DC-17m for Republic Commandos

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #1

Hi !
I thought I'd share that work here too to get some feedback from the pros.
I wanted to make a DC-17m for a long time.

Here is the build log with many pics, I though that might interest some of you.


To get a screen accurate DC-17m a used completely disassembled and unpainted wood parts from Talon (TZA-Team),

At first I constructed the trigger new.

Here a compare between the solid wood version (Talon) and my MDF version.

The magazines (sniper and blaster) were a little bit modified.

The two magazines are ready for Blaster and Sniper now.

Inside are installed five blue LEDs, which can be individually controlled by the DSub-15 connector.

The two halves of the blaster stock were sanded and glued with 3mm MDF. Then screwed with 7 screws.

In contrast to my DC-15S (the battery is in the removable magazine), I build in three 9V batteries into the thick bulge (theoretical a tripod) under the DC.

Under the blaster stock four screws are screwed and in the battery pack are suitable holes. With the help of two aluminum bars the battery pack is attached to the Blaster-Stock.

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #2

The finished grip (with trigger) has founding its place under the DC stock:

It is connected with four M4 screws. The back plate is screwed with two M4 screws.

Until now, the current DC looks like this:

At next iron rear sight (Talon).

My version of the iron rear sight was an package of five aluminum plates.

The front (middle) iron sight is also renewed. Is is reproduced in plastic (PVC).

The anti armor side flap is reproduced in plastic (PVC), too.

Via an alu hinge is the side flap connected with a digital servo (inside the body).

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #3

The next step for all interested parties:

Four major electrical elements have been incorporated into the stock side:
- One DSub-15 to connect the magazines.
- A snap action switch with a roll as a clip in/out sensor for a BlasterCore.
- A push button with a new PVC button to change the BlasterCore mode.
- A classical slide switch for power on/off.

The first of two power-on-displays:

The second power-on-displays:

I glued a gray PVC ring on the self made PVC cover, so that the blaster attachment fits perfectly on the stock. Two large D-Sub connectors were mounted on the PVC ring.

For the rear pawl at the blaster attachment, I screwed a steel strip from the Home-Depot inside and passed it through the plastic cover.

A notch was cut out and a steel angle (again Home-Depot) was inserted into the stock.

To connect the attachment on the stock, the DSub connector was full floating mounted (small modification). The connector can now move approx 3mm in its holder (backward and forward). All together it looks now like this:

I had to wait for three months for the blue 7-segment displays. The three 7-segment display (common cathode and GND) are connected
to a 26 pin-connector strip .

With Blaster it looks like this:

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

Atlas

Well-Known Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #4

Stunningly Sweet.
Can't wait to see progress!

_Atlas

 

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #5

The zoom coverage including skid. I changed a little bit the orignal from Talon: orignal - mold - new one

The zoom optic consists of two glued piano hinges. On the outside of each I glued a piece of polystyrene. Looks like the original quite similar.

The fastener has finally made it into the blaster. You can shake the DC hold on the attachment like blazes. It don't move a millimeter.

I put a fader (10K resistor, ALPS) in the blaster attachment. The button was from Talon, but I modified it a little bit.

Here two pictures of my DC-17m (without any signs of handling and BlasterCore3):

Weight: 2,6 kg. The magazine and the blaster attachment are movable.
Behind the Counter-Display, I installed two 1W speakers.


In the meanwhile came the BlasterCore3 from Erv'. Now I've built all the electronics into the blaster.

Afterwards, I could paint the DC17m. Here the template for the colors:

And proudly presents, here is my replica:

Here you can find the first video clip: Part 1 - DC17m - The Base Chassis

YouTube - Part 1 - DC17m - Base Chassis

And here the second video clip: Part 2 - DC17m - Blaster Mode

YouTube - Part 2 - DC17m - Blaster Mode

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #6

I have started with the anti-armor attachment. I have the wood version from Talon, but I want a PVC version with enough space for my electronics.

The body housing of the anti-armor attachment is done.

It lacks only the electronics and the paint.

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

Starchwreck

Well-Known Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Nov 23, 2010

• #7

What is this? Week of Awesome Star Wars Stuff????? Unbelievably AMAZING!!!!!

 

baron von blondle

Sr Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #8

that is outstanding! a thing of beauty to be sure!

Respect
P.

 

CSMacLaren

Sr Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #9

That has got to be one of the most awesome blaster builds I've seen! Remarkable!

 

Prince NEO

Sr Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #10

Sweettttt, Very nice work :thumbsup

Great work, just amazing what you can do with wood.

 

C0mmand3rC0dy

Sr Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #11

that is extremely well made and looks great to boot, very envious of your skills and the prop itself

Nicely done!

 

B

Burke

Active Member

• Nov 23, 2010

• #12

Is that electrical pvc you used? Or is it sheet pvc?

 

Sluis Van Shipyards

Legendary Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Nov 23, 2010

• #13

Very cool! I'm going to do this rifle eventually. Are there any blueprints with dimensions for this gun?

 

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 24, 2010

• #14

Thank you for the many praise. lol

Burke said:

Is that electrical pvc you used? Or is it sheet pvc?

Click to expand...

For the Anti-Armor-Attachment I used 6mm sheet PVC. To formed it I heated the sheet in the oven at 150 °C and put it around a wooden mold.

 

Atlas

Well-Known Member

• Nov 24, 2010

• #15

Now where is that jaw of mine...Be careful not to step on it! It's fragile!
*goes searching*

_Atlas

 

TI6815

Well-Known Member

• Nov 24, 2010

• #16

Just cool work ...I see the Blaster on Skype! This Prop Rocks !

 

CaptainWales

Well-Known Member

• Nov 24, 2010

• #17

That's so cool! It's really neat that you're doing the anti-armour attachment too.

 

ligonap

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2010

• #18

After a long time the light for muzzle is done.

For that a piece of EL wire (2.2 mm diameter) is inserted into the inclined tube wall. A 3V-inverter (which will run later with 5V) is already in the housing. The base painting is done too. It lacks only the red stripes, the weathering and the electronics to count and to control the side flap.

 

Last edited: Jan 7, 2013

Geniepants

Well-Known Member

• Nov 29, 2010

• #19

Crap, I think I just got some drool on my keyboard!

 

sjorsjo91

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Nov 29, 2010

• #20

that is a very clean blaster
you sir made my day