Tom's: Gary Kurtz Darth Vader Stunt Lightsaber

Dann · Oct 23, 2016

juajn7fernandez said:
Yup. I've been meaning to mention that, but was waiting to receive my own Strobonar ( still in the mail). Also I dont thing there is a screw on the top. there doesnt seem to be a reference point as to how much to trim from the top. However from the back it looks like they removed the slanted portion. Here are the only reference pictures I've gotten so far.

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( My apologies for the lack of credits on the pics. I cant remember who posted each of them)

Are there no photos of the back end of this saber?

It also seems like only one of the grips has an ESB style notch cut into it. Weird.

In some of the shots, the "plate" covering the underside where the two flashes join looks thin enough that it could be aluminum tape, in other shots it looks like it may be a little thicker. I'll probably use aluminum tape for mine.

I may also use plain old black gaff tape wrapped around the strobonar to mimic the "clamp". I'll probably scratch build the control box, wiper part and d ring holder using aluminum and sheet styrene. Looks like some aluminum U channel could possibly be used for the circuit board holder. I'll check Ace hardware for some of that, or maybe a hobby store.

Definitely want some saber freak T track, and will probably use tiny rivets on the grips. I can't wait to get started, the only bummer is my strobonar has a couple nasty scars on it.

Dann · Oct 25, 2016

It almost looks like the D ring holder could be two pieces sandwiched together, when I look at this photo. I can see a possible seam line running the length of it.

Anyway, here's my progress so far. Thanks to a special friend for helping me with my slave unit! (Not sure if I should mention his name here, or not, but you know who you are and I'm eternally grateful!)

I need to do more work on the shroud, and I was playing around with silver paint ideas. This is sort of a test fit.

Starbored · Oct 25, 2016

What is the found part you used for the shroud?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Dann · Oct 25, 2016

It's from the bulb holder on the Strobonar.

Here's some updated photos of the shroud.

I hope I'm not stepping on Tom's toes by posting my progress here! If you'd rather I start my own thread, Tom, I'd be more than happy to!

juajn7fernandez · Oct 25, 2016

Dann , thats looking great! I'm dying here waiting for my parts wanting to get started already.

Looking at the reference shots I think the shroud could be trimmed a bit from the top ( where you add the plastic square). Its just a tad really.

Dann · Oct 25, 2016

juajn7fernandez said:
@Dann , thats looking great! I'm dying here waiting for my parts wanting to get started already.

Looking at the reference shots I think the shroud could be trimmed a bit from the top ( where you add the plastic square). Its just a tad really.

Thanks!

Yeah, I'm thinking the same. I may hit it lightly with the belt sander.

juajn7fernandez · Oct 25, 2016

Here is my crude illustration to show where I find it most noticeable that its been trimmed. If you look at the top edge on the side with the two smaller holes, the one closest to the slanted side, you can see that there is a bit more space between edges on the original prop. If you leave that top on at its original height, there is barely any space between those edges. Also the two smaller holes look squared on the original prop and a bit more rectangular on the unaltered shrouds.

My illustration is rather crude but it helps clear up what I'm trying to explain.

Dann · Oct 25, 2016

juajn7fernandez said:
Here is my crude illustration to show where I find it most noticeable that its been trimmed. If you look at the top edge on the side with the two smaller holes, the one closest to the slanted side, you can see that there is a bit more space between edges on the original prop. If you leave that top on at its original height, there is barely any space between those edges. Also the two smaller holes look squared on the original prop and a bit more rectangular on the unaltered shrouds.

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My illustration is rather crude but it helps clear up what I'm trying to explain.

Yah, I absolutely see what you're seeing.

thd9791 · Oct 26, 2016

I love all the different pictures in this thread! and yea, I see the emitter thing too. I definitely think they cut the rear of the shroud where it steps and goes slanted right up against the saber body. I removed that on mine with a mini hacksaw and it looks great. Not sure how you would sand down the entire box uniformly if thats a thing...It could just be the angle of the photo, the open box on the other side still looks pretty tall.

The D ring box is DEFINITELY built in layers. it's built the same way as the energizer buynny box and I have a casting of that here. There are layers and the energizer bunny shroud/shoulder is also built in layers :lol

Dann · Oct 26, 2016

Awesome info, Tom!

Any chance we can sneak a peek at some of those energizer saber details?

Marv · Oct 26, 2016

thd9791 said:
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Thanks to Anakin Starkiller I found out the main body of the saber consisted of a Heiland Strobonar and a Graflex Slave. The strobonar is disassembled and the grey plastic ring supporting the flashlight-type head is slid around the graflex. I dipped mine in boiling water and it expanded and slid on perfectly.

How did you disassemble it mine has a couple of rivets holding this on?

Dann · Oct 26, 2016

For the strobonar disassembly, I just unscrewed every screw I saw, can't recall whether there were rivets, but if there were, I would've ground them off with a dremel.

I wonder if the base of the control box is a doorbell housing...

thd9791 · Oct 26, 2016

Marv said:
How did you disassemble it mine has a couple of rivets holding this on?

The metal crossbar should have a flat head attaching it to a right angle bracket of sorts

As for the crossbar and the tube, with the metal brackets separate, it should slide out horizontally.

I should have some pics here of the D ring on the energizer saber.

Dann · Oct 27, 2016

Thanks for these photos, Tom!! Very interesting!

So, what do y'all think about the length of the "clamp" band and the control box? Somewhere between 1.75" and 2"?

I'm pretty sure there are seven grips on this sucker, the spacing kinda gives that away.

Tomorrow I'm gonna try my hand at scratch building the windshield wiper part and the D ring holder. I'm using a chunk of aluminum for the D ring holder, but I'd really rather do a layered thing like the original, just not sure what I'd use, other than sheet styrene.

Dann · Oct 27, 2016

Here's where I'm at right now. Liberated the saber freak grips from a custom lightsaber I have, just to see how they look.

Wrapped some gaff tape for the clamp band, not sure if it's long enough. I had a thinner section added for a minute, to lengthen it, but ended up removing it.

Used some thin sheet aluminum for the plate under the emitter. I also slightly shortened the top of the shroud, but not much.

Ignore all the chipped and flaked paint, for now. I'll probably end up using the airbrush for this, once it's all done.

Now, to work on the D ring holder and the wiper part!

NeoRutty · Oct 27, 2016

I like it...

I feel like the band is rubber hose from car parts or something... have yet to visit a shop and see if anything comes close.

Dann · Oct 27, 2016

Definitely rubber. Perhaps that, and the wiper part both came from the same Volvo with the HIC parts...

I'm also beginning to think the grips are closer to 4". They look longer than your standard Luke or Vader ANH length.

Decided to use a styrene sandwich to build up the D ring holder and made a quick and dirty attempt at the base of the control box.

Lichtbringer · Oct 27, 2016

I really like this saber variant - to bad i have not a single one of the needed parts.

Dann · Oct 27, 2016

This one's growing on me, for sure. Used to think it was so ugly, but I like the way it was constructed.

"I need you to make a Vader stunt saber, using whatever we've got left from the parts bins. Doesn't have to be perfect, just get it close! By the way, we need it for the next shot, so you've got an hour!"

Dann · Oct 28, 2016

Here's an update!

Finished the D ring holder, went with M3 screws, just because I had them around from the Han Hoth gun build. Looks like the real thing may have rivets, and the rear one is too far back to line up with the rear hole from the bunny ears. I didn't wanna drill another hole in the Graflex slave, so I just used the two bunny ear holes. Looks like that's what they did on the energizer saber, anyway. (EDIT: What am I talking about?! The Energizer saber didn't even use a Graflex slave!)

My control box needs work. It's too tall, and hasn't got all the detail of the real one. The more I compare with the original, it looks like my control box may be a hair too long, as well. We need to try and figure out that assembly! For the card slot, I cut some small aluminum square tube from Lowe's, but the wall thickness isn't right. The circuit card is a placeholder. It's a cut down Luke ROTJ card from a Rylo run long ago. I had an extra. It's also got eleven gold lines, while the real saber has only ten. This may or may not be a hint that my box is too long...

At this point, it's obvious which part scares me the most! How are y'all building your wiper parts? Sheet aluminum? Styrene? If you use sheet aluminum, how do you get the bends so nice?!!! juajn7fernandez, I'm looking at you, here!!

Tom's: Gary Kurtz Darth Vader Stunt Lightsaber

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