Nerf Gun Props? YES!

Can't wait to see your hammershot! I have a Retaliator on the boil, but making slow progress though. Only just started filing off the warning guff...

Yeah the Mig Jimenez chipping fluids have a similar effect to the hairspray - just more controlled, it seems.

It's interesting the convergence between the fantasy painters and the model-makers, and the differences in techniques. Interesting to see how the model-makers combine both acrylics and enamels, depending on what they're trying to achieve. I think the model-makers do a better job, to be honest.

Yeah, I'm just starting to remove the logos and warnings from my Hammershot, too! Deciding whether or not to 3D print a barrel for it or not, for that extra little bit of customisation.
 
Not finished yet but couldn't wait to share. Thanks Vim for the inspiration!

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This is great Vim. I've studied various tutorials for a couple years now, but most seem to raise more questions than they answer. I'm anxious to try some of this on a Steampunk project and also on my model building hobby.
 
I've studied various tutorials for a couple years now, but most seem to raise more questions than they answer. I'm anxious to try some of this on a Steampunk project and also on my model building hobby.

Have you watched the Mig Jimenez vids on YouTube? They're also excellent. The scale is wrong (obviously) for blasters, but the techniques are great.
 
This one was a disaster, so I decided to make it more of a disaster.

I believe Bob Ross used to refer to those as 'happy accidents' - just turn it into a bunny, or something :D

As disasters go, this one looks pretty cool - I really like the colour palette in combination with the battle-damage.
 
I love the colours too! Unconventional, but they work, I think.

So I learned a couple of things about the Ammo by Mig acrylics - they're designed to be airbrushed on in multiple light coats, and allowed to dry for 24hrs before you break out the enamels and start weathering. If you don't, the stuff just peels off in sheets. I can't say I'd recommend them if you're using brushes (Which I am).

Also, I think I might prefer using masking latex rather than the chipping fluid. The chipping fluid doesn't produce 'human scale' effects. It's fine for 1:35 scale models, but when you're trying to do something 1:1, it doesn't really give me what I want. Might just be me though.
 
The latest from my workshop is a customised Nerf Retaliator, featuring a modified longstrike barrel attachment, a Raider stock, and Orange Mod Works Solid stage 1 & 2 internals. I call it the Ice Tiger.

GwtC553.jpg


Paints used include Rustoleum flat black, flat red primer, Dulux stainless steel, Tamiya turquoise and bright purple, and titanium silver for the dry-brushing. The black parts also got a couple of coats of Testors flat clear for protection. Much salt was sacrificed in the creation of the rust - totally worth it. I should add too, that I haven't done any weathering, other than the wash I gave the rusted metal before the secondary coats went on. I'm not sure if it actually needs it...

Uk5BRu5.jpg


Thanks for looking!
 
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Amazing! How do you get that great looking textured metal appearance, like on the grip, etc? Any tips you are willing to share? Great work!

The latest from my workshop is a customised Nerf Retaliator, featuring a modified longstrike barrel attachment, a Raider stock, and Orange Mod Works Solid stage 1 & 2 internals. I call it the Ice Tiger.

https://i.imgur.com/GwtC553.jpg

Paints used include Rustoleum flat black, flat red primer, Dulux stainless steel, Tamiya turquoise and bright purple, and titanium silver for the dry-brushing. The black parts also got a couple of coats of Testors flat clear for protection. Much salt was sacrificed in the creation of the rust - totally worth it. I should add too, that I haven't done any weathering, other than the wash I gave the rusted metal before the secondary coats went on. I'm not sure if it actually needs it...

https://i.imgur.com/Uk5BRu5.jpg

Thanks for looking!
 
Amazing! How do you get that great looking textured metal appearance, like on the grip, etc? Any tips you are willing to share? Great work!

Hi Padawan, thanks for the compliments :)

If you look back through my post history, you'll find heaps of information on all of the techniques that I've used in the past that led up to this paintjob.

In this case though, the grip is a simple drybrushing with a little more paint than normal, and applied with more pressure on the bristles - I call it 'scrubbing'.
 
wow, tons of awesome new additions to this thread since i last checked it out. i'll be getting my mitts on a 3d printed pulse rifle kit soon, and will be making an attempt to paint it. this thread will definitely be super useful. great work everyone!
 
Yeah sure!

These are actually the first two things I've painted in like 25 years, so please keep in mind that I'm still well in the (re)learning phase.

I use acrylics exclusively. Undercoat is sprayed Citadel 'Chaos Black' but for my next one I might use 'Leadbelcher'.

I have a small but growing collection of Citadel and Vallejo acrylics, which I brush on but I'll start airbrushing some bits once my airbrush gets here and I get used to it.

For the paint chipping, there's two techniques I tried:

Soap Technique - rub a bar of soap on corners and any bits that you don't want paint to adhere to. Wash it off after your top coat has thoroughly dried.
Hairspray Technique - spray hairspray over your base layer after it's dried. After that's dry, paint your topcoat over the top. Once that's dry, moisten your top coat with a bit of water, and with a slightly stiffer brush, start working over the areas you want the paint to come off. You can 'encourage' areas by scratching them with a wooden skewer or similar. Just follow the tutorials on YouTube, it's pretty straight-forward (if somewhat miraculous).

Drybrushing:

I saw a technique on YouTube where a woman almost exclusively only drybrushes. I mean, literally everything. So I'm experimenting with layered drybrushing where you get lighter and lighter with each application. That's what I did for the copper section on the blaster pictured earlier. It's a great way to bring out subtle details.

Effing Up:

For adding dirt and grime, I'm currently using Citadel 'Nuln Oil' and Vallejo 'Streaking Grime' Environment acrylic. I add in small amounts of different colour acrylics to vary the color and opacity. I love the Vallejo Environment acrylics! Will definitely be getting more.
I just rub paint in the creases and either wipe it off with tissue, or dab it with a sponge. It's not hard, it just takes a bit of courage :)

My challenge with my next model is to show some restraint. I think the sandy coloured side of the blaster above is just taking it a bit too far.

Next project is a Hammershot, so Vim, I'll be using your example of a few pages ago as inspiration!
Great stuff!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Post-apocalyptic puddle-junk Hammershot

t1mbK7v.jpg


Features burnt copper, stripped aluminium and rough-cast titanium construction - at one time, this might have had some sort of paintjob, but it's hard to tell...

JdcX5QI.jpg


This was an experiment in what a Nerf blaster might look like if you stripped the paint off it leaving bare metal. Unfortunately, the Orange paint failed to hold onto the silver, and the masking tape pulled almost all of it off leaving a mostly silver blaster - not ideal... The burnt copper was added as an afterthought, mainly to give some separation between the different body-parts.
 
Post-apocalyptic puddle-junk Hammershot

https://i.imgur.com/t1mbK7v.jpg

Features burnt copper, stripped aluminium and rough-cast titanium construction - at one time, this might have had some sort of paintjob, but it's hard to tell...

https://i.imgur.com/JdcX5QI.jpg

This was an experiment in what a Nerf blaster might look like if you stripped the paint off it leaving bare metal. Unfortunately, the Orange paint failed to hold onto the silver, and the masking tape pulled almost all of it off leaving a mostly silver blaster - not ideal... The burnt copper was added as an afterthought, mainly to give some separation between the different body-parts.

Magnificent work, as always. Really like your quick gun holder solution.
 

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