Luke ROTJ Lightsaber v2 3D Print

Skigro

Well-Known Member
I am almost finished with my v3 and I couldn't wait to start the v2. So here is what I have so far. please provide as much feedback as you can. I welcome it. I want this to be as accurate as I can get it with my novice Fusion 360 skills. I started with my v3 as a base, and made modifications to it. The knurled knob was fun, but without knowing dimensions I feel it is way off. The mystery chunk has not been refined yet. its literally a square sitting there. lol

Anyone have dimensions for the v2?

Thanks for looking...

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 v3 even rings v1 v16--top.png

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 v3 even rings v1 v16.png
 
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Hey Psych0ticmisfit ! Your model is looking pretty good! Try printing out a photo of the V2 and measure the GRAFLEX Clamp at exactly 2". Then you can take your measurements of the cone knob. It's easier to size the photo in Photoshop against the rulers with guides, but you can also print at different percentages until the GRAFLEX Clamp is 2" long through the center. Or you could buy a cone knob from the record player maker, they've apparently changed the knurling but the rest is supposed to be the same. I think all the info is in the V2 thread if you want to search through it.

Good Luck finishing your models!
 
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Hey @Psych0ticmisfit ! Your model is looking pretty good! Try printing out a photo of the V2 and measure the GRAFLEX Clamp at exactly 2". Then you can take your measurements of the cone knob. It's easier to size the photo in Photoshop against the rulers with guides, but you can also print at different percentages until the GRAFLEX Clamp is 2" long through the center. Or you could buy a cone knob from the record player maker, they've apparently changed the knurling but the rest is supposed to be the same. I think all the info is in the V2 thread if you want to search through it.

Good Luck finishing your models!

Thanks for the help. I have skimmed through that enormous thread. Maybe I need to read through it a little closer. Lol. I’ll do some more studying and comparing of photos before I continue. I do like the look of my model so far though.

Thanks again.




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quick update... made some minor changes all over and then started the clamp. still need to do quite a bit to the clamp, but its looking great. Does anyone know of a way to copy one body in a project and paste it into another project? I really dont want to have to create another clamp for the v3.

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 v22--perspective.png
 
I am almost finished with the clamp. I now have the holes in the sides, i have a screw going through the clamp into the square nut. (actually works). now i need to find the best way to have a working lever but also be easy to print. Next, I need to work on clamp card and the mystery chunk. Then it will be all tightening up measurements and overall details.


Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 v27 --perspective.png
 
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I printed out a prototype the other day. It was very disappointing and completely opposite of what happened with the prototype of the v3. I was unable to screw any parts together but the parts looked great. even the knurled knob looked terrific. I am not sure if it was my model, or my printer. I had just upgraded the extruder and leveled it so maybe that could have caused un-wanted effects on the dimensions of the parts, or maybe the threads are messed up on the model.

Anyway, I will be going back and making changes to the model, need to fix a few minor details and then completely rework the way the parts attach to each other. Maybe move away from threads and figure out an easier to print method.

Any suggestions?
 
Hey Psych0ticmisfit ! Did you try and look for a 'COMBINE' feature in Fusion 360 to see if you could model the threads on one part and then subtract them from the second part once it was overlaid on the first? Again, I don't know if Fusion 360 has the same feature names/sets as Solidworks, but there may be something similar that would help you make your threads align perfectly.

Other ideas would be: print it out with smooth fittings and superglue it, print it out with smooth fittings and use grub screws to fasten it together (hide some under the clamp maybe), or print it out with tabs and channels (a la GRAFLEX) and just slide and turn.

Did you do a test print after setting up your new extruder?

I just found this link two weeks ago about Troubleshooting 3D Printing Problems...
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Keep at it, your models are looking very good!
 
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The way I originally did the threads on the v3 and v2 lightsaber was I would make the cylinder on the male part and then do a combine cut using the cylinder as a tool to cut out the correct depth and shape on the female part. Then I’d add the threading to both. This allowed the correct thread on both parts and made sure the orientation was correct when threaded together. Worked great on the v3. But not on the v2.

This is why I’m thinking it was a printer or filament issue. I printed the v3 with white filament by hatchbox before I made changes to my printers extruder and leveling. The v2 was printed after the printer changes and I used bamtack! Black filament.

I didn’t print a test after making the changes. I think I need to do a test cube or something to fine tune before I print a prototype again. I removed the threads from the model and will either leave it like that or come up with a new way. I have a few ideas in mind. Trying to think of how to do it in fusion360 though. I liked the idea of having the parts thread together Incase I ever got these machines in aluminum, however these will be display only and currently only 3D printed so I guess gluing them together isn’t a terrible option.

Thanks for the suggestions and kind words.

It feels great to see others liking my work. Especially since this is my first time modeling in the last 18 years and first time using fusion 360.




Hey @Psych0ticmisfit ! Did you try and look for a 'COMBINE' feature in Fusion 360 to see if you could model the threads on one part and then subtract them from the second part once it was overlaid on the first? Again, I don't know if Fusion 360 has the same feature names/sets as Solidworks, but there may be something similar that would help you make your threads align perfectly.

Other ideas would be: print it out with smooth fittings and superglue it, print it out with smooth fittings and use grub screws to fasten it together (hide some under the clamp maybe), or print it out with tabs and channels (a la GRAFLEX) and just slide and turn.

Did you do a test print after setting up your new extruder?

I just found this link two weeks ago about Troubleshooting 3D Printing Problems...
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Keep at it, your models are looking very good!




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Then I’d add the threading to both.

That might be where your trouble lies. Try modeling the threads on the male first in its entirety, and then 'COMBINE' it with the otherwise finished female part to make the threads on the female side. Just make sure you have your female part oriented/clocked however it needs to be before combining them, that way your alignment will be perfect! And it's half the work too!

It feels great to see others liking my work.
I'm just setting you up so that you feel obligated to help me out when I get stuck in Fusion 360 once I finally get around to downloading it and trying to figure it out myself. HA! ;):lol

Seriously though, what shade/material do you have set on your model for your V3 renders? I really like how that one presents itself in your images!
 
I will have to try that. I recalibrated my printer the other day and then printed another prototype and still wouldnt thread together. So its definitely the model and not my printer. So im sticking with the press fit currently until i figure out something new.

I am using the default steel material and an aluminum material.

I finally got around to creating the clamp card.

Also, I have a question for anyone who knows... How would I go about getting this design machined in aluminum?

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 v43.png



That might be where your trouble lies. Try modeling the threads on the male first in its entirety, and then 'COMBINE' it with the otherwise finished female part to make the threads on the female side. Just make sure you have your female part oriented/clocked however it needs to be before combining them, that way your alignment will be perfect! And it's half the work too!


I'm just setting you up so that you feel obligated to help me out when I get stuck in Fusion 360 once I finally get around to downloading it and trying to figure it out myself. HA! ;):lol

Seriously though, what shade/material do you have set on your model for your V3 renders? I really like how that one presents itself in your images!
 
Hey Psych0ticmisfit ! I just had another thought about your prints not threading together properly. Do you use a few millimeters of base material added on to the bottom of your model to allow for weight compression of the bottom of the print? I forget what that term is called, but I remember reading about it on Shapeways? website I think.

Hopefully others will chime in too on where you can get this machined, but here's a few machine shops in your area for you to investigate ( I Googled "Machine Shop Madison Wisconsin")...

http://dickinsonmfg.com/
http://swiftmanufacturing.com/
http://www.productionmachine.net/
http://www.madcitymfg.com/

You might also give a call over to the Maker Space at the University of Wisconsin at Madison...
https://making.engr.wisc.edu/

...they may or may not have a lathe. I did a quick scan of their equipment page and didn't see one specifically listed.

You could also try Googling "Prototype Services near me".

Good Luck finding a shop that suits your needs!
 
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I decided to sit down and do some cleanup work on the v2 saber and try to get everything to be a little more accurate. (accurate in my mind at least). I added the extra gap between the pommel and booster, and adjusted the grip and neck dimensions. I also cleaned up the models history timeline a bit. I am liking the changes so far.

I will be going back over the connection points next. I am no longer going with threaded connections. too many hangups with getting that to print correctly. So I will have it all press fit together. That way you can line it all up like you want and can glue it if needed.

I am thinking of making it hollow, this would allow faster printing time and possibly electronics.

What do you guys think?


Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new dimensions.pngLuke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new dimensions-profile.png
 
Much much much better than mine. I'll send over my V2 files as well so you can see the connection points. My goal was to friction fit / glue the pieces together, and then hollow the model out if I wanted electronics. I was inspired by these awesome Obi Wan files: https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=212739

He used some interesting connection points, including keys and lip connections. And people have installed crystal chambers since the main body is hollow. Something like that would be awesome. I do think that it would be beneficial to have the clamp section separate so you can use a genuine / replica Graflex clamp if you wanted.
 
I have the clamp as a separate piece on mine. I will try to get a exploded view to post up here.


I do think that it would be beneficial to have the clamp section separate so you can use a genuine / replica Graflex clamp if you wanted.
 
So I hollowed out the model. I also added the press fit portions of each part. This should work nicely. I hope. lol. i will do a test print in the next few days.

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new-dimensions v14 hollow.png.png
 
Hey Psych0ticmisfit ! The model is looking fantastic! I love the thickness of your walls, this thing in metal would be nice and beefy with no fear of failure!!!

I would change one section though to make it as strong as the rest. Where your V-Grooved Grip meets your Clamp Section, the lip on the clamp side is too thin. I'd let them share the load by making both sections the same thickness there.

I might also change the Lower Windvane Neck where it mates up with the V-Grooved Grip Section. See what adding a ring around the end of the neck tubing would be like. Make it look like an H in cross-section. That piece on a Hale's Grenade is shaped that way, if you're looking for reference to figure out what I'm talking about.

I love how the Clamp Card dangles out in space in your cross-section view! Oh, if you want to shoot for accuracy in your Clamp, make the little LEGO hands/clamp card holder section perfectly square instead of round in the inside of the bend and squarish on the outside.

And I'm curious about what you have included the recess ring inside the Windvane Section for?

Keep at it! You're model is really coming along nicely!

Hey, before I forget to ask, what does "I also cleaned up the models history timeline a bit." involve? It's within the Fusion 360 program, correct? How do you do that and what is the benefit?

Shoot, Gotta Scoot!
 
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Yeah I was thinking that it was too thin as well. I’ll modify that later today.

So I was thinking of making the neck look like the OWK windvane. I may still do that. But I made the recess ring to allow for easier 3d printing. Trying to minimize any overhangs that would require support to print.

The history timeline shows all the changes I have made to the model. So I can easily go back and make changes to things. By cleaning it up and naming the changes I can quickly go back and change or correct things.


I would change one section though to make it as strong as the rest. Where your V-Grooved Grip meets your Clamp Section, the lip on the clamp side is too thin. I'd let them share the load by making both sections the same thickness there.

I might also change the Lower Windvane Neck where it mates up with the V-Grooved Grip Section. See what adding a ring around the end of the neck tubing would be like. Make it look like an H in cross-section. That piece on a Hale's Grenade is shaped that way, if you're looking for reference to figure out what I'm talking about.

And I'm curious about what you have included the recess ring inside the Windvane Section for?

Hey, before I forget to ask, what does "I also cleaned up the models history timeline a bit." involve? It's within the Fusion 360 program, correct? How do you do that and what is the benefit?




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By cleaning it up and naming the changes I can quickly go back and change or correct things.

Got it! I thought that you might have meant there was a way to delete sections of the history timeline (obsolete alterations, etc. ) in order to reduce the file size.

I name layers and sublayers too! It definitely helps me keep track of things.
 
I was finally able to print a new prototype of the hollow design. The tolerances I had in place were not right, I had to do a lot of sanding to get the pieces to fit. So I went back and made changes. I adjusted pieces so they can print with very little support and made a change to the neck to be one piece. I also made the tolerances larger so hopefully there will be no sanding required.

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new-split v29-home-analysis.png
Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new-split v30-home.png
Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v2 new-split v30-side.png
 
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