Project: Revell AT-AT Walker
- Thread starter anamorphicWayne
- Start date
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks Vacformedhero and VFX Freak,
This project has been quite a challenge, more than I anticipated. As for casting the parts, that'll be put to the test when need to cast the foot shells. The parts are detectable, perhaps that could be another project.
Vacformedhero
Sr Member
If I had the skills and equipment I'd be doing in metal too, well done
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Zuiun
Sr Member
Well.... *tosses everything into the air* Just when I think I've seen the most amazing project here on this site and it's not going to get any better, along comes something like this.
Pretty much every update post had me shaking my head and muttering "that's just genius."
Can't wait to see this baby finished.
Pretty much every update post had me shaking my head and muttering "that's just genius."
Can't wait to see this baby finished.
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Wow! Your metal work and its idea are brilliant.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks Zuiun and swmodelfan1977.
This project has been an endeavor. One thing I realized is how time consuming the metal work is. It would take me a day to mill four parts. Most of that time is trying to figure how, I do one part and then finish off the remaining three. By the end, it's 7 or 8 o'clock at night.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part VI
The Ankles.
The Ankles are pretty much symmetrical, so I'd thought I handle them as two identical plates. The inside and the outside. Each plate has four halves and made of 3/8 aluminum.
To accomplish the channels for the Horse Shoes, I basically milled in a loop, covering four Ankle halves at once. Once done, I did the other plate. When these two plates are put together they line up forming the Ankles.
Next, I had to cut out each Ankle. I started by cutting out the corners and then cut straight down to the center hole separating each Ankle half.
Then it was a matter of milling the angled faces. Easier said than done. It was definitely not a easy thing to do.
Let's say, there is some putty work involved.
NEXT, The Horse Shoes.
The Ankles.
The Ankles are pretty much symmetrical, so I'd thought I handle them as two identical plates. The inside and the outside. Each plate has four halves and made of 3/8 aluminum.
To accomplish the channels for the Horse Shoes, I basically milled in a loop, covering four Ankle halves at once. Once done, I did the other plate. When these two plates are put together they line up forming the Ankles.
Next, I had to cut out each Ankle. I started by cutting out the corners and then cut straight down to the center hole separating each Ankle half.
Then it was a matter of milling the angled faces. Easier said than done. It was definitely not a easy thing to do.
Let's say, there is some putty work involved.
NEXT, The Horse Shoes.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part VII
The Horse Shoes.
For the Horse Shoes, I used four 3/8 aluminum blocks. The outer contours were pretty straight forward. But the curved channels along the sides were done the same way, except at a higher depth. The channels along the edges were accomplished by using a 'cutting bit' at various heights. I then used the dremel tool to clean them up.
To get the inner contours, I drilled multi holes along the inner guides and then removed the cores. I used a coarse file to refine the contours and went crazy.
Once done, it's a matter of drilling the Foot Pin holes.
For that, I removed the compound table and rotate the drill press table at a 90 degree angle.
Next, I rounded the bottoms around the Foot Pin holes.
Lastly, I cut the 'tension slits' along the edges by using a cutting disk on the drill press.
MORE TO COME. The Upper Feet.
The Horse Shoes.
For the Horse Shoes, I used four 3/8 aluminum blocks. The outer contours were pretty straight forward. But the curved channels along the sides were done the same way, except at a higher depth. The channels along the edges were accomplished by using a 'cutting bit' at various heights. I then used the dremel tool to clean them up.
To get the inner contours, I drilled multi holes along the inner guides and then removed the cores. I used a coarse file to refine the contours and went crazy.
Once done, it's a matter of drilling the Foot Pin holes.
For that, I removed the compound table and rotate the drill press table at a 90 degree angle.
Next, I rounded the bottoms around the Foot Pin holes.
Lastly, I cut the 'tension slits' along the edges by using a cutting disk on the drill press.
MORE TO COME. The Upper Feet.
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Can't wait to see further. Yes, milling process is taking long due to keeping tools life the last long.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part VIII
The Upper Feet.
For the Upper Feet, I used four 1-1/2 aluminum rods about 1/2 thick.
Before tackling the tapering, I had to drill holes for the Foot Pins. I turned the drill press table at a 90 degree angle and drilled straight thru with a 1/4 bit.
I'd first thought of mounting each part in the chuck and filing them down to a taper, but discovered that was going to be extremely time consuming. So I decided to mill them instead. I devised a mounting plate which I bolted each part to from underneath. I then, clamped that unit to the rotary table and rotated the drill press table to approximately 11 degrees.
Next, I drilled 1/2 holes down the center which will later be milled to 3/4 to accommodate the Caps.
Because I couldn't mill the Caps as a single part, I made then into two parts and would epoxy/bolt together later. The top plates were cut from a 2mm aluminum sheet and the posts from a 3/4 rod. I milled straight channels into the posts, so the Foot Pins could slide into.
Next, I milled the center holes to 3/4 so the posts can pop into. I then epoxy the posts to the top plates. Later on, the Foot Pins will be bolted to the Caps by drilled holes in the center of the Pins.
I needed something to run up & down in the Lower Foot Chambers, so traced out 1-1/2 circles onto a 1mm aluminum sheet and a 1/4 wood board. I won't cut these out until I have the Chambers milled. These discs, along with the Foot Springs, will eventually be bolted to the Upper Feet where they'll held down in the Chambers.
WHAT'S NEXT? The Lower Foot Caps.
The Upper Feet.
For the Upper Feet, I used four 1-1/2 aluminum rods about 1/2 thick.
Before tackling the tapering, I had to drill holes for the Foot Pins. I turned the drill press table at a 90 degree angle and drilled straight thru with a 1/4 bit.
I'd first thought of mounting each part in the chuck and filing them down to a taper, but discovered that was going to be extremely time consuming. So I decided to mill them instead. I devised a mounting plate which I bolted each part to from underneath. I then, clamped that unit to the rotary table and rotated the drill press table to approximately 11 degrees.
Next, I drilled 1/2 holes down the center which will later be milled to 3/4 to accommodate the Caps.
Because I couldn't mill the Caps as a single part, I made then into two parts and would epoxy/bolt together later. The top plates were cut from a 2mm aluminum sheet and the posts from a 3/4 rod. I milled straight channels into the posts, so the Foot Pins could slide into.
Next, I milled the center holes to 3/4 so the posts can pop into. I then epoxy the posts to the top plates. Later on, the Foot Pins will be bolted to the Caps by drilled holes in the center of the Pins.
I needed something to run up & down in the Lower Foot Chambers, so traced out 1-1/2 circles onto a 1mm aluminum sheet and a 1/4 wood board. I won't cut these out until I have the Chambers milled. These discs, along with the Foot Springs, will eventually be bolted to the Upper Feet where they'll held down in the Chambers.
WHAT'S NEXT? The Lower Foot Caps.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part IX
The Lower Foot Caps.
The four Lower Foot Caps were cut from a 3/16 aluminum plate, based off my template.
I had to mill channels on the bottom side. These channels will be the same diameter as the Lower Foot Chamber's inners.
Next, I had to taper the tops. This time, I could use the drill press and a coarse file to do the job.
To make the openings, I drilled multiple holes within the guide lines, pop out the cores and milled them to size.
Lastly, I milled round inserts for the Foot Support Rods.
NEXT. The Lower Foot Chambers. Maybe???
The Lower Foot Caps.
The four Lower Foot Caps were cut from a 3/16 aluminum plate, based off my template.
I had to mill channels on the bottom side. These channels will be the same diameter as the Lower Foot Chamber's inners.
Next, I had to taper the tops. This time, I could use the drill press and a coarse file to do the job.
To make the openings, I drilled multiple holes within the guide lines, pop out the cores and milled them to size.
Lastly, I milled round inserts for the Foot Support Rods.
NEXT. The Lower Foot Chambers. Maybe???
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Great job for taper. How did you make all same angle? Did you use any angle gauge (protractor) while filing?
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks swmodelfan1977. No. I had guide lines on the top of each part, so I just milled inwards until I came to it. I did measure each part to keep them consistent. But essentially, I'd eye-balled it.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part X
The Lower Foot Chambers.
For the Lower Foot Chamber, I made up a 'mock up' out of plastic tubing.
I used it for alignment with the other parts, to ensure everything is fitting.
As for what to use to make them, I had to compromise. I needed four 2" round tubing with a 1.624" inner diameter (3/16 wall) each at about 1/2" high. Fortunately, there is such a tube. But unfortunately, it was hard to obtain at a reasonable price. So, I had to go with 2" solid disks and mill out the holes myself. A task I wasn't looking forward to. But with all I've done at this point, it shouldn't be a big deal.
Before I started, I made sure the Foot Shell master fitted over the 2" disk. I then marked off what I needed to mill.
I started by drilling holes just inside the perimeter. Next, it was a matter of milling up to the line.
I then drilled the mounting holes and there you have it.
NEXT. The Lower Foot Bases.
The Lower Foot Chambers.
For the Lower Foot Chamber, I made up a 'mock up' out of plastic tubing.
I used it for alignment with the other parts, to ensure everything is fitting.
As for what to use to make them, I had to compromise. I needed four 2" round tubing with a 1.624" inner diameter (3/16 wall) each at about 1/2" high. Fortunately, there is such a tube. But unfortunately, it was hard to obtain at a reasonable price. So, I had to go with 2" solid disks and mill out the holes myself. A task I wasn't looking forward to. But with all I've done at this point, it shouldn't be a big deal.
Before I started, I made sure the Foot Shell master fitted over the 2" disk. I then marked off what I needed to mill.
I started by drilling holes just inside the perimeter. Next, it was a matter of milling up to the line.
I then drilled the mounting holes and there you have it.
NEXT. The Lower Foot Bases.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part XI
The Lower Foot Bases.
I'm using four 3/16 aluminum blocks approx 2-1/2 square for the bases.
I started by cutting out the corners and then work myself to the Toe mounts.
At this point, I fine tuned the contours and drilled the mounting holes.
Next, I bored out 3/4 center holes and rounded Toes mounts. The center hole will allow me to adjust the 'shock absorbers' and to connect any tie-downs, if I'm going to animate the model.
NEXT. The Foot Support Rods.
The Lower Foot Bases.
I'm using four 3/16 aluminum blocks approx 2-1/2 square for the bases.
I started by cutting out the corners and then work myself to the Toe mounts.
At this point, I fine tuned the contours and drilled the mounting holes.
Next, I bored out 3/4 center holes and rounded Toes mounts. The center hole will allow me to adjust the 'shock absorbers' and to connect any tie-downs, if I'm going to animate the model.
NEXT. The Foot Support Rods.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part XII
The Foot Support Rods.
I did a quick design sketch to go by.
For the ball n socket joints, I thought try using 'ball head screws', from screen window latches and small ball screws from a RC car.
Unfortunately, I only had three of the screws, so I had to order four new ones.
Next, I bore out cavities in aluminum rods for the small ball screws to be mounted in and then cut a slit at the top. I basically used a dremel tool for most of the work.
I then popped the screws into the hole and worked it in.
Next, was to make mounting posts for the small ball screws. I did this by using the drill press and file to taper them. These will be attached to the Ankles.
The aluminum tubing wasn't working out too well, so I opted to use brass instead.
Also I made bases for the larger ball screws which consist of short aluminum tubes, conformed at the top and plastic cores to hold the screws in. These will be epoxy to the Foot Shells.
NEXT. The Body_Hip Joints.
The Foot Support Rods.
I did a quick design sketch to go by.
For the ball n socket joints, I thought try using 'ball head screws', from screen window latches and small ball screws from a RC car.
Unfortunately, I only had three of the screws, so I had to order four new ones.
Next, I bore out cavities in aluminum rods for the small ball screws to be mounted in and then cut a slit at the top. I basically used a dremel tool for most of the work.
I then popped the screws into the hole and worked it in.
Next, was to make mounting posts for the small ball screws. I did this by using the drill press and file to taper them. These will be attached to the Ankles.
The aluminum tubing wasn't working out too well, so I opted to use brass instead.
Also I made bases for the larger ball screws which consist of short aluminum tubes, conformed at the top and plastic cores to hold the screws in. These will be epoxy to the Foot Shells.
NEXT. The Body_Hip Joints.
Similar threads
