ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

I actually built an ESB Muppet blaster on a Lytle cast aluminum mauser instead of resin.

The ESB stunt blasters, if y'all remember, use the ANH Hero as a base gun. I cut and installed my own Bull Barrel out of 7/8" thick walled aluminum tube. I cut the bevels with a rough flat metal file and a dremel sanding drum.

In order to install it, I STILL had to remove material, even though Lytle's are casts of real mausers.

Believe it or not, I used a dremel cutting disc to make clean cuts and mark my edges, and then brought the cutting disc sideways barrel tip to body to remove material in front of my cuts. Metal files took care of the rest.

Post #33-35
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=233164&page=2
 
I know for some building the Heat Sink Grille from the 3 cylinders can be a pain so I recently designed them up in master cam. I did two designs..

First is as close to film accurate (subjective of course) as I could come using my own cylinders I recently cut up as a template..
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The second is more close to what you would see straight off an assembly line at “BlasTech Industries”. Pictures are of the design I was going for for this model. I also modified the inside of this second design so fits perfectly onto a denix (or MGC) with the bottom two sticking out marginally father than the top..
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I think I got it pretty good. Even taking into account that not all the fines are equally spaced..
 
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The DEC kit is made for a Denix but the bevels are off a bit because the Denix receiver is a little taller.

You need to file down or grind away the area material in RED to allow the sleeve barrel to slid down the that point. Only the small area between the GREEN lines on the Mauser bevels should show.

You can use tape on the area behind the area to grind to make a straight edge.

Once ground back, you can flatten the top a bit and reshape the bevels a bit to match and line up with the Bull Barrel bevels. The material is there. I did it on my Denix too.

The Bull Barrel was not specifically shaped for the Denix because of the sloppy tolerances. We also figured that the Bull Barrel bevels could be reshaped to match the Denix bevels.

On the original prop, when the re-barreled the c96 for a tapered rifle barrel as used in Naked Runner, the edges needed to be "broken" or smoothed so it would not have sharp edges. So they simply beveled the edges sticking up.

If you fit the barrel to the Denix first, then you can file the bull barrel bevels to match the Denix bevels. (PURPLE)

At least this gives you some options.

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Thanks kpax for sharing this info. I reworked both my MGC and denix to get it more in line with what you have shared..
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These came out pretty good I️ believe. The design in these first few pics still need to be modified a bit but it should be a nice alternative to using the 3 cylinders if you have trouble cutting them that is.

Bottom part in these pictures is of an actual cylinder while the top is the reproduction. I️ designed these to be reflective of how the grille sits on the actual film prop. The fins are not evenly spread out as well [emoji106]
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These last two pics are a little different in design than the first few and fit male/female directly onto a denix. This would be the straight off the blastech industries shelves version as everything lines up..
 
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Hello. I just got a really nice ANH blaster and I had a question about the scope. I noticed it too far forward, which I can fix, but I also noticed the range finder on the top not being completely perpendicular to the rest of the weapon - the scope is set off at an angle so that the range finder is pointing slightly towards the barrel. Is this how it should be, or should it be completely perpendicular? Thanks.
 
Looks like a Todd’s blaster u have there. Just unscrew (or just loosen) the top mount and adjust the scope how ever you would like. If it’s built properly then this should take u 2 seconds and ur good to go [emoji106]
 
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It's not the best photo, but you can see how the scope rangefinder is pointing at an angle, and not straight down in this photo.

check out the top of the scope mount. There are two rings, and the top halves of each ring are held on by slotted screws. loosen them a few turns, bit by bit (screw 1, screw 2, screw 1, screw 2, etc) and the scope should be able to be adjusted. tighten them back up the same way!
 
that's because of the real amuser's tapered forward magazine.
I think he used the word rangefinder to mean the adjustment dial on top of the scope. It's just rotated a few degrees in it's cradle :unsure

that tapered magazine area makes the ESB blasters a bit more angular in profile, since they only sit on the front of the gun.
 

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