ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

Actually, if you have your old Denix, if its not too much trouble, would you mind digging it out and taking a quick picture or two of some of the modifications you've made? Things like modding the under barrel screw port and adding a tab I would have no clue how to do on my own, and while I do have a MR Elite Edition to go off of for accurate frame details and dimensions, seeing how you talked yours might go a long way.

Its at times like this were I sish I didn't sell both my MGCs back in the day (even though I was in a spot where I desperately needed the money); but that's life, I suppose. I still have a plastic MGC c96, but its unmoddable for a blaster. Just hope Scott gave it a good home. :) Maybe I'll start looking for another in the future?
 
Yeah; I've seen that thread and commented, but its been quiet for a week or so ever since I've last posted in it. Still eyeing it every day or two now though.

(Also, quick question; what's the best place to get a Hawker Tomtit Cylinder/Pushrod kit nowadays? Reademodel's website no longer seems to be up and running, and I'd rather not spend 40-$60 buying them from DEC (all I need is a single pushrod, actually. I have machined ones, but I'd rather use an original if I could help it - one of my pushrods snapped.)
 
Another day; another Denix. :rolleyes

Currently spending my time working on blending out the trigger guard's angles to more closely match an actual Mauser's (the Denix has them just shoot straight in to the body, while an actual Mauser's tapers at an angle).

Also did some work on reshaping the once bulky trigger into something a little more pleasant. Sanded as much as I dared:

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Can’t get the trigger the correct curve shape by sanding only. You must tighten your sphincter and bend it over a mandrel! It’s the only way to get the right shape... if you dare! ; )

And when you tighten it... tighten it hard!
 
Yeah; I know that getting it accurate would mean filling in the existing hole in the trigger mechanism with solder and redrilling it closer to the front; adjusting the cocking mechanism.

But this is about as good as I'm willing to take it; I'm afraid I just don't have the tools or the confidence to try that (note that I have tried bending a Denix trigger in the past and it snapped clean in two - it had a pretty good air pocket right in the middle). I have actually tweaked the internal lever that pivots against the hammer so that the trigger can lean further forward than it normally does, but that's my limit.

The trigger also is sitting further forward in my first picture because the gun was disassembled; this is about how it sits when everything's screwed and pinned together:

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That is correct. You need to move the pivot whole point a bit and modify the internal sear A little to allow the hammer to drop. you cannot bend it very much or quickly. I basically put it over a mandrel and hammered it slowly and if I recall correctly I even heated it up a bit but these are risky maneuver‘s

You can solder a bit of material to the tip but again, you really need to be careful you don’t melt the entire piece
 
Hi, I wonder if there's anyone out there with enough patience to help a relative noob. I'm just in the process of painting up a resin blaster (I know, heresy!). I thought I knew the dl44 more or less inside out, but I've been sourcing reference pics and lately have been seeing more shots of the ANH with a silver flash hider. I always thought the ANH had a black, but worn hider, and the silver started from the ESB.... anyone have any advice as to what finish I should be aiming for?
 
For me, I’d aim for a tarnished silver color overall.
You can add splatter streaks from the holes with a bit of dry brushing or spunge painting for a “blast” effect.
 
I always thought the ANH had a black, but worn hider, and the silver started from the ESB.... anyone have any advice as to what finish I should be aiming for?
Some photos are from before filming, some from during production and some from after. There are theories about parts of the gun being painted at least once, but it is difficult to tell. Therefore I don't think that anybody can say with certainty that there is one correct look. Each builder makes his/her interpretation.

In some photos, the flash hider is more of a grey/brown, but those photos are believed to have yellowed over time so I would say that it is was actually dark grey — bare steel that has been subject to the elements. I have been able to get a grey finish on a repro steel flash hider by submerging it in hot vinegar but I had to treat the grooves and dimples with "gun bluing" fluid to make them darker like in the photos.
I believe the silver flash hider in ESB was chosen to resemble bare metal because the previous one was, but that they used a much silvery tone of metal paint because the original was not available to compare with. The gun and all its parts had gone back to the gun rental company Bapty's after filming of ANH.
 
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Alright; I'm impressed. Tried reshaping my own Denix hammer, but it didn't turn out anywhere near as good as this. If anyone has a good tutorial on how to get it looking this nice that'd be cool. :)

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I took a triangular file (like a little one) and just laid it in one of the grooves, tilted to one side, and started filing, once I got a good groove going, I laid it flat across the hammer and finished that line all the way across. rinse repeat.
 
Oh; its not the the grooves that I had trouble with. Its that the Denix hammer is 1. Too short, and 2. Seems to slightly lack enough base metal in certain spots to accurately match a Mauser's hammer.

I'm just trying to fiddle with the apparent insufficiency of metal in spots, and am considering redrilling the mounting hole for the hammer slightly higher than it comes in the Mauser's lower receiver.
 
Yep. The hammer is one of the biggest uglies on the Denix that makes the whole blaster look bad.

The MGC is all wronge too.
After struggling to make each look better. I got them to the Best they cold possibly be.

They were better but not good enough. I eventually had to go ahead and copy the actual C 96 with safety markings and all. The locking area is different on both so I had to make 2 versions with the locking area recut to function with the sear.

I gave the masters to DEC a while back. If there was enough interest DEC could possibly be enticed to offer them.?

These are are the original patterns.
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Yeah; I asked DEC a LONG while back about making a run of hammers for the Denix that were more accurate. I think he simply said that he didn't think enough people would be interested in them do do any kind of run on them (though I'd buy half a dozen in a heartbeat).
 
Yeah; I asked DEC a LONG while back about making a run of hammers for the Denix that were more accurate. I think he simply said that he didn't think enough people would be interested in them do do any kind of run on them (though I'd buy half a dozen in a heartbeat).


maybe if you start an interest thread and there is enough interest,... Dave will be interested...? ; )


I would think everyone with an MGC or Denix would be interested just because it just looks Soooo much better.
 

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