1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

I was looking further into a dimmable solution and I may not use the IR ones and go with one of these solutions instead:

This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-IN-LIN...296280?hash=item2393216b58:g:0BcAAOSwmphaD9fg


This one is in line an has switches on it to control brightness. Since I have mine where I can open it I can adjust brightness to what I like and leave alone. I have to find out if last setting is saved when powered off. I have message into seller to clarify this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-ULTRA...897609&hash=item2a8abfde6f:g:TG0AAOSwT6pVk9Hm
[/QUOTE]

Big Thanks for mentioning and linking to these! I ordered several RF in line dimmers from China as they appeared to be the same, but less expensive. They arrived yesterday. I quickly cobbled together a 6 v battery pack and one LED with a resistor and just loosely hand twisted the connections. And it worked!

Before the last remaining Radio Shack here closed last month, I went in to pick the one clerks brain. He was an engineering student who was generally pretty helpful in the past in steering me to certain solutions. I asked him if there was some kind of simple RF or IR solution that I could use to hook up to a series of LEDs for simple remote on/off with these models. "Nope". He said apart from the the cumbersome AC solutions, they didn't make anything like that.

Not only does this solution exist after all, but it's dirt cheap to boot!

Now that I know they are legit, I'll probably order another five or ten.
 
I bought both but ended up using the one with the remote. I'm using 3 of these only to dim certain sections if necessary main light, hangar & engines separately. Once set I will leave them as is.

I have a 6 channel RF switch that channels 1-3 can be set for momentary operation and channels 4-6 can be set for On/Off operation that I will be using to turn sections on and off and operate weapons and sound clips.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6CH-Re...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I'm glad you were able to use them



Big Thanks for mentioning and linking to these! I ordered several RF in line dimmers from China as they appeared to be the same, but less expensive. They arrived yesterday. I quickly cobbled together a 6 v battery pack and one LED with a resistor and just loosely hand twisted the connections. And it worked!

Before the last remaining Radio Shack here closed last month, I went in to pick the one clerks brain. He was an engineering student who was generally pretty helpful in the past in steering me to certain solutions. I asked him if there was some kind of simple RF or IR solution that I could use to hook up to a series of LEDs for simple remote on/off with these models. "Nope". He said apart from the the cumbersome AC solutions, they didn't make anything like that.

Not only does this solution exist after all, but it's dirt cheap to boot!

Now that I know they are legit, I'll probably order another five or ten.[/QUOTE]
 
Over the weekend I primed all sub-assemblies, cleaned up more wiring in main section and started work on placement and wiring of the 6 channel RF switch. I'm waiting to get back my sound and weapons board so I can see where that needs to be placed so I can't close up the top and bottom just yet. I did not prime the trench area yet. I also started on building the base in between all of this.

I may paint all the sub-assemblies with the Corax white then assemble the top and bottom half along with the engine block. Once dry carefully cover the top and bottom then prime and paint the trench and engine block seams. It was definitely easier to prime the sub-assemblies instead of the whole ship at once. The only thing I will have to do when it's fully assembled is apply the wash, clear coat and snip the FO

Here are some pictures of the sub-assemblies before priming. I forgot take pictures after priming. I will try to take some tonight and post tomorrow.

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looks awesome dude! looking forward to seeing it come together :thumbsup
Over the weekend I primed all sub-assemblies, cleaned up more wiring in main section and started work on placement and wiring of the 6 channel RF switch. I'm waiting to get back my sound and weapons board so I can see where that needs to be placed so I can't close up the top and bottom just yet. I did not prime the trench area yet. I also started on building the base in between all of this.

I may paint all the sub-assemblies with the Corax white then assemble the top and bottom half along with the engine block. Once dry carefully cover the top and bottom then prime and paint the trench and engine block seams. It was definitely easier to prime the sub-assemblies instead of the whole ship at once. The only thing I will have to do when it's fully assembled is apply the wash, clear coat and snip the FO

Here are some pictures of the sub-assemblies before priming. I forgot take pictures after priming. I will try to take some tonight and post tomorrow.

View attachment 791049 View attachment 791050 View attachment 791051 View attachment 791052

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it's at home of course, seems like it was called model maker or something, but my guy at the hobby shop was out of it the last time I needed more and he told me just to go to the art supply and get black water color paste in the tube, and mix that with water and that works the same...and its cheaper. also you can adjust how dark or light you want it
Since I'm getting close to painting........what brand paint did you use for the dark wash?
 
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
 
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!

If you haven’t already , check out a guy - Cosplay Chris on YouTube . He’s a big proponent of kiwi shoe polish for his projects too !;)

Ged
 
Hmm...I wonder why I was always under the impression that shoe polish was oil based? ...cause I'm stupid most likely :wacko :lol
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
 
Do you seal with a clear coat after your done all the painting and washes?

Not sure how the cheap acrylic or water based shoe polish will hold up with a clear lacquer applied over it.

It's no problem with Tamiya acrylics but never tried a lacquer clear coat over any of others mentioned



I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
 
Hmm...I wonder why I was always under the impression that shoe polish was oil based? ...cause I'm stupid most likely :wacko :lol

The black leather dye is water soluble until it dries. Then it is water resistant. It is NOT oil based, as far as I can tell.

Another option is to simply use some black acrylic paint watered down for a wash. The plus with that is you can add other colors to create rust-washes and other hues instead of just black or smoke.

I always shoot a layer of Pledge Floor Care (Future) over my primer or base coat before I begin adding layers of weathering or other color enhancements like hull plating. It enables me to add washes without the worry of them seeping into the base layer of paint in case I need to strip it due to a mistake. Often as I finish each layer of weathering or washes, I shoot another coat to seal in my work.

Once the Future is dried you can then spray lacquer the entire ship with dull coat, gloss or whatever other treatment you want without risking the work already completed.
 
Do you seal with a clear coat after your done all the painting and washes?

Not sure how the cheap acrylic or water based shoe polish will hold up with a clear lacquer applied over it.

It's no problem with Tamiya acrylics but never tried a lacquer clear coat over any of others mentioned

Given the negative reaction of Bandai plastics reacting badly to lacquers and other clear coats - I have made it my practice to always seal my work in Future (Pledge Floor Care) before using any lacquers, no matter the kit manufacturer. Since I have a layer of future both under and over a shoe polish wash, I don't worry about the wash holding up. I no longer have need to use a lacquer clear coat when using Future, because that does the job of a clear coat. The only lacquer clear coat I need to use is when I need a dull coat to trim down the gloss from the Future.

Also, if you are using decals - I have found that Future is easier to work with and provides better results than solvent-based decal setters like MicroSol.
 
Thanks for all the info. I paint mostly with lacquer and mix my own colors off of 6 or 7 basic colors and use Tamiya acrylics if I need a specific color. The lacquer is resistant to any washes applied over it and the Tamiya is also highly resistant as long as you let it dry for a few days or more. The only washes I have used are solvent based from MIG and AK Interactive. I generally never seal the lacquer base coat until the end unless I'm putting decals on. I think I will go with the watered down acrylic paint for the wash and seal with a flat lacquer clear coat.


The black leather dye is water soluble until it dries. Then it is water resistant. It is NOT oil based, as far as I can tell.

Another option is to simply use some black acrylic paint watered down for a wash. The plus with that is you can add other colors to create rust-washes and other hues instead of just black or smoke.

I always shoot a layer of Pledge Floor Care (Future) over my primer or base coat before I begin adding layers of weathering or other color enhancements like hull plating. It enables me to add washes without the worry of them seeping into the base layer of paint in case I need to strip it due to a mistake. Often as I finish each layer of weathering or washes, I shoot another coat to seal in my work.

Once the Future is dried you can then spray lacquer the entire ship with dull coat, gloss or whatever other treatment you want without risking the work already completed.
 
I have not had any reaction painting with lacquer. I always prime with Duplicolor FP1010 light gray or DAP1692 dark gray which is lacquer based. Light coats a few minutes of dry time in between gives a nice smooth even finish. It dries quick and can be sanded in less than an hour to fix any imperfections especially after puttying so re-spraying of the primer is quick and blends in evenly. Once all that is done I usually let dry a few days before any basecoat but I will lightly sand before basecoat application.

Once you get the primer on and no reaction.......any lacquer paint applied over it should not affect the plastic below the primer unless you spray very heavy coats. The best is light even coats let dry a few minutes in between and for the final coat a slightly wet even coat.



Given the negative reaction of Bandai plastics reacting badly to lacquers and other clear coats - I have made it my practice to always seal my work in Future (Pledge Floor Care) before using any lacquers, no matter the kit manufacturer. Since I have a layer of future both under and over a shoe polish wash, I don't worry about the wash holding up. I no longer have need to use a lacquer clear coat when using Future, because that does the job of a clear coat. The only lacquer clear coat I need to use is when I need a dull coat to trim down the gloss from the Future.

Also, if you are using decals - I have found that Future is easier to work with and provides better results than solvent-based decal setters like MicroSol.
 
A few pictures of the sub-assemblies primed. Maybe this weekend apply the Corax white basecoat!

gt350pony66 when you sprayed the Corax white how much of the underlying primer did you cover. Did you completely cover it or did you leave some areas where you can slightly see different shades. Seems like the way to go to let some of the primer show though to give some more depth and then the wash will give even more.

In Randy Coopers weathering technique video it seem his base coat is not an even shade and has some slightly darker areas showing through. I think that looks really good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs

What do others on this thread think about that?



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looks outstanding dude!:thumbsup unfortunately, I neglected to prime mine :facepalm though I should have. I've been working on this AT-AT though, and I did shoot it with the Citadel black first, but not completely covering it. Then I shot the Corax white, but also not completely covering it except for the larger areas, giving it a darker hue in the nook and cranny places and I think it looks pretty good and lessening the need for a lot of washing. Just my opinion though. I'm sure some other guys will chime in on what they did. :thumbsup
A few pictures of the sub-assemblies primed. Maybe this weekend apply the Corax white basecoat!

gt350pony66 when you sprayed the Corax white how much of the underlying primer did you cover. Did you completely cover it or did you leave some areas where you can slightly see different shades. Seems like the way to go to let some of the primer show though to give some more depth and then the wash will give even more.

In Randy Coopers weathering technique video it seem his base coat is not an even shade and has some slightly darker areas showing through. I think that looks really good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs

What do others on this thread think about that?



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Thanks for the info on the black being shot first!!

I will probably shoot some Duplicolor dark gray primer going heavier in the nooks and crannies and lighter on the more flat larger areas then shoot the Corax white not completely covering all of it and see how that looks. I can always re-spray Corax white in those areas if some areas are too dark.....How does the Corax white blend into surrounding areas if re-shot a second time. Is it still a nice even sheen?

looks outstanding dude!:thumbsup unfortunately, I neglected to prime mine :facepalm though I should have. I've been working on this AT-AT though, and I did shoot it with the Citadel black first, but not completely covering it. Then I shot the Corax white, but also not completely covering it except for the larger areas, giving it a darker hue in the nook and cranny places and I think it looks pretty good and lessening the need for a lot of washing. Just my opinion though. I'm sure some other guys will chime in on what they did. :thumbsup
 
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