"Ready Room Scale" Stargazer parts ID and build

Ready to swing into high.

I've attached artwork of the hull, top and bottom, suitable for laser-cutting in 1/8" acrylic -- which I'm having done now.

If you're following along at home, be aware that the saucer rim on both needs to be bevelled at an angle of 67 degrees.
 
Don't know how I missed this...

Wow it's almost all IDed. Sometimes this place is sort of like a mind reading magic show. The other day I was pondering the fate of two boxed amt kits and I search for some new reference only to get bounced back here. Thanks for sharing that parts map ProfKSergeev!

Any ideas on the color? It always reminded me of raw hobby resin on screen but against a white background it's a dark mustard. I remember reading it described as similar to an afrika corps shade.

Laser cut hulls. NICE.

Youll be asking about the display stand in no time.
 
It definitely looks like Afrika mustard to me, but I'm going to be heretical and paint mine in the greys of the larger filming miniature. If my décor were more like Picard's, maybe I'd keep it yellow, but then I'd need a fishtank.
 
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I had the vacform model of this from SFSM years ago and foolishly threw it away in a move half finished. Wished I could find another one now.
 
I've gotta go mustard color so I can display the teacups but there's no way I'm
padding the walls in a light maroon fabric.

The larger studio scale model was kitbashed to match the ready room decoration. But you're right, the yellow is bigtime ugly. Which is why I cant wait to see a proper starfleet color scheme on correct kitparts.

I've got a few shots of the fx model as the Valkyrie but it's prob not anything you haven't scraped off the web already. Let me know and I'll post em up in here if you like.
 
On the lower hull pic you posted, ProfKSergeev, did you use a lot of filler in back where the B/C decks meet the lower hull surface? I can see where you blended the edge of the B/C deck to the lower hull around the circumference, but I'm curious what you did in back where the observation room windows are located.
 
Yes; because of the curvature of the lower hull I had to increase the height of the structure beneath the observation windows with Aves. I'm away from my bench for a while, but when I can I'll post a photo, and you'll see that the height is nearly doubled. There may be a way around this by judiciously shaving the interior circumference of the bridge.
 
I think that's what they did when they built the original model too, so your prolly more accurate doing it that way then shaving the inside to fit the curve of the lower hull. Of course they didn't use Aves back then, probably bondo filler or similar.
 
I extended the cut out part to meet the edge of the saucer to preserve those awful panel lines. But I agree the original looks like smooth like filler.

Hey ProfKSergeev, thanks to stevielewis with a lead on the Sherman tank treads I think it's safe to say the original kit bash uses a 1/72 Type 80 tank treads.
 
Thanks for the heads-up, Nighteyes, and to stevielewis for the ID; I'll add it to the parts map once I'm back at a desktop terminal. I may forego the treads myself. Never been overly fond of them as greeblies.
 
Nothing worth showing; in fact, I may have to backtrack a little. When I broke out the acrylic parts I had had laser-cut, I became even more dissatisfied with them. Certain sections of the top and bottom hull pieces are, for example, measurably different widths and/or lengths, while on the files I provided they are identical to the pixel. Not to mention every circular cut has a noticeable flat section. So if anyone has a suggestion for a more precise laser cutting service, I'd be obliged.
 
Sorry to hear about your problems with the acrylic parts you had made to order. I do hope you find another place to have them made, and made correctly.
 
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