Custom Replicas 66" TOS E

how do you support the underside of the saucer top when you sand it?

I imagine as thin as it is, when you press down on it, it must collapse in the center. do you put it on a raised surface to work on it?
 
how do you support the underside of the saucer top when you sand it?

I imagine as thin as it is, when you press down on it, it must collapse in the center. do you put it on a raised surface to work on it?
I only measured the thickness on the outside of the part. Fiberglass isn't like styrene it's a lot stronger(it's glass fiber bound with a resin), I had no trouble sanding the middle. Plus the middle is a convex surface(unlike the edges) that shape adds to it's strength.

My router is free at the moment, so I'm using that area to sand these parts. It's flat and has good ventilation.
 
I have one of the CR 67" kits. My saucer top is made of vacuum-formed plastic, with an extra strip of plastic glued on around the outer edge. I'm surprised to see the fiberglass saucer tops. They must be from later issues of the kit.


E
 
Max,
No problem using my site/build up as a reference, that's what it's there for!

Glad to see someone else tackling this project! It's a very rewarding model, with lots of time and effort to get there. Looks like you are treating it right from the get go.

BTW, I had some minor warpage myself, and you'll see in my saucer build section, my solution was to create a bunch of acrylic stubs that matched the inner saucer. This way I was able to actually screw down sections of the saucer to ensure the saucer would never 'pop up' after being secured down. So far after all these years, I don't even have a crack in the saucer or anywhere.

I agree on the motors, they are noisy. I will replace mine one of these days.

Well good luck with the project, I know we will all be watching intently!!

Keep up the great work, and I LOVE the full scale Enterprise build and comparisons. Nice :thumbsup

-Sean
 
Thanks Sean, your build is what made me want one of these in the first place.
I'll use your suggestion on the upper saucer, I've never been all that comfortable with chemical bonds(I've seen to many models spontaneously fall apart over the years).

I've had some work get in the way of my builds(isn't that how it goes). But I'm back on the little E(I have been on the big one as well, but that's another thread).
I have found the instructions that came with this kit to be a very loose guideline for building the model. (This is something for those of you out there that think you have to follow the instructions absolutely). The people that create these sort of kits are not infallible, they can't think of everything.

Contrary to some people's opinions they are only human like all of the rest of us.
Here is one of the issues I found that if I followed the instructions. This task would be considerably more difficult.
rig4.jpg

Note the ends of the warp nacelles, what they are being supported on. This is what your supposed to do to align and level the engines. Along with taping across the pylons to the correct angle. Now the problems with this method are numerous, in the hands of a pro like Sean he makes these things look easy.

Now the problems with this method-
dscn2539.jpg

Your expected to support and align the engine on the ring below the endcap. It isn't attached to the engine, according to the instructions that's what you have to do first. I didn't like this method because if this piece is off the engine will be as well. If your going to align the engine you want to use the parts that are solid and hopefully straight.

So here is what I did-
dscn2495i.jpg

First I used the original layout of the instructions to get key points of the model. Then I took measurements off of the model(sorry I don't have any pics of that, I will take some if asked). I did get measurements of the points where I wanted to place the supports on the engines. I then took that info and designed a cradle for the model. I did the same thing for the parts of the Big E, and I will make something similar to this when I assemble it.

dscn2501k.jpg

If you look at the right side of the pic about the middle. You will see a slot, that is what I use to move the nacelle up or down. It's held together with a wing nut for easy tightening.

dscn2497w.jpg

Making sure the table below is level, I place a level across where I'm supporting the nacelles.

dscn2499g.jpg

The cradle has the correct distance between the centers of the nacelles(19.75").

dscn2503u.jpg

And I incorporated one other thing, I used the forward part of the cradle as an alignment tool for the pylons as well.
In case your wondering I created the cradle on my router. In machining circles we call an alignment tool such as this a jig.

dscn2518i.jpg

I used the level lengthwise as well, but I didn't level it in that direction(that would not be good). I did note where the bubble was, and see if both sides have the same angle(which they did).

Now for some model porn.
dscn2520v.jpg


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Here is how I supported the saucer for these pics.

dscn2524.jpg


dscn2526c.jpg

I figured you guys might enjoy this. I've never seen these two photographed together(now I have:lol).
dscn2530i.jpg


That's it for now, any questions?
 
yes,
are you selling plans for that jig? May I buy it off of you when you are done with it?

BTW, the two ships have been photographed together before. At Wonderfest when Sean's masterpiece was on display next to John Eaves' Prototype MR Enterprise
 
I have a little cradle for the 1/1000 model...but mine is done upside down from your way. Model is on its back.
 
yes,
are you selling plans for that jig? May I buy it off of you when you are done with it?
I can make them at will. I didn't want to sell mine because it needs some refinement. I can make the refinements, and offer the jig for sale. I would have to figure a price, regardless of that price it would be cheaper than making them yourself.
I could make them for other models as well, but I don't think it would be economical for something as small as the 1000 tos E.

Plus I'm not finished with this jug stuff, there is more parts on the model that need this process.

BTW, the two ships have been photographed together before. At Wonderfest when Sean's masterpiece was on display next to John Eaves' Prototype MR Enterprise
I don't remember that, and I remember seeing pics of Seans build at a Wonderfest.
 
well sign me up for your first production run, that is just too sweet.

A modified version in clear acrylic would make a fine display stand as well. (and would combat the droop)

I'll see if I can dig up the wonderfest pic
 
Thanks guys, here is more.

dscn2571u.jpg

Here is the aft nacelle jig. It puts everything in place even the endcap.

dscn2580b.jpg

The same jig works on both sides. Even though the engines are not the same size.

dscn2576o.jpg

The outermost plate works as a stop for the intercoolers and vents. There are tabs on each of the guide rails that stop on the end of the nacelle, and hold the endcap in position.
dscn2577w.jpg

It uses rubber bands to hold it on.

dscn2583.jpg

See the double holes on the center-line of the engine. those indicate the center of the part.

dscn2548q.jpg

Here is how I found the center-line of the engine. Using a combination square with a center head.

dscn2581.jpg

Here is another guide I'm using, this is going up into the acrylic armature to keep the hull straight. Using the mount for the existing base.

AD I don't think it work to well for an acrylic display stand, I would do something different for that purpose. I made it out of MDF so it could be modified to fit each individual model. Since these are garage kits they will vary from casting to casting, the instructions say the correct diameter of the front of the nacelles is 3.685". I can say that number isn't very realistic. Since the nacelles are not even round, only one the numbers I got was close to what the manual states. (That was on the outer edge of .005", it's considered within tolerance but not very good. Applying such high numbers to a model kit is laughable, do some sanding and apply some paint and those numbers are gone). Why am I saying this, well this is a garage kit, there are things that are going to be wonky. Some parts will work some will not. I'm trying to make my jigs close, but I'm sure those of you that pick up some of my jigs will have to make changes.

These jigs are tailored to the Custom Replicas kit(since that is what I got). I'm sure I'm going to have to change things a little for Steve's kit.

I still have a little more to do. I'll post that when I'm done.
 
I got the jigs done.
dscn2595j.jpg

The power dome shield guides gave me a bit of trouble.
dscn2586t.jpg

I was hoping to get away with one, but for this model I had to do two. Since the front of the Nacelles are not the same size. But the rear of the nacelles is much closer(go figure?).

dscn2588a.jpg

Close up.
The plate in the back is a stop for the shields. While the front plate is for position.

dscn2594q.jpg

Here is the saucer support, shim to desired height.
Right in the front of the 2nd hull, is a stop for the hull. That aligns the pylons to the engines.
dscn2520v.jpg


If anybody wants one of these jigs PM me. This will only fit the Custom Replicas 66" Enterprise. I can't guarantee it will fit any of the other 66" E's out there at this time. I plan to make it fit Steve's 66"(as per his request), I'm sure it will need to be tweaked for his model.

Now I can get back to building this model.

Any questions, comments?
 
Max you sure like to do things the right way. Amazing.

I'm miles away still but closing. The NX keeps going on. But Sunday it gets a clear coat and I can't touch it for 24 hours. Then the last of the markings. The Aztecs will be done tomorrow.

So I'm hoping to get a day in on her Sunday. Another Tues. And after say Wed. I will have a couple of weeks. So I hope to get to the molds then.

These jigs should work pretty well on mine to, we'll see. I worked from the same planes but things can be slightly off as Max knows.

Back to Aztec hell.

Steve
 
Wow Max!! I love to see how folks take different approaches to assembly. Your preparation and engineering really shows off!!!

This is looking GREAT!!!!!!

I love your progress pics and explanations too. You are going to have an amazing model to be proud of for sure when you are done!!

Keep up the good work!

-Sean
 
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