Zvezda 1/2700 Imperial Star Destroyer – WIP

Thanks, though I don't feel like I've done much considering what lay ahead. I was talking to Guns Akimbo about those bells...I guess I need to look at that a bit more.

Just for you lol.

tGiwiFu.jpg

JiRenwY.jpg


As a side note, you can see between the outer baffle ring and the main bell on the 3D part. The stock part is solid in that area.
 
Yeah, lol...I ordered a set. Gotta do these right since it's in honor of our "gone but not forgotten". I've been quite lucky with drill bits so far. I think I've drilled over 200 holes so far and only broke one bit on like hole #10. I did kinda screw up with the first trench wall though. I was notching the upper and lower to make room for the FO, and I trimmed down flush which made a gap light could come through. easily fixed with evergreen stock so there is only 8 places to fix. Good thing I noticed it now. I'm also doing .25mm for the most of the holes. I did a test with the first hole I drilled and the FO lights really well. So I figured I could make a lot more with smaller FO, thus being able to stuff more FO in the gathering tubes on the end of the LED's. I'll do some .50mm in the spots where it should be larger (looking at reference pics). I'm also using some .75mm and 1mm in the places where the "windows" look to be a long rectangle. taking the larger FO and mash it with flat, smooth jaw pliers. It worked well on the Falcons in a few places in the cockpit lighting that there were "bar" shapes.

I just ordered that set from Falcon 3D. I was going to wait - but as you noted these builds are in dedication to our lost members who gave so much encouragement and helpful advice - how can we not do our best?

I started the greebie additions to the port-side trenches. I am raising up the trench height a fraction and in so doing, have space to add more detail to the trenches. I attempted to mimic the ILM 8- footer but that is going to be an impossibility to do at this scale. So, carving out new overhangs and recessed gun ports and piping to approximate the detail is the best I can do.

Port Trench Bow.JPG


I also began drilling holes for FO. I too am going use .25MM for the majority with a few .5MM for the larger lighted areas with some Pico LEDs to augment the floods in the trenches.

I am using a tiny micro drill with .30 MM tungsten micro bits from Daewon Industries - and broke 4, two of them when the drill fell off the worktable and the other two when pushing too hard into the plastic. I've discovered the best way to drill is to create starter holes with my X-acto blade and then let the drill dig itself into the plastic and on through without pushing.

The pin vice I also used for some hard to reach areas takes about 5 times as long to drill one hole, so this micro drill and set is a blessing.

I had not thought to using even larger FO and squashing it flat with pliers to create rectangle shapes. I will be very interested to see how yours looks when you get to that point.
 
i have been using a stick pin in a micro drill chuck on a different project. I cut the head of the pin off and if it dulls a little I replace it. I agree it works great for the drill bits to start and stay on track. I am using #78 drill.
 
nice start, my ISD is still waiting its turn in the line-up. I have the falcon3d engine bells and they were well worth the money compared to the kit parts. subscribed
I was planning to get those for my build but it was mentioned on another forum that those particular engine bells are prone to warping unless stored carefully until they are painted. I think they look wonderful but that is some cause for concern for me. If they can warp just by being placed on a tavle, how long with they hold up mounted sideways with only primer and paint to stabilize them?
 
I was planning to get those for my build but it was mentioned on another forum that those particular engine bells are prone to warping unless stored carefully until they are painted. I think they look wonderful but that is some cause for concern for me. If they can warp just by being placed on a tavle, how long with they hold up mounted sideways with only primer and paint to stabilize them?

That's a first for me, what forum was this from? Mine were shipped to me in a small poster tube (really small of course!) and cushioned with small wads of tissue paper. I really can't see them warping either in there, or even on a model, unless they deliberately exposed to heat and/or UV light. But then that caution applies in part to polystyrene plastic anyway...you wouldn't display it in a window that receives constant sunlight, or anywhere near a heater. If PLA is indeed susceptible to such warping I guess I'll discover that soon enough. :p
 
Interesting. Well, these are mine, got them at least two months ago and have been stored in that tube in my spares box. They're still round.
 

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this is such a great kit - it goes together like magic compared to the old MPC version - Zvezda have really treated the Star Destroyer fans with such a great sized kit - enjoying your build

May the Force be with you.
 
Hi gents that was me over on Britmodeller with the distorted 3D engines - they kept changing shape as our UK weather changed seasons. Once I got them through a good clean with some SHL and instantly primed 3 times, they held their shape.

I've bought a lot of star destroyer 3D printed parts for my Randy Cooper, Anigrand and Zvezda star destroyers and those Falcon 3D parts are definitely some of the best on the market
 
say dude, did you see where Invar is adding greeblies to his trenches? looks great but I don't think I'm gonna try to tackle that this time around.

I did indeed and it looks great. :eek My Zvezda might get tiny bits of Evergreen styrene strips and rods for detailing at most. Now, something like the big Randy Cooper resin model would be a perfect candidate to go crazy on with greeblie detailing.

Gimme Shelter, good to hear your side of the warping issue story. I suspected that your weather over the pond definitely played a part.
 
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