1/24 X-Wing near 100% from scratch

Moska · Dec 31, 2011

eagle1 said:
Absolutely stunning work Rafa. Each piece is a work of art, I'm blown away by how crisp & precise your work is. How you did that Essex part is just mind-boggling, knowing just how small this part really is mate!.:love

Great start to the 8-rad part Rafa. If your'e not happy with your final scratched part, don't buy the kit, I have a spare I can give you. Of course, I think you'll be able to pull it off.

It is an honor Sir to be viewing this amazing build, from scratch, with not one resin part to be seen.

Stu

Stu. Many thanks for your kind words and for your offer on the 8-rad part.

You live in New Zealand and I live in Spain… uhmm… that's exactly at the other side of the world…
Hey, Stu. Look just below you, between your feet. There, a little further down is where I am.:lol

Now seriously, I think the shipping charges may be overkill for only a small piece of plastic.

And the honor is mine to get the kind interest and collaboration from people as talented as you are.

thumbsup

Rafa

eagle1 · Jan 2, 2012

The praise is well deserved Rafa, only the brave take the route your'e going down.

Postage costs for the one part are not that much mate, if you need the part, it's yours, I can cover it, no problem.
Stu

Moska · Jan 2, 2012

The part of the 8-rad Panzerspäwagen completed.

For to get the details on the four corners of this piece, the rounded pieces with bolts, I used a simple technique that allows me to copy small details like these quickly and avoiding the use of resins or other chemicals.

First I make a single detail taking care of its accuracy, and stick it on a flat piece of styrene. I also do some Milliput putty balls and let them dry for 1 or 1.5 hours. Then I impregnated with talcum powder both the master's and Milliput balls to prevent them from sticking and I press the putty balls against the master to capture the details, getting a negative mold of the piece. Once the putty has hardened completely (+ / -24 hours), I use plastic rods extracted from the sprues of any model kit and heat up one end with a lighter flame. When the plastic is very liquid, I firmly press the end of the rod against the inside of the mold and wait a few seconds for the plastic to cool before lifting the rod. This way I get plastic copies of the detail I want and just need a little sanding to get a crisp outline before slicing off the detail of the rod.

I hope this little tip can be useful for some of you.:cool

eagle1 said:
Postage costs for the one part are not that much mate, if you need the part, it's yours, I can cover it, no problem.

Stu, thanks again for your kindness. I think my piece from scratch will do the job well.

Thanks for looking.

Rafa

eagle1 · Jan 2, 2012

Ha, yeah, that 8-rad part will do fine Rafa, awesome job.
I knew you'd pull it off anyhoo mate, piece of cake really:lol.
Stu

crackerjazz · Jan 2, 2012

Very, very inspiring, Rafa. This is really amazing. Thanks for showing us step-by-step.

greeble_gremlin · Jan 3, 2012

Wow!

Your scratch building prowess (and patience) is amazing

Nice work! :cool

Moska · Jan 4, 2012

Hey fellas.
Thank you very much. Your kind words really encourage me to continue my efforts.:cool

Today I finished the second part of the Harrier. Again I used the "skewer technique" to connect the eleven small pieces that comprise it (maybe this time a little extreme).:behave

Thanks for looking.

Rafa

crackerjazz · Jan 4, 2012

Excellent job! Can't help but give a comment everytime you post something, Rafa. Wish I could see what tools you use and how you do it. I'm glued to this thread.

Moska · Jan 5, 2012

crackerjazz said:
Excellent job! Can't help but give a comment everytime you post something, Rafa. Wish I could see what tools you use and how you do it. I'm glued to this thread.

Hi Crackerjazz.
As always, thank you very much for your interest and I am very happy that you find useful my little tricks.

My tools are simple, no expensive or sophisticated machinery here. Of course, I have my little treasures, which are nothing special, but I use them quite often and am used to them from long ago.:love

In future posts I will try to show my favorite tools and how I use them.

My best wishes,
Rafa

Moska · Jan 9, 2012

Building the base of the droidstrip, the piece of the Scharnhorst.
Some circular parts, like the pieces of the Yamato, I do using my mini drill for lathing.

Thanks for looking.

Rafa

atom · Jan 9, 2012

OMG!

You are a magician!:cool

Very impressive.:thumbsup

Eagle Man · Jan 9, 2012

Awesome work sir

keep it up

3d-builder · Jan 9, 2012

Excellent work Moska !:thumbsup

Moska · Jan 17, 2012

Hello guys.

Droidstrip is complete. After so long planning and construction, it's a really special feeling to finally hold it in my hands.

The first stage is concluded. Next up: the backplate.

Hey Atom-san, I paid special attention to the inclination of the Ticonderoga piece that you and Lord Tox detected. Thank you very much for such a good job.

thumbsup

Thanks for looking.

Rafa

atom · Jan 17, 2012

Hi! Rafa-san!

The great achievement that you accomplished makes me happy!

Very very impressed.

Compared to your work what I did was only copy and paste of vintage kits.
You made all the part from styrene sheets.
It is a skill of God.
The force will be with you always.:thumbsup

MonsieurTox · Jan 17, 2012

Hey Rafa, why pay expensive kits when you can do everything by yourself ? That's the question I am wondering right now lol I without a doubt dont have your skills though, great work my friend !

Moska · Jan 17, 2012

Atom-San, MonsieurTox ... Believe me, I would be very happy if I could buy all the kits I need for my projects.
My health, my nerves and my eyecare would appreciate it.:lol

Thank you very much for your kind words and for your support of my work.:love

Rafa

Scott Graham · Jan 17, 2012

This is so impressive. True scratchbuilding. Wow!

Moska · Jan 20, 2012

Hy friends.

I'm already working on the backplate, but I'm not sure about a step. :confused

Can anyone tell me the right way to cut the Panther part?.

I hesitate between two options: Cut horizontal or vertical.
To clarify this, these two images show the horizontal cut is green and vertical cut is red.

If I make the vertical cut (red), the resulting piece will be about 1 mm. higher than if I make the horizontal cut (green).
Can anyone clarify my doubt?

Thank you very much in advance.

Rafa

atom · Jan 20, 2012

Moska said:
Hy friends.

I'm already working on the backplate, but I'm not sure about a step. :confused

Can anyone tell me the right way to cut the Panther part?.

I hesitate between two options: Cut horizontal or vertical.
To clarify this, these two images show the horizontal cut is green and vertical cut is red.

If I make the vertical cut (red), the resulting piece will be about 1 mm. higher than if I make the horizontal cut (green).
Can anyone clarify my doubt?

Thank you very much in advance.

Rafa

Hey! Rafa-san!

I did the vertical cut (red). I made the comparison pic. Please look.:thumbsup

If you cut a sherman horizontally, the decrease in height of the sherman may have an influence to the positioning against shiden.
I mean, If you adopt the horizontal cut (green), the height of 1/72 Sherman will be different from the original .
Anyway I think that ILM adopted a easy way, the vertical cut was more easier way to cut sherman than horizontal cut. Don't you think so?:lol

1/24 X-Wing near 100% from scratch

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