ZF-1 BUILD UP problems and questions

Hello, I have started a thread as some of you received our zf armature frames!
For those who would just like to browse , please feel free to comment and add as you like!

This thread is strictly related to the products that Glenn, (zombie killler ,) Lewis (LDR) and myself have design and made.
I cannot guarantee the build up to any other zf available or scratched build, obviously!

The thread is also intended for problem solving and adding opinions and suggestions you all may have, as it is safe to say, there has NEVER been a thread here like this, so NONE of us know exactly how the buiild is!
We can only guide to the parts we built, which BTW are the closest thing you will ever see.


I will start with the frame:
The armature has been cut in a laser table, if anyone has seen one of this before , the bottom of whatever you are cutting sits amongst steel burnt out prongs!
these scratch the bottom of the alloy, so scratches are likely to be seen in all parts, as much as i would like to say , i ordered with instructions for least scratches as possible , there will be scratches.
hopefully we try to put the scratches towards he area not seen, most of these scratches come out with medium sandpaper or emery tape, followed by wet paper , finally alloy polish, turn out like a mirror!

So first up , clean all your pars from debris, if any, splatter or scratches.
sort out what will be covered by the pod, etc.

First question i had was the assembly of the lift bars with the screws.
I think by memory only 2 went out without assembly as i reorganised the box for shipment, so here is , for example the right fram and right lift bar:



for the left WHALE plate, assemble the opposite way


for the actual 2 part lift bar again right side , and invert for the left.
I am pretty sure all lift bars were counter sunk to allow the head of screw, to sit as close to the frame as possible.
It is important that you notice which side the plates go.



not sure if this is clear enough but , lets start with the questions or comments!!!
Mars

That's perfect! Thank you.

What about the crossbar tube. Where does that go?

Any ideas about the paint? Looks like they just dabbed heavily thinned paint with a small brush. I guess I could try sponging watered down acrylic.

Props to Art for these rad pictures!

give us a little time before you put any holes for the cross bar!
we need to fix the location of the rear shocks first, we will be testing that out very shortly mate!
just keep that with you , separate for now.
thanks for the pics!!
mars

nice thread

here's where mine's at... some assembly required



That's an ICS/cybergun AKS74U airsoft BTW

yea turns out i need to chop my pod back in half since I apparently formed it together a bit too narrow for the frame hah. but now it gets to be assembled with the plates as a guide for perfect fit so thats always a good thing

Does anyone have any thoughts on replicating the paint job on the aluminum parts, as seen in the above photos of the real deal?

It looks similar to a technique I've used in the past... could try shooting it with black and as it is still wet use a plastic bag to wipe off some of the paint. it takes a little trail and error but it should come out about the same...

MattMunson said:

Does anyone have any thoughts on replicating the paint job on the aluminum parts, as seen in the above photos of the real deal?

Click to expand...

Looks to be sponge. The 'fisheyes' on the guide rails were probably caused by loading the sponge with thinner and daubing the areas to lift the paint where they deemed to have too much black coverage.

From sceen grabs I originally thought it was some sort of hammerite paint - but the closeups pics definitely look like it's been appled with a sponge.

agreed i'd say black ink with a sponge.

I just sprayed some blue on the alloy.
I got some marking fluid, not sure as to the brand , as i got it from my machine guy friend, but seemed to green rather than blue.
I got some clear blue, brand name is HOBBY COLOUR
number 93, mixed with automotive gloss 2 pak laquer!
I think i went too many coats as it turned out a bit dark
ideas ...? questions???

Mars

looking at griefboys pic above , the rear of the nozzle seems green rather than blue, that is similar to the colour i got from my marking fluid,

The colour looks pretty near spot on to me. I think you are right about too many coats making it too dark. Great job on the weathering. You've made up my mind to do the weathered version now

Re: ZF1 BUILD UP problems and questions

I know there was some discussion about the layout and sequencing of the lights in the research thread - but I really don't think it needs anything more complicated than a 555 timer and a decade counter (and some resistors transistors etc).

I had a jaycar kit (an Australia/NZ version of radioshack) #KJ-8066 left over from another project. I replaced the LEDs on the board with screw connectors so I could mix and match the outputs. And, after some LED resistor calculations, and some drilling, and some soldering, and some replacing of a couple of blown transistors I ended up with this:

zf_sight_leds.mov - YouTube

The timing here is 1 1 1 3 4 (which adds up to 10 - hence the decade counter).

If you step through the clip you can see a couple of frames where it looks like 2 sets of LEDs are on at the same time - this is because 1 set turned off then another set turned on during the time the "shutter" was open.

You could use a programmable controller - but you'd still need transistors to switch the LEDs since there wouldn't be enough current to run 6 LEDs at a time from the outputs.

Also - I'm pretty sure there's only 1 LED in the centre. If you look at this grab:

http://www.b26354.co.nz/zf1_front_sight6.jpg

you can see the centre light turned off halfway through the frame. Centre light could have been made brighter that the rest of the lights though which could account for it appearing bigger when it's fully on.

Speaking of brightness - these LEDS don't seem bright enough - especially if the're behind a diffuser so I'll grab some brighter ones to test...

That's great!! what voltage does it need to run?

Look sgreat Jon... awesome work.
you got some progress shots yet of the frame?
mars

MattMunson said:

Does anyone have any thoughts on replicating the paint job on the aluminum parts, as seen in the above photos of the real deal?

Click to expand...

I looks a bit like they used a variation of this technique:

Airbrushing - Water Drop Effect - airbrush or spraypaint - YouTube

SurferGeek said:

I looks a bit like they used a variation of this technique:

Airbrushing - Water Drop Effect - airbrush or spraypaint - YouTube

Click to expand...

Excellent link. Thanks