matty matt
Sr Member
Loneken is probably sorry he asked.
Haha no that's actually exactly why I asked, but didn't realize it was still such a heated debate years and years later!Loneken is probably sorry he asked.
If you want a screen accurate static, get a vintage.
If you want a mostly screen accurate static, get a Roman's.
If you want you want a mostly screen accurate electronic or bladed saber get a TGS.
if you want a reasonably screen accurate static or electronic that you can mod for accuracy, and has an internal set up that will help you get started on electronics, get a 2.0.
TCSS sells the 2.0 and their flashgun replica is Roman's.
If you like crying over millimeters give us all a break and just get a vintage.
If you are selling a replica and you can't make a marketing point without bashing another replica maker, you're a tool.
If you are swearing up and down about the accuracy of a product that hasn't come out, you are either butthurt over millimeters or are a shill.
While I absolutely agree that Roman's replica is the top of the heap it does have some areas that people may find problematic -- all of which can be more or less corrected fairly easily if you wish.
First, as others have pointed out the ears on Roman's Graflex are slightly longer than authentic ears. And because of the way they are shaped the Roman's also "rest" differently in the socket -- i think they sit slightly farther back. I have two authentic Graflexes and a loose set of authentic ears to compare with and the difference is visible without calipers. The issue is that, while the overall dimensions of the ears are similar (with the Roman's averaging around 1mm longer at 59.44 vs an average 58.5) the break points and shaping is slightly different and the "tombstone" portion of the ear is the primary difference. This portion on my Romans replica is longer by 2.3mm and subtly shorter over the authentic ears. Ultimately I replaced the ears with a set left over from my Parks replica I am turning into the RotJ shared stunt. And, yes, the rivet isn't accurate but that can be replaced too.
View attachment 727113
View attachment 727114
Second -- I find it somewhat odd, though ultimately a good choice, to base the red button on a rare variation to give people the option to use that if they are so inclined (though there is ZERO proof this variation was ever associated with a screen used prop -- that ANH photo is too fuzzy). If you want to make an ESB or TFA saber the button will need to be replaced with the more conventional style with the deeper machining above the knurling (IMO this is also true for the ANH model as well but your opinion may differ which is perfectly OK and is why it's great to have this alternate button as an option).
Third -- I love that he chose to base the replica on the Folmer model but also find it curious that, in so doing, he chose not to use smooth-sided brass pins. The general assumption being that if it is a Folmer flash it should have smooth sided pins rather than the later Graflex style. I will allow that, apart from the Ranch saber, this is somewhat open to interpretation and works fine for TFA anyway so depending on which version of the saber you are building you may wish to replace the pins.
Finally, the plating on parts of the saber is too bright and needs to be dampened with a Scotch-Bright pad (either a red or green one). This particularly needs to be done to the end cap and performed with great care so as not to blow through the plating to the copper under-coat which can be easy to do -- and I did in one or two spots but fortunately it's not too noticeable. Also, there were issues with bad plating on the clamps and it was kind of a lottery as to which you received. I got what I considered a dud and Roman immediately sent me a replacement from his stock of stand-alone clamps free of charge. Ironically the plating on the stand-alone clamp was perfect but the side bars were too bright so I tried to swap them out with the other set but the parts were not interchangeable as the break points on the clamps were slightly different (thanks China!). So I had to do the Scotch-Brite trick with the side bars aaaaaand blew through the plating on one of them, dangit.
So that is my take on the Roman's replica. It is awesome and, depending on your level of crazy, you may want to tweak some things but the man and his customer service are outstanding and he has done us a great service making this replica available now that authentic Graflexes are out of what most would consider a sensible price range.
Dave
Here is the Roman's button next to the more typical Graflex style I am referring to:
View attachment 727118
Dave
Here is the Roman's button next to the more typical Graflex style I am referring to:
View attachment 727118
Dave
wow! the red button sets high on your graflex button, none of mine do
If you want a screen accurate static, get a vintage.
If you want a mostly screen accurate static, get a Roman's.
If you want you want a mostly screen accurate electronic or bladed saber get a TGS.
if you want a reasonably screen accurate static or electronic that you can mod for accuracy, and has an internal set up that will help you get started on electronics, get a 2.0.
TCSS sells the 2.0 and their flashgun replica is Roman's.
If you like crying over millimeters give us all a break and just get a vintage.
If you are selling a replica and you can't make a marketing point without bashing another replica maker, you're a tool.
If you are swearing up and down about the accuracy of a product that hasn't come out, you are either butthurt over millimeters or are a shill.
Hey guys-
Unfortunately for me .. I decided I needed to have a DV MOM replica .. so I have started reading threads upon threads, Seth's infamous awesome PDF and some web sites here and there and this thread came up.
Now that I've read it all .. I'm wondering .. why in the debate nobody bringing up the Korbanth's accuracy? Is it completely out of the game? I was thinking to order a DV6 and knowing how accuracy always ends up growing on me .. I thought I'd ask first how much of a good idea that was.
So bear with me here, I'm just starting (which I didn't want to) to learn about Graflex replicas. Sigh.