Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Thanks Oscar:thumbsup, how are things progressing there?
Still near half million people without power. Kind of ridiculous if you ask me. Personally Im doing better.
Thanks Oscar:thumbsup, how are things progressing there?
[/QUOTE]I was looking further into a dimmable solution and I may not use the IR ones and go with one of these solutions instead:
This one is inline is RF and has a remote. I need to find out if using multiple units if the remote will interfere and operate all at same time or be independent. I have message into seller to clarify this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-IN-LIN...296280?hash=item2393216b58:g:0BcAAOSwmphaD9fg
This one is in line an has switches on it to control brightness. Since I have mine where I can open it I can adjust brightness to what I like and leave alone. I have to find out if last setting is saved when powered off. I have message into seller to clarify this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-ULTRA...897609&hash=item2a8abfde6f:g:TG0AAOSwT6pVk9Hm
Over the weekend I primed all sub-assemblies, cleaned up more wiring in main section and started work on placement and wiring of the 6 channel RF switch. I'm waiting to get back my sound and weapons board so I can see where that needs to be placed so I can't close up the top and bottom just yet. I did not prime the trench area yet. I also started on building the base in between all of this.
I may paint all the sub-assemblies with the Corax white then assemble the top and bottom half along with the engine block. Once dry carefully cover the top and bottom then prime and paint the trench and engine block seams. It was definitely easier to prime the sub-assemblies instead of the whole ship at once. The only thing I will have to do when it's fully assembled is apply the wash, clear coat and snip the FO
Here are some pictures of the sub-assemblies before priming. I forgot take pictures after priming. I will try to take some tonight and post tomorrow.
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looks awesome dude! looking forward to seeing it come together :thumbsup
Since I'm getting close to painting........what brand paint did you use for the dark wash?
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
But to be honest I don't really like all his weathering work.If you haven’t already , check out a guy - Cosplay Chris on YouTube . He’s a big proponent of kiwi shoe polish for his projects too !
Ged
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
I have no idea. Me know nothingHmm...I wonder why I was always under the impression that shoe polish was oil based? ...cause I'm stupid most likely :wacko [emoji38]
I actually like using black Kiwi shoe polish watered down for my washes. Water soluble and affords a goodly amount of control over the wash and it's dispersal into crevices to enhance details. Cheap too!
Hmm...I wonder why I was always under the impression that shoe polish was oil based? ...cause I'm stupid most likely :wacko :lol
Do you seal with a clear coat after your done all the painting and washes?
Not sure how the cheap acrylic or water based shoe polish will hold up with a clear lacquer applied over it.
It's no problem with Tamiya acrylics but never tried a lacquer clear coat over any of others mentioned
The black leather dye is water soluble until it dries. Then it is water resistant. It is NOT oil based, as far as I can tell.
Another option is to simply use some black acrylic paint watered down for a wash. The plus with that is you can add other colors to create rust-washes and other hues instead of just black or smoke.
I always shoot a layer of Pledge Floor Care (Future) over my primer or base coat before I begin adding layers of weathering or other color enhancements like hull plating. It enables me to add washes without the worry of them seeping into the base layer of paint in case I need to strip it due to a mistake. Often as I finish each layer of weathering or washes, I shoot another coat to seal in my work.
Once the Future is dried you can then spray lacquer the entire ship with dull coat, gloss or whatever other treatment you want without risking the work already completed.
Given the negative reaction of Bandai plastics reacting badly to lacquers and other clear coats - I have made it my practice to always seal my work in Future (Pledge Floor Care) before using any lacquers, no matter the kit manufacturer. Since I have a layer of future both under and over a shoe polish wash, I don't worry about the wash holding up. I no longer have need to use a lacquer clear coat when using Future, because that does the job of a clear coat. The only lacquer clear coat I need to use is when I need a dull coat to trim down the gloss from the Future.
Also, if you are using decals - I have found that Future is easier to work with and provides better results than solvent-based decal setters like MicroSol.
A few pictures of the sub-assemblies primed. Maybe this weekend apply the Corax white basecoat!
gt350pony66 when you sprayed the Corax white how much of the underlying primer did you cover. Did you completely cover it or did you leave some areas where you can slightly see different shades. Seems like the way to go to let some of the primer show though to give some more depth and then the wash will give even more.
In Randy Coopers weathering technique video it seem his base coat is not an even shade and has some slightly darker areas showing through. I think that looks really good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0ZGTsDTcs
What do others on this thread think about that?
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looks outstanding dude!:thumbsup unfortunately, I neglected to prime mine :facepalm though I should have. I've been working on this AT-AT though, and I did shoot it with the Citadel black first, but not completely covering it. Then I shot the Corax white, but also not completely covering it except for the larger areas, giving it a darker hue in the nook and cranny places and I think it looks pretty good and lessening the need for a lot of washing. Just my opinion though. I'm sure some other guys will chime in on what they did. :thumbsup