Roman's Empire TFA "Maz Saber"!

These replicas look great, I like your weathering. Have you thought about the gestures that those marks indicate though? If you use sandpaper etc it just looks like it has been weathered with sandpaper. I put my V2 in a bag of tools and some screws etc and shook it around. It had the random scratching and absence of a human hand that looks more authentic.

Also leave it out in the garden for a little while, just sitting out. If you use some pigments in the cracks (tamiya weathering kits are good for this) and it rains you are in for a treat - sticky dust in the right places. I think about weathering too much :lol.

Just dragging stuff across a table looks good as well, as does rubbing stuff with normal paper (not sandpaper). Newspaper especially, you get some black ink that looks like general grime left behind - but don't rub too hard or you will get directionality again (the appearance that it has been rubbed with sandpaper).

I have a real graflex saber with some genuine photographer miles on it if you want some pics of how the graflex finish weathers. Please don't touch it with sandpaper :lol

top.jpg


Between the grips on the saber in maz's box scene there looks to be some pigment, the stuff above is good. "Oil stain" or "mud" colours look about right.

edit: you can also achieve a brass patina for real by removing the brass components and doing this with some vinegar or ammonia fumes:

blogger-image-209482554.jpg


The vapor darkens the brass, don't actually dip the parts into the chemicals or it will be obvious you faked it with fluids. Let the vapor do the work

(picture from this site here: http://www.thetimebum.com/2014/07/guest-blogger-patina-science.html)

If the brass has a lacquer coating over it, you will have to remove it first.

If you can't remove those little pins, soak your fingers in vinegar and let them dry off, then twist your fingers around the pins. Enough acidity to darken unprotected brass without getting liquid marks.
 
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These replicas look great, I like your weathering. Have you thought about the gestures that those marks indicate though? If you use sandpaper etc it just looks like it has been weathered with sandpaper. I put my V2 in a bag of tools and some screws etc and shook it around. It had the random scratching and absence of a human hand that looks more authentic.

Also leave it out in the garden for a little while, just sitting out. If you use some pigments in the cracks (tamiya weathering kits are good for this) and it rains you are in for a treat - sticky dust in the right places. I think about weathering too much :lol.

Just dragging stuff across a table looks good as well, as does rubbing stuff with normal paper (not sandpaper). Newspaper especially, you get some black ink that looks like general grime left behind - but don't rub too hard or you will get directionality again (the appearance that it has been rubbed with sandpaper).

I have a real graflex saber with some genuine photographer miles on it if you want some pics of how the graflex finish weathers. Please don't touch it with sandpaper :lol

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/top.jpg

Between the grips on the saber in maz's box scene there looks to be some pigment, the stuff above is good. "Oil stain" or "mud" colours look about right.

edit: you can also achieve a brass patina for real by removing the brass components and doing this with some vinegar or ammonia fumes:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-.../_Z7lKLhYNrU/s640/blogger-image-209482554.jpg

The vapor darkens the brass, don't actually dip the parts into the chemicals or it will be obvious you faked it with fluids. Let the vapor do the work

(picture from this site here: http://www.thetimebum.com/2014/07/guest-blogger-patina-science.html)

If the brass has a lacquer coating over it, you will have to remove it first.

If you can't remove those little pins, soak your fingers in vinegar and let them dry off, then twist your fingers around the pins. Enough acidity to darken unprotected brass without getting liquid marks.

I appreciate the feedback.

2 points I feeel I should respond to / clarify regarding what I suppose is critical feedback:


1. My weathering was not done by rubbing the prop with sandpaper; I am not sure where that assessment has been made. I used several methods, as outlined, keeping in mind what "history" of the use of the prop this might tell.

2. I am familiar with the amonia vapor method to add patina to brass and regularly use it to add a patina to larger brass parts, like communicator lids. In this case, I elected to use the brass blackener for these smaller brass parts. This was simply a matter of choice vs. proceeding from blind ignorance. By the way, I must point out, if you actually "dip" the piece in the amonia liquid, it doesn't make it obvious that you have used amonia, it actually REMOVES the patina achieved with the use of the vapor--try it and you will see.

Thank you for the feedback and tips.
 
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I appreciate the feedback.

2 points I feeel I should respond to / clarify regarding what I suppose is critical feedback:


1. My weathering was not done by rubbing the prop with sandpaper; I am not sure where that assessment has been made. I used several methods, as outlined, keeping in mind what "history" of the use of the prop this might tell.

2. I am familiar with the amonia vapor method to add patina to brass and regularly use it to add a patina to larger brass parts, like communicator lids. In this case, I elected to use the brass blackener for these smaller brass parts. This was simply a matter of choice vs. proceeding from blind ignorance. By the way, I must point out, if you actually "dip" the piece in the amonia liquid, it doesn't make it obvious that you have used amonia, it actually REMOVES the patina achieved with the use of the vapor--try it and you will see.

Thank you for the feedback and tips.

Sorry, it isn't sandpaper I meant, I was referring to scouring but I mistakingly lumped it with sanding. I find it looks like something has been aggressively cleaned at some point in its life sometimes. The dipping not looking authentic was in reference to what I and some others used to/still do which is thinking a dunk in the chemical and leaving it to dry will do the job. You end up with fluvial marks and it looks way off compared to the vapor method which is like a fast forwarding of real life.

Critical feedback is good otherwise the forum is just a show off shop. I have learned a lot from members here commenting on methods in my posts and those of others. I'm not being a dick, I promise. Read this post in a goofy voice instead of a mean one.

By the way, I'm curious about the story you are going for - is it to be weathered like a prop? (production made weathering + accidental dings) or as a "real" object plucked from the galaxy? (Like the symmetrical vs asymmetrical stormtrooper helmet dilemma - prop replica or lightsaber replica?). It's interesting to see which way people go.
 
These replicas look great, I like your weathering. Have you thought about the gestures that those marks indicate though? If you use sandpaper etc it just looks like it has been weathered with sandpaper. I put my V2 in a bag of tools and some screws etc and shook it around. It had the random scratching and absence of a human hand that looks more authentic.

Also leave it out in the garden for a little while, just sitting out. If you use some pigments in the cracks (tamiya weathering kits are good for this) and it rains you are in for a treat - sticky dust in the right places. I think about weathering too much :lol.

Just dragging stuff across a table looks good as well, as does rubbing stuff with normal paper (not sandpaper). Newspaper especially, you get some black ink that looks like general grime left behind - but don't rub too hard or you will get directionality again (the appearance that it has been rubbed with sandpaper).

I have a real graflex saber with some genuine photographer miles on it if you want some pics of how the graflex finish weathers. Please don't touch it with sandpaper :lol

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/top.jpg

Between the grips on the saber in maz's box scene there looks to be some pigment, the stuff above is good. "Oil stain" or "mud" colours look about right.

edit: you can also achieve a brass patina for real by removing the brass components and doing this with some vinegar or ammonia fumes:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-.../_Z7lKLhYNrU/s640/blogger-image-209482554.jpg

The vapor darkens the brass, don't actually dip the parts into the chemicals or it will be obvious you faked it with fluids. Let the vapor do the work

(picture from this site here: http://www.thetimebum.com/2014/07/guest-blogger-patina-science.html)

If the brass has a lacquer coating over it, you will have to remove it first.

If you can't remove those little pins, soak your fingers in vinegar and let them dry off, then twist your fingers around the pins. Enough acidity to darken unprotected brass without getting liquid marks.

Some great advice, I'm going to have to pick up that weathering kit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry, it isn't sandpaper I meant, I was referring to scouring but I mistakingly lumped it with sanding. I find it looks like something has been aggressively cleaned at some point in its life sometimes. The dipping not looking authentic was in reference to what I and some others used to/still do which is thinking a dunk in the chemical and leaving it to dry will do the job. You end up with fluvial marks and it looks way off compared to the vapor method which is like a fast forwarding of real life.

Critical feedback is good otherwise the forum is just a show off shop. I have learned a lot from members here commenting on methods in my posts and those of others. I'm not being a dick, I promise. Read this post in a goofy voice instead of a mean one.

By the way, I'm curious about the story you are going for - is it to be weathered like a prop? (production made weathering + accidental dings) or as a "real" object plucked from the galaxy? (Like the symmetrical vs asymmetrical stormtrooper helmet dilemma - prop replica or lightsaber replica?). It's interesting to see which way people go.

Some good tips, thanks for sharing :thumbsup
 
Thank you ALLEY, I just ordered this beauty and can't wait to get my hands on it. How long did it take to get to you after you placed your order?

Thanks!
 
You have chosen wisely...

I had it in my hands within 3-4 days of placing the order.

Thank you ALLEY, I just ordered this beauty and can't wait to get my hands on it. How long did it take to get to you after you placed your order?

Thanks!
 
Awesome! After converting my ANH black series and configuring my Graflex 2.0 into an ESB, I figured it was time to acquire the newest version. Thanks for this thread, guys.
 
I received mine a few days ago and am delighted. Quality is top notch! The only change I made to it is that I purchased a pommel end-cap cover from SkyWampa on Etsy to cover the Graflex inscription. Fit like a charm.

Thanks, Roman!
 
I will modify one similar maz saber for a friend soon.
I designed my clear board for her in the first time.
I think the best here is to use the wannawanga clamp cover, kobold clip and cap cover, but not the grips.
About grips, keep the romans but sanding them to remove the cast mold details.
About rivets or bolts,modify the actual romans bold with a flat head instead of rounded one.
About glass eye, the way it has been sanded down is wrong to me, too much sanding and with a too coarse grit, maybe just making a better finish on it would be ok, not sure.
In all cases, it's a deal for 199$, just some mods and it looks very good.
For myself I will try to get a real graflex but use graflex 2.0 grips, they look similar to romans ones, with fully rounded inside.
 
nice work here. i have one of the Maz versions as well from Roman and am very pleased to get such a nice display model for the price.
 
IMG_5457.PNG

Here is my modded maz saber, here are the changes:
-modified apparent brass glass eye, I removed the grinded finish for a more realistic damaged look
-replaced plastic bulb holder for aluminum blade holder (the customer wants it with a blade)
-weathered the cotter pins
-added wannawanga sleeve and cap
-replaced kobold D ring
-sanded the grips to remove cast finish, and painted them a bit.
-shaved down the bolts for a accurate flat head look, but keeping them, because I think these are bolts on original maz saber
-general soft weathering with scotch brite
-replaced wrong sloth board for a vintage HP board for the picture, waiting for the clear boards from my run to be available.
 
View attachment 736786

Here is my modded maz saber, here are the changes:
-modified apparent brass glass eye, I removed the grinded finish for a more realistic damaged look
-replaced plastic bulb holder for aluminum blade holder (the customer wants it with a blade)
-weathered the cotter pins
-added wannawanga sleeve and cap
-replaced kobold D ring
-sanded the grips to remove cast finish, and painted them a bit.
-shaved down the bolts for a accurate flat head look, but keeping them, because I think these are bolts on original maz saber
-general soft weathering with scotch brite
-replaced wrong sloth board for a vintage HP board for the picture, waiting for the clear boards from my run to be available.


beautiful!
 
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