creative stress
Well-Known Member
Awesome paint job
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Sandbagger's Iron-Man builds - Now in STEEL
- Thread starter sandbagger
- Start date
Rogviler
Well-Known Member
Have you tried the 3M green automotive masking tape? I hate "painter's tapes" because they're usually designed with latex paint in mind and tend to gooify easily. Went through several nightmares with that until I started working at a body shop and I was like "Ah haa..."
-Rog
-Rog
sandbagger
Master Member
I think that's what I have, but I'll check tonight. I know it's green and made for fresh paint jobs. It has a 14 day no peel garauntee on it. It didn't pull the paint surface up, it just left sticky residue. I'll let the paint cure a few days then hit it with a soft cloth and metho.
Rogviler
Well-Known Member
Here's a link to the exact one:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03431-Automotive-Performance-Masking/dp/B004MEH78S
It could very well be called different things in different countries, so that's only what I know it as in the U.S.
The nicest thing about it is that if your forget about it for awhile it still peels up cleanly, unlike the blue stuff that just immediately is a disaster if you leave it more than a few days.
-Rog
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03431-Automotive-Performance-Masking/dp/B004MEH78S
It could very well be called different things in different countries, so that's only what I know it as in the U.S.
The nicest thing about it is that if your forget about it for awhile it still peels up cleanly, unlike the blue stuff that just immediately is a disaster if you leave it more than a few days.
-Rog
sandbagger
Master Member
Thanks man. Yeah, pretty much the same thing. I'll have a look at our local super cheap auto and see what they've got next time.
SB
- - - Updated - - -
I can't use a clear coat on the gold. Clear destroys metallic paint.
I might try it on a trail piece of the red though.
Cheers.
SB
sandbagger
Master Member
It's a pain in the butt trying to get some shed time these days! Seems between ten and midnight a couple of times a week is about all I get anymore!
sandbagger
Master Member
sandbagger
Master Member
Hey bud,
On the painter's tape, you may not be experiencing tape residue! A lot of paints have solvent in the adhesive, which is fine for latex and urethane paint, but not for lacquer or enamel! Tamiya makes tape with no solvents that is low tack, its also crazy expensive...but it does work well!
On the painter's tape, you may not be experiencing tape residue! A lot of paints have solvent in the adhesive, which is fine for latex and urethane paint, but not for lacquer or enamel! Tamiya makes tape with no solvents that is low tack, its also crazy expensive...but it does work well!
sandbagger
Master Member
Thanks mate. I'm onto it.
Spinal plates.
Final panel beating, fill and detailing of the back before painting.
sandbagger
Master Member
Finally got my good friend James in for a few hours tonight to consolodate some of the electronics in the helmet. He managed to reduce our tangled birds-nest of wire down to a very tight little unit.
Still more to go, but very promising so far.
Still more to go, but very promising so far.
sandbagger
Master Member
Nearly ready to paint the back. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon/night.
sandbagger
Master Member
To all my painter friends. I am using Duplicolor metalcast for iron man. It is the perfect colour and finish and the one I want to use.
I'm looking for a compatible clear coat to go hard on the outside and protect it. Anyone had any experience with the can on the right?
I just sprayed it over a test piece of the red metalcast and the clear completely melted the colour away, even though the red had cured for over 24 hours.
I'm getting a little sick of spending money on **** that doesn't work. The guy at supercheap auto said it was made for it and would work fine.
I'm looking for a compatible clear coat to go hard on the outside and protect it. Anyone had any experience with the can on the right?
I just sprayed it over a test piece of the red metalcast and the clear completely melted the colour away, even though the red had cured for over 24 hours.
I'm getting a little sick of spending money on **** that doesn't work. The guy at supercheap auto said it was made for it and would work fine.
sandbagger
Master Member
It's amazing how much bogging and sanding you can do thinking it's super-smooth. Then you hit it with a shiny paint and all the lumps and bumps show up.
There comes a point where you say, "Stuff it, there's only so much time taken from my family I can justify, and I've already pushed it too far." Next goes the red.
There comes a point where you say, "Stuff it, there's only so much time taken from my family I can justify, and I've already pushed it too far." Next goes the red.
max headroom
Active Member
Duplicolor makes a clear for its paint. I've had trouble with the solvents attacking the base color. Very light thin coats of clear seemed to be the answer for me. A lot more time spraying parts but fewer sand and resprays. Good luck and still digging your build. A true artist
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creative stress
Well-Known Member
That happen quite a lot and can be frustrating been following this from begining its awesome love it ☺
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Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I don't have experience with that clear coat in particular but on the can of the metalcast I believe it says to recoat within an hour or after 7 days. With non catalyzed paints there are trapped solvents under the hardened top coat that take time to evaporate out of the tiny pores in the paint. I thought I could get away with spraying clear over my Captain America shield a couple days later and the clear wrinkled all the translucent blue and red to the point where I had to strip it and reshoot it. My recommendation is don't clear coat it. My captain shield has held up fantastic at events and even blocked a couple thrown cans of silly string without damaging the color. Something that is going to scratch the red is probably going to make it through a rattle can clear just the same as it usually doesn't provide a lot of build.
Ouch, same thing happened to me a few days ago when I wanted to add a clearcoat to a painted belt buckle... Fortunately it was just a 3D print and I had made two (just in case) and only clearcoated one. I checked the can after I noticed it was all melting away and the clearcoat contained xylene.
If it's any consolation, I went to some Harrison Krix presentations at Wizard World and apparently this kind of stuff happens even to the pros.
dedguy
Member
First this is looking even better painted. I thought I'd prefer the raw metal and it would be a shame to see it covered up but I retract my previous sentiment.
Second, I'm glad I'm not the only one who runs into paint interaction issues. I've kinda gotten to the point where I just use nothing but acrylics so I don't have to even worry about it.
Second, I'm glad I'm not the only one who runs into paint interaction issues. I've kinda gotten to the point where I just use nothing but acrylics so I don't have to even worry about it.
