SS Buck Rogers Starfighter

Craig, I will be using brass tube. I would like to drill them in but I am not sure there is enough clearance to do so. Therefore they will probably be glued in place.

Not sure about my colour, I could spray a thinner second layer with white added...not sure yet.
 
Craig, I will be using brass tube. I would like to drill them in but I am not sure there is enough clearance to do so. Therefore they will probably be glued in place.

Not sure about my colour, I could spray a thinner second layer with white added...not sure yet.

I drilled holes for mine, but I used an pencil adaptor for my Dremel. Even then you have to be careful. An air bubble in the resin near the surface caused the drill bit to wander to cause damage. Nothing a bit of putty couldn't fix, but it was a pain to make it look like it did originally.

TazMan2000
 
Since the thread starts very abruptly: what's the origin of this model? Is it a copy of the studio original (there are ready built copies sold of that on other websites), is it a new build?
 
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So whilst looking at my snowspeeder build I noticed the colour seemed pretty much like what I wanted for this build so I gave it a test spray and it looks pretty spot on.
 
Jedimaster,

Thanks for the photo update. I've just done basic prep on my kit (Wash in soap and sanded seam lines.)

It looks like the tips of the laser cannon have been shortened.

The tips of my cannons are slightly misshaped. One cannon looks like it curls upwards ever so slightly.
Any recommendations for correcting? I've thought about heating it up, but not sure how that would work out. I've also thought about sanding it to look pointier.

Where did you get the pilot?

Thanks!

Craig
 
Jedimaster,

Thanks for the photo update. I've just done basic prep on my kit (Wash in soap and sanded seam lines.)

It looks like the tips of the laser cannon have been shortened.

The tips of my cannons are slightly misshaped. One cannon looks like it curls upwards ever so slightly.
Any recommendations for correcting? I've thought about heating it up, but not sure how that would work out. I've also thought about sanding it to look pointier.

Where did you get the pilot?

Thanks!

Craig

Hi Craig. As you can see my "Points" snapped off in shipping. Was a clean break though and will be glued back on. Firstly which kit do you have ? The early one from the start of this thread or the more recent Timeslip one? These fighters are notorious for bowing on the cannons. They de mold ok but it happens much later. Never leave them leaning on something as room temperature during the day, and the weight of the solid casting. Can cause them to Bow. It's the nature of resin. But the good thing is the same can be applied to fix it. Boil some water..... Let it cool down for about five minutes then Place the cannons in the water for a minute or so. Then straighten the cannon so they are both even. Now tape them together tightly, so as they cool down they stay where they are.

I have a smaller model with the same issues because it's also a solid casting. For anyone else who gets one I would suggest putting on a stand straight away to work in as for the Pilot mine was a kit from the start of this thread so it came with one already.
 
Hi Jedimaster,

Thanks for the advice on the cannon. I'll give it a try!

Timeslip sent me the Starfighter last April. No pilot included. One of the points snapped off as well.

Craig
 
Hey,
Anyone have the older reference pics that used to be on this thread?
Or good photos (not screen caps) of an original miniature?
thanks,
L
 
Jedi, great minds think alike. I was musing over this as had not found a colour I like. Then it hit me that they woud have sprayed a colour that was used in Star Wars because it worked on screen So sprayed a bit of Tamiya Insignia white ( the colour used by Steve Dymzo as a base for the Deagostini Millennium Falcon ) and it looks about spot on. Will spray the ship and decide but it looks good as a starter.
 
Universal Hartland tended to correct for the bluescreen process by painting their miniatures with more of a yellow-ish hue. The Concorde from Airport '79 was downright Crayola yellow. This color helped to separate the model from the bluescreen in optical as well as preventing "blooming" (where a pure white model would seem to glow or be overexposed). I've seen bits of real Starfighters and the beige color is nasty. Insignia White is probably a good shade for the Starfighter if you are going for the "as I remember it looking when I watched it on TV" look. Alternately, you could split the difference and use Tamiya RACING White spray. It's a more subtle beige. (And coincidentally, it's a dead match to the paint used on the miniatures in "V" - which wind up looking white on screen too.....)

Gene
 
I am planning on soon starting my Starfighter kit that I purchased years ago but I have a couple of questions about the kit I was hoping someone may be able to answer. When I originally purchased the kit it had the solid engines. I later purchased the hollow engines when they became available, in addition to the new canopy that was offered.

1. The hollow engines do not have the detailing near the base. Is this detailing supposed to be cut off the old solid engines and applied to the new ones?
2. Also, the hollow engines has some details that are placed in different positions than the solid ones. Is this a correction to the solid ones?
3. The star piece that is in the exhaust was not included. Are these supposed to be scratchbuilt or is there an existing piece that is to be used?
4. The new canopy that was offered separately is narrower than the kit included one. There are what appear to be some sort of guide rails on the fuselage on either side of the cockpit. I assume these are there to help with the original canopy placement but they seem to interfere with the placement of the new one. Do these rails need to be removed to install the new canopy?
5. The decals that came with the kit are made by JT Graphics. There wasn't any decal placement guide included. Has a placement guide been released since I purchased mine or do I need to contact JT Graphics about one?

Any information would be most appreciated. Thanks.
 
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