ZF-1 BUILD UP problems and questions

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

This is for the right side . Lift brackets go on the inside and as shown, invert for left side

Order from inside to out screw , metal washer, lift bracket, metal washer , plastic washer, metal washer, plastic washer , whale plate , lock nut! Must be this way as it is calculated for measurements. Invert for left side

Upper shown left side here,
From outer side:
Screw lift bracket , plastic washer, sight bracket , lock nut
Invert for right side

Replace exactly as you have the original top plate with the new top plate and secure to side plates and whale plates

Next smoothen up as much as possible under the front pod without compromising strength.
Make it as round as possible

This next step takes time.
Carefully 1 mm at at time shave the alloy top plate to get an almost perfect fit to your pod.
On mine I left a lip but this should not matter if you

These tabs were left originally to secure the shell , I have however cut off the rear for something else that I will show in the next couple of weeks.
In your case do not cut these yet

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

Next present the rear plate for test fitting

This may vary a little but I removed 15mm off the rear of the TOP plate as it is too long

Rear plate goes underneath top plate

Over lap the rear plate by 3mm past the rear upper strut block as shown and temporarily clamp the rear plate

This took a little while to measure up but not hard.
I drilled and secured the rear plate to the top plate, if you are not sure ATM just leave it clamped

Make sure it is all straight

This was very difficult to work out when I did the laser and professional bending so this has to be adjusted a bit.
The cutting of the top plate will give you a very close guideline to where the rear plate last three holes should reach so bend this like the following

In relation to the whale plates

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

Back to the pod, clean as much of the rear as possible ,

Again as all pods will be different shave off the alloy whatever you need symmetrically so you get a very close fit

This angle may also have to be adjusted.
Now once the pod fits I would secure the rear plate to the top plate .

Next screw the two rear shock mounts to rear plate

I removed a little material off the top of the rear shock mounts so they would not hit the pod

Lower support bar and rod goes between the last two holes , make sure the rear plate is secured and correctly fitted as shown prior to drilling these

Glen was going to try and see what else we could do as this screw is not screen accurate but unfortunately it has to be here.
Now you can wait or do it this way like on mine.
I drilled and tapped either a 3 mm or a 4-40 cap head to hold the rear plate to the whale plates as there is no other form of attachment

Cut and shape a piece of wood to fit inside the rear shock mounts, fibreglass or screw to pod and cover screws like I have

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

Time to check for these points

Position of pod

Position of pod

Pod sits very stable as there is minimum gap and the rear wood block although it will be bolted to the two upper holes found in the rear shock mounts, does not move at all ATM and its not attached

think for this you are going to want it like mine.
Screw the rear eyelet that came in the screw bag to the rear shock part
Assemble as shown

Although superglue will hold these in place they will eventually pop, so tapping and putting a 4-40 grub to lock cylinder and piston head will be best

Naturally drilled on the bottom

I put a washer and screw that slides easily inside the shock.
Then I bought the following US made springs , these work perfect

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

So assembled should look something like this.

We will assume that the sight is assembled

So assuming that the sight is assembled find the height and level the sight until it matches screen grabs .
Before drilling the shocker holes in the sight brackets make sure the shockers are fully extended and support the sight.
I did pullout and stretch the springs a little too prior to assembling.

Once the position of the sight is found drill the sight brackets and hook up the shockers

Now it's time to tweak and fit the sight into position .
At the start my sight closed too high
So I grind the whale plates a little so the shocker would lower

I removed about 5 mm of this curve so he shocker end would lower

Droidboy · Feb 4, 2013

And that my friends is what I have. I'll try to clean the text up a little bit later.

LDR · Feb 5, 2013

my god! i've got tonnes to do yet!

Thanks for uploading all of this Droidboy, and thanks Mars for taking the pics.

There is one huge task ahead of me!

KramStaar · Feb 5, 2013

Heavens above, seeing the breakdown like this makes me realize the insane amount of work that's gone into building this prop.

Truly humbling…

Highest regards

MARK

Droidboy · Feb 5, 2013

I think I'm going to go ahead and completely break mine down now that I have a pretty good feeling about how it all goes together and paint the frame black and sponge it. That way the second time I build it it's the final time.

Now to paint the pod.

Gregg

Zombie Killer · Feb 5, 2013

Gregg , to be honest i would build it all up and get everything right and then strip it down and paint it. Your going to stratch the paint no matter how hard you try not to. My plan is build it, strip it down, wet sand all the plates to get rid of scratches and then paint and reassemble.

marsattack · Feb 6, 2013

To change things a bit , how's this?

I told a good friend about a possible plaque for this ZF.
He emailed back a kickass set of possible suiters!

I love them all but he has suggested only one that would work well due to the wording , these are to be machined out and will look 3D.
Either shapeways or CNC alluminium , still not sure

Regardless there is no doubt you would all agree that he has done an amazing job!!

on this one and the first rendered one the gun is embossed or debossed!! I really dont know other than its the opposite to the rest!

ahoudini · Feb 6, 2013

OMG! These are beautiful! But how to choose????

BTW, thank you Marcel and Droidboy, so much, for the latest pics and instructions. Time to get cracking again!

marsattack · Feb 6, 2013

No problems mate!

LDR · Mar 5, 2016

Its been a while....but hopefully someone can answer these questions please:

1. Shocks on gun barrel:

On the front end is there a nut on the inside of the barrel, or is the end of the shock just screwed into the ring and barrel?

2. Sight

Mars and Droidboy seem to have different order for the sight parts. Should the top metal bar of the sight be inside or outside?
When i received the parts this arm was outside (which means the countersunk hole is correct), where as Droidboys is inside. Which means the screw doesnt fit into the countersunk hole.

3. Rear sight shocks

What size screw and washer are used here? I think i have the right screw but the wont fit the washer. So thinking i might have the wrong washers on the frames!

Any help would be much appreciated guys!

Cheers
lewis

LDR · Mar 12, 2016

Anyone?

marsattack · Mar 12, 2016

Sorry mate
Yes it's been a while
1: once the barrel and gun is assembled I would mark out where the rod is level after securing the barrel ring of course .
Mark out and drill the holes
You can either tap the hole with the correct tap and screw it right in or make a hole big enough so the rod goes through and attach the nut however this will be difficult to hold
So I would go with the first.
You would still need a bigger hole on the barrel as the bolt is longer than the barrel ring

2: ok this one I don't remember
Maybe kurtyboy can assist as his pod was shipped out last
I don't have mine assembled but the sight rod will give you the distance and work backwards

3:if you have lost the washers then any washer that can push and compress the spring will do
The washer is held by the screw and is wide enough to push the spring and small enough to travel inside the shocks
Hope this helps mate
Mars

LDR · Mar 13, 2016

Thanks Mars, thats perfect!

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How are people coming along with these?

ahoudini · Mar 13, 2016

Um, really slowly?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2kdime · Mar 23, 2016

Anyone got any pointers or ideas on the electronics "lens"?

Ive got this 1/4" acrylic I've sanded, doesn't look too bad.

Were you guys blacking it out at all?

marsattack · Mar 24, 2016

i think this thread will be rekindled when these are ready....
red tubes are getting anodized next tuesday , here is the setup

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I have been trying to do these but it seems like such a waste as its hidden between the frame and plastic!!
maybe we should of done it outside everyones frame

ZF-1 BUILD UP problems and questions

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