FutureMarty
Member
Nice! Way to go
Dr. Strangelove survival kit
- Thread starter PaulEscolar
- Start date
275rangerrod
New Member
Where did you locate the carton to scan? I would love to get a copy so that I may make two boxes for my kit.
FutureMarty
Member
My first go round I hobbled things together from google images until I found some on ebay. Will try to get some scans up asap. If there is any new blood on this thread would love to get past some of the things I got hung up on, vial type for one.
275rangerrod
New Member
I just got a bunch of these vials. they are 1 7/8" tall (with cap on), 5/8" wide and 2" diameter.
they are about as close as the originals as I can find. what are your thoughts?
they are about as close as the originals as I can find. what are your thoughts?
FutureMarty
Member
The vials were the point where I started to give up. My only thought to check the size was to type out the labels on a type writer and then compare. I had a hard time finding anything with a "tooled neck" at the top.
FutureMarty
Member
RangerRod, I scanned my ammo box... If I remember the screen version says "Match Ammunition" with no safety warning. Hope its helpful.
275rangerrod
New Member
I found these bottles today at joanne fabric. they are 2.75" tall and come with a cork top. not sure where to look for the plastic tops.
FutureMarty
Member
That looks better, hard to tell scale against movie. Tops look like a good candidate for 3D printing and casting.
FutureMarty
Member
I picked up the same bottles, I like the shape but I think they are on the larger size. I think I'm going to try to make labels for my smaller ones and make some sort of cap. Frustrating
modernbeat
New Member
Has anyone identified the stencil font on the cover?
Most I find have the "C" broken into three parts instead of the two part style used on the prop.
Most I find have the "C" broken into three parts instead of the two part style used on the prop.
modernbeat
New Member
Has anyone found a wrist compass similar to the one Adam is using, which looks correct to the screen version?
I'd guess that Adam molded his, as the one that was displayed is missing the hole for the buckle and adjustment holes.
While the housing-strap looks a lot like the the inexpensive Japanese made Aqua-Guide version sold by Dacor, US Divers and others in the '60s, the actual compass element looks very different. The compass in the movie has a lower dome and the face is divided into 12 major segments with two small tick marks between segments. The screen compass has a single thick needle that shows as a green color in Adam's version. And the strap in the film is obviously not black, which all the vintage versions are. Adam's also has a bump for a buckle pin to pass through while the Aqua-Guide is folded over the buckle and riveted.
Adam Savage compass which may be from the "Museum Of The Moving Image" display.
Front of the compass as seen in the film.
Back of the compass as seen in the film, to the left of the food pack and propped up on the cartridge case.
And another front shot without the clear cover over the box
I'd guess that Adam molded his, as the one that was displayed is missing the hole for the buckle and adjustment holes.
While the housing-strap looks a lot like the the inexpensive Japanese made Aqua-Guide version sold by Dacor, US Divers and others in the '60s, the actual compass element looks very different. The compass in the movie has a lower dome and the face is divided into 12 major segments with two small tick marks between segments. The screen compass has a single thick needle that shows as a green color in Adam's version. And the strap in the film is obviously not black, which all the vintage versions are. Adam's also has a bump for a buckle pin to pass through while the Aqua-Guide is folded over the buckle and riveted.
Adam Savage compass which may be from the "Museum Of The Moving Image" display.
Front of the compass as seen in the film.
Back of the compass as seen in the film, to the left of the food pack and propped up on the cartridge case.
And another front shot without the clear cover over the box
modernbeat
New Member
And to give a little to the community, I've identified the lipsticks. They are Avon Deluxe models.
Closeup detail of the tubes showing the flower detail on the top.
The same 8-pedal flower design is on the Avon Deluxe tubes, which date from that period.
I've also found the right vials. They are one dram or 3.7ML vials which are 15mm diameter and 45mm tall.
I had to buy more than 100 to get them.
This size looks correct with both the screen version and Adam's vials pictured next to the Food Survival Packet that is known to be just about 1 5/8" (42mm) thick.
Closeup detail of the tubes showing the flower detail on the top.
The same 8-pedal flower design is on the Avon Deluxe tubes, which date from that period.
I've also found the right vials. They are one dram or 3.7ML vials which are 15mm diameter and 45mm tall.
I had to buy more than 100 to get them.
This size looks correct with both the screen version and Adam's vials pictured next to the Food Survival Packet that is known to be just about 1 5/8" (42mm) thick.
modernbeat
New Member
Progress making accurate pill bottle labels.
Measuring this photo of the bottles and labels it looks like the labels were typewritten in all caps in standard typewriter size (8-point) on 0.20" wide adhesive paper tape. Note that tranquilizer is misspelled with two Ls.
Tweaked the photo to straighten the labels and brought it into Illustrator to layout the text to match the actual labels. I used the distressed typewriter typeface "Special Elite". Converted the text to outlines and relocated the text over the label photo to match the spacing errors.
My finished label artwork compared to the actual labels. The blue background was used to size the crop marks around each label.
I've prepped this in a PDF with two sets and trim lines that can be printed on label material or paper to be glued.
Measuring this photo of the bottles and labels it looks like the labels were typewritten in all caps in standard typewriter size (8-point) on 0.20" wide adhesive paper tape. Note that tranquilizer is misspelled with two Ls.
Tweaked the photo to straighten the labels and brought it into Illustrator to layout the text to match the actual labels. I used the distressed typewriter typeface "Special Elite". Converted the text to outlines and relocated the text over the label photo to match the spacing errors.
My finished label artwork compared to the actual labels. The blue background was used to size the crop marks around each label.
I've prepped this in a PDF with two sets and trim lines that can be printed on label material or paper to be glued.
modernbeat
New Member
If you are looking for the correct Western Super X Match 45 ACP box, I've bought two of them from this seller on GunBroker. He has one more with minor damage for sale. If buying live ammo is problematic or illegal for you or your location, he can send just the box if you request it.
modernbeat
New Member
In putting together my Dr Strangelove survival kit I had to make some decisions.
First, do I want to fill it with the actual items or extremely close replicas, or with decent replicas of the items, or with faux items that only appear to be real from arms length?
The "actual items" will be difficult to find and expensive to purchase. It will take some time.
"Decent replicas" will pass muster, be fairly easy to find, may take some labor and tools to make parts not easily available, but will never be "right".
"Faux items" would be fine for a prop that is never seen up close, and will take some skill, labor and tools to make convincing parts.
I decided that I wanted to go with the "actual item" route. I know there are some pieces that still have to be made, just like the original prop makers made them. The kit box, the pill labels, and the book cover will have to be fabricated. I'll also have to make the right cellophane packaging for the nylon hose and the glassine envelope the condom.
Second, do I want the condition of the parts to be as they were in 1963/64 during filming, mostly new and unworn? This would be easier if I were going the "Faux" or "Decent" route, as I'd have more control over the appearance.
Do I want the condition to be as if it were knocking about since September 1963, as if it were a real kit and has been worn and aged? This would be the easier route to follow for an "actual item" kit, as finding old gum, ammo boxes and lipsticks in pristine new condition will be immeasurably more difficult than finding these already rare items in decent condition.
I chose to build my kit out of "worn" items with the wear and tear and fading similar to what the kit would have gone through over the last sixty years.
First, do I want to fill it with the actual items or extremely close replicas, or with decent replicas of the items, or with faux items that only appear to be real from arms length?
The "actual items" will be difficult to find and expensive to purchase. It will take some time.
"Decent replicas" will pass muster, be fairly easy to find, may take some labor and tools to make parts not easily available, but will never be "right".
"Faux items" would be fine for a prop that is never seen up close, and will take some skill, labor and tools to make convincing parts.
I decided that I wanted to go with the "actual item" route. I know there are some pieces that still have to be made, just like the original prop makers made them. The kit box, the pill labels, and the book cover will have to be fabricated. I'll also have to make the right cellophane packaging for the nylon hose and the glassine envelope the condom.
Second, do I want the condition of the parts to be as they were in 1963/64 during filming, mostly new and unworn? This would be easier if I were going the "Faux" or "Decent" route, as I'd have more control over the appearance.
Do I want the condition to be as if it were knocking about since September 1963, as if it were a real kit and has been worn and aged? This would be the easier route to follow for an "actual item" kit, as finding old gum, ammo boxes and lipsticks in pristine new condition will be immeasurably more difficult than finding these already rare items in decent condition.
I chose to build my kit out of "worn" items with the wear and tear and fading similar to what the kit would have gone through over the last sixty years.
modernbeat
New Member
Of the items to buy, I've been making headway. I have the ammo and ammo boxes on their way along with a decent condition M1911A1 pistol with the correct 5" barrel and early walnut grips with the diamonds over the screws.
On hand I have some of the pieces to make some of the packaging, the cellophane to make nylon hose packaging and the correct glassine envelopes for the condom. I've been looking for a decently priced seafoam green canvas tent I can cut up for the kit cover. And I've got the right pill bottles.
For the purchased pieces, I've got a period P38 can opener, a 1961 dated "Imperial" brand stainless pocket knife, five packs of the correct Wrigley's Spearmint gum, and 100 Rubles in the 1961 design.
When looking at the knives, I first looked at the Camillus brand knives, which are much more common. The prices were high and most of the available knives were heavily worn. Though I was willing to accept some wear and tear, I didn't want that much damage on my items so I broadened my search and found other brands of the same US marked stainless knife. The Imperial brand is a rarer piece, less well known, and this one I found was in great condition.
Looking at the gum, there are some minor differences in packaging from the early sixties to the late sixties, to the late seventies, to the early eighties. The artwork is mostly the same except for the "5 STICKS" text which in some eras had a "10 CENTS" text. In some eras the pack has clear cellophane over the pack. In some eras the wrapper is slick and in some it's satin. I decided to look for these packs with the slick wrapper and "5 STICKS" artwork. Even in these there is some minor variances in the artwork. So far I've got five of them and will try to find nine of them that better match.
For the Rubles, it was cheap enough to just buy actual currency than to reproduce it accurately. I'll package them in two stacks and find a correct "soft" extra long rubber band to triple wrap around the stacks.
The P38 can opener is difficult to see on screen, and you can't see enough detail to see what version of packaging it has. The "US Speaker", "Washburn Corp", and "US Androck" packaging are all too early. The correct era packaging would be "US Mallin." or "U.S. Shelby Co." Others that might be a little early, but can't be ruled out would have "Koolaire" packaging. I bought a NOS "US Mallin" version.
On hand I have some of the pieces to make some of the packaging, the cellophane to make nylon hose packaging and the correct glassine envelopes for the condom. I've been looking for a decently priced seafoam green canvas tent I can cut up for the kit cover. And I've got the right pill bottles.
For the purchased pieces, I've got a period P38 can opener, a 1961 dated "Imperial" brand stainless pocket knife, five packs of the correct Wrigley's Spearmint gum, and 100 Rubles in the 1961 design.
When looking at the knives, I first looked at the Camillus brand knives, which are much more common. The prices were high and most of the available knives were heavily worn. Though I was willing to accept some wear and tear, I didn't want that much damage on my items so I broadened my search and found other brands of the same US marked stainless knife. The Imperial brand is a rarer piece, less well known, and this one I found was in great condition.
Looking at the gum, there are some minor differences in packaging from the early sixties to the late sixties, to the late seventies, to the early eighties. The artwork is mostly the same except for the "5 STICKS" text which in some eras had a "10 CENTS" text. In some eras the pack has clear cellophane over the pack. In some eras the wrapper is slick and in some it's satin. I decided to look for these packs with the slick wrapper and "5 STICKS" artwork. Even in these there is some minor variances in the artwork. So far I've got five of them and will try to find nine of them that better match.
For the Rubles, it was cheap enough to just buy actual currency than to reproduce it accurately. I'll package them in two stacks and find a correct "soft" extra long rubber band to triple wrap around the stacks.
The P38 can opener is difficult to see on screen, and you can't see enough detail to see what version of packaging it has. The "US Speaker", "Washburn Corp", and "US Androck" packaging are all too early. The correct era packaging would be "US Mallin." or "U.S. Shelby Co." Others that might be a little early, but can't be ruled out would have "Koolaire" packaging. I bought a NOS "US Mallin" version.
modernbeat
New Member
I'm having second thoughts about the Avon Lipsticks I mentioned. And I think these may be closer due to the diameter of the lipsticks compared to the width of the small Ruble bills.
I had seen the compact Revlon lipsticks, but had never seen the Avon versions.
This lot of three popped up on eBay. It has two of the Revlon tubes that I rejected since they don't have the flower design on the top of the tube. But this is the first time I've seen this Avon, which does have a flower design.
When it arrives I'll compare it to the Rubles for size reference to verify or reject it.
Lipstick tops as seen on the screen.
The two Revlon and single Avon tubes.
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You have a good one! The colour Green fades to Blue over time when exposed to light.
