Project: Revell AT-AT Walker

Happy New Year, anamorphicWayne. Your excellent work became my reference to follow, and gave me re-start modifying my MPC AT-AT that was staying in the box more than 20 years after broken down. I have limited environment about metal milling as our country's house situation. I have started leg and piston mechanism by styrene sheet as conceptual work first. Really enjoying to read your thread as well as this site.
 
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Happy New Year, anamorphicWayne. Your excellent work became my reference to follow, and gave me re-start modifying my MPC AT-AT that was staying in the box more than 20 years after broken down. I have limited environment about metal milling as our country's house situation. I have started leg and piston mechanism by styrene sheet as conceptual work first. Really enjoying to read your thread as well as this site.

Thank you so much swmodelfan1977. And Happy New Year to you as well.

I had the old MPC AT-AT and tried to convert it into a stop-mo using plastic years and years ago, but never got it finished. Are you planning on using metal legs? If so, I would try to use pins or rivets and not rely too much on bolts. Even at this Revell scale I found it difficult to find the proper 'scaled fasteners'. What I mean by 'scaled fasteners' is the bolt heads matching the studio scale model. For example, the studio scale model use various bolts with different heads types. They include set screws, allen (hex) bolts and button head bolts. I don't know how small these bolts can go or their availability, but taping the holes would be insane to do. I am using pins on certain parts because of this problem. But for the most part, I am using the proper bolts.

Anyways, It would be nice to see your progress. You're welcome to post on this thread.

anamorphicWayne
 
Thank you so much swmodelfan1977. And Happy New Year to you as well.

I had the old MPC AT-AT and tried to convert it into a stop-mo using plastic years and years ago, but never got it finished. Are you planning on using metal legs? If so, I would try to use pins or rivets and not rely too much on bolts. Even at this Revell scale I found it difficult to find the proper 'scaled fasteners'. What I mean by 'scaled fasteners' is the bolt heads matching the studio scale model. For example, the studio scale model use various bolts with different heads types. They include set screws, allen (hex) bolts and button head bolts. I don't know how small these bolts can go or their availability, but taping the holes would be insane to do. I am using pins on certain parts because of this problem. But for the most part, I am using the proper bolts.

Anyways, It would be nice to see your progress. You're welcome to post on this thread.


Thank you very much for your comments, anamorphicWayne.
I fully agree with you and thank you very much for allowing to show my prototype here.
Let me explain little bit.
I have traced your uploaded photos at first by using Photoshop and other CAD software. Then scaled them down to fit MPC AT-AT size.
It was made with layered styrene sheets with brass rods and pipe.
ATAT_CAD_TEST.jpgLegs_MPC_and_Proto.jpg
As you have pointed out, screw is headache to fit scale. You might feel even above screws are over-scaled. Especially blade head is difficult to get recently in such small size.
With MPC AT-AT, I won't make metal legs but styrene sheets as not making workable stop-mo model. It is just self satisfaction as hobby. However I'd love to have metal legs for my Revell AT-AT in the future, and dreaming, may be after retirement. :D
Here I have just uploaded movie to show movement of prototype.
https://youtu.be/M1Neuhvg3gk

swmodelfan1977
 

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Thank you very much for your comments, anamorphicWayne.

I fully agree with you and thank you very much for allowing to show my prototype here.

Let me explain little bit.
I have traced your uploaded photos at first by using Photoshop and other CAD software. Then scaled them down to fit MPC AT-AT size.
It was made with layered styrene sheets with brass rods and pipe.
View attachment 573252View attachment 573256

As you have pointed out, screw is headache to fit scale. You might feel even above screws are over-scaled. Especially blade head is difficult to get recently in such small size.

With MPC AT-AT, I won't make metal legs but styrene sheets as not making workable stop-mo model. It is just self satisfaction as hobby. However I'd love to have metal legs for my Revell AT-AT in the future, and dreaming, may be after retirement. :D

Here I have just uploaded movie to show movement of prototype.
https://youtu.be/M1Neuhvg3gk

swmodelfan1977

Nicely Done swmodelfan1977. At least you got to the point of a 'working piston', I have no clue how I'm going to pull that off. :confused

However, if I may offer a few suggestions. Basically, the round indent (on the right side/near the top) of the Upper Leg only goes thru half way and only on the back side. The Leg Tension is mounted within the indent and pivots around its screw. The Leg Tension is then connected to the Hip Plate thru its slanted slot. I've also enlarged the Knee Joint hole and added a ring to help support the Lower Leg. I felt the axle wasn't going to be enough. I've also removed the curved channel at the bottom of the Knee Joint. I thought it was on the original model, but have re-evaluate since then.

at-at upper leg.jpg

Your work is coming along. Keep it up, I'm looking forward to seeing more.

anamorphicWayne :D
 
This is amazing to see these metal legs taking shape. It's unbelievable.

I do agree with anamorphic Wayne with regards to the slot for the leg tension though. Here are some images that may help.

AT-AT19Comp.jpgsw_mos_atat_0027.jpg
 
Hi anamorphicWayne, Hi Junk Pilot,
Thanks for notice about the leg tension. Yes, I do agree too.:D My 3D CAD model was made by giving thickness after selection of area and purpose to study how should I build layered styrene sheets. Anyway, pics Junk Pilot posted helped how much deep slot should be. :thumbsup Will take all suggestions from you guys and modify my drawing.

Cheers, ta!
 
Sorry, I did jump pretty early, but I am tired of people starting projects and then disappearing. It is especially irritating when it is an interesting thread, like this one. Also, I am not "the Boy". I am probably the oldest member here. Now, you can say I should know better ...
 
Sorry, I did jump pretty early, but I am tired of people starting projects and then disappearing. It is especially irritating when it is an interesting thread, like this one. Also, I am not "the Boy". I am probably the oldest member here. Now, you can say I should know better ...

No worries Sourdoh, I can't stand it either when an interesting thread is left in limbo. I've never tackled anything like this before, especially in metal and so complex. But I'm so determined to get it done one way or another.

I've been out of commission in the last few days due to a X-Acto knife mishap, but I'm on the mend and should be at it shortly. :wacko

So please stay tuned. :cool :cheers

BTW, I don't know why I'm not getting any notifications on any new posts. I'm subscribed. :confused
 
No worries Sourdoh, I can't stand it either when an interesting thread is left in limbo. I've never tackled anything like this before, especially in metal and so complex. But I'm so determined to get it done one way or another.

I've been out of commission in the last few days due to a X-Acto knife mishap, but I'm on the mend and should be at it shortly. :wacko

So please stay tuned. :cool :cheers

BTW, I don't know why I'm not getting any notifications on any new posts. I'm subscribed. :confused

Never mind, I found the problem. Carry on. :rolleyes
 
Regarding "starting projects and disappearing", I do see some people doing that. However, we don't know what has transpired in their lives. Everyone here has a life outside of modelling and sometimes that takes priority. This is a challenging project made with basic tools and not CNC machines. Sometimes things go well and you surprise yourself on how well your project turns out and there are times you hit a snag and shelve your project until you can figure out a solution. I think it would be best to support members (like we do already) and show them there is interest. So those people out there that just lurk...don't be afraid to send an "attaboy" message or hit the "like" button. Support your local modeller! :D

TazMan2000
 
Hope you're feeling better (had an accident with a cutter not long ago also...so I feel your pain). I'm still tuning to your broadband for sure;)
 
Hope you're feeling better (had an accident with a cutter not long ago also...so I feel your pain). I'm still tuning to your broadband for sure;)


Thanks joberg. I've downgraded from a pressure bandage to a regular bandage, so it's doing nicely. :thumbsup

Regarding "starting projects and disappearing", I do see some people doing that. However, we don't know what has transpired in their lives. Everyone here has a life outside of modelling and sometimes that takes priority. This is a challenging project made with basic tools and not CNC machines. Sometimes things go well and you surprise yourself on how well your project turns out and there are times you hit a snag and shelve your project until you can figure out a solution. I think it would be best to support members (like we do already) and show them there is interest. So those people out there that just lurk...don't be afraid to send an "attaboy" message or hit the "like" button. Support your local modeller! :D

TazMan2000


Well said TazMan. Sometimes, I think we get so caught up in the project that we want to see it done as much as the artist. But yeah, we should be encouraging and not expecting. :)
 
THE LEGS Part XIII

Speaking of updates swmodelfan1977, here's another update I've been saving.


The Body_Hip Joints


bodyhip joint 01.JPG
For the Body_Hip Joints, I used four 3/4 rods about 1-1/8 in length.

bodyhip joint 02.JPG bodyhip joint 03.JPG
Like the Lower Foot Chambers, I per-drilled holes to help in milling out the channels. These1/4 channels will be connected to Joint Pins which are bolted to the Leg Base Block.

bodyhip joint 04.JPG
Next is to make the Joint Pins. For these I used 3/8 rods at 1 length and with 1/2 bases.

bodyhip joint 05.JPG bodyhip joint 06.JPG
I shaved off 1/16 on both sides, making 1/4 square posts.

bodyhip joint 07.JPG
The next step is to mill the other end down from 3/4 to 5/8. To ensure no slippage, I took a block of wood, drilled a 3/4 hole and added a bolt thru the center. The bolt lines up with the channel.

bodyhip joint 08.JPG
Then it was a matter of milling down to about 1/4, the thickness of the Hip Plate and Joint Cap.

bodyhip joint 09.JPG bodyhip joint 10.JPG
I then had to drill/tap all the mounting holes as well as assemble the Joint Caps. Unfortunately while tapping one of the holes, I broke a 4-40 tap on the last Joint. Opps. I'll have to deal with that later on.


In the meantime.....there's more to come.
 

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