00276.JPG
I am officially, totally, done now. I swear!
Assuming reality.., I now have two nice Graflex, and a decision to make now. Do I convert the really nice one and keep this as an example of the original? Or this one, which is nice, but definitely shows signs of wear (there is a spot on the red button where the chrome was worn/chipped off long ago, now turned dark) and keep the shiny one as the exemplar?
I know this is probably a person preference, but given how expensive these things have become, I would like to know if there are any value considerations that might inform which way I should go. Not that I imagine I'm going to sell this stuff, but my kid will eventually have to deal with the financial blowback from dads 'hobby'.
Complicating (or perhaps simplifying) the decision, it looks like the rivet on this one would be harder to remove than on the shiny one, ironically enough.
As always, thanks in advance.
lol no probs, I was just ranting
I have been around RPF and other sites long enough to know that some props will need permanent alteration to the parts, it is unavoidable, the parts will live on as a movie prop and will most certainly be treasured by prop collectors for a long time to come, and it is still a million times better then that Graflex seller performing cosmetic surgery on the flashes for no reason at all, he was probably thinking like a used car sales person, where if you buff up the car it will sell for more, but in fact what he has done will end up reducing it's financial and historical value.
Ah, something I know a little bit about. �� Cleaning a historical item is considered sort of like a rookie mistake nowadays. But there are times and trends throughout the history of collecting. Back in the 60's and 70's, people liked their silver coins shiny. Everything got cleaned. Try finding an oringianl Morgan dollar. It can be done, but it's hard.
Nowadays, cleaning is considered a good way to destroy the value of a coin - presuming it was not horribly impaired to begin with. Original surfaces are sought out and large premium paid for same.
This same advise I imagine goes well for ANY historical artifact. When it doubt, keep it original. You can always go forward. It is generally impossible to go back.
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Cabla
Active Member
First of all let me say thank you to everyone for your contributions to this great forum. I love reading all the post and seeing all the pictures on here.
I have a Graflex that I am now questioning after reading through this thread. I bought this on the bay probably 5+ years ago. I haven't really noticed before but after putting this in different lighting I noticed that the finish on the bottom half looks different depending on what angle you look at it. I'm 99% certain that the top half is the real deal, but do you guys think that the bottom half is a replica or maybe just from a different or newer version? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have a Graflex that I am now questioning after reading through this thread. I bought this on the bay probably 5+ years ago. I haven't really noticed before but after putting this in different lighting I noticed that the finish on the bottom half looks different depending on what angle you look at it. I'm 99% certain that the top half is the real deal, but do you guys think that the bottom half is a replica or maybe just from a different or newer version? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Cabla
Active Member
Thank you very much guys. I do feel better knowing that at least it is real. I do wish that I had a matching set though. I wanted to keep one of these pieces of history in its original condition. That is another reason that I am glad there are people like Roman that are making awesome replica's that I won't mind making into lightsabers.
CrankyScorpion
Active Member
Hello all. This is my first time posting. Thanks for all the information and contributions on this threat, it's been a lot of help. I just got a Graflex front and clamp on eBay, and I'm wondering if they're genuine. They're both really clean and don't look to have been used much. Could be they're just really clean, but I'm also concerned about the inside of the clamp lever, which is rounded instead of rectangular like I'm used to seeing. Can anyone help with this? Thank you in advance.
CrankyScorpion
Active Member
They were different listings but the same seller.
