Yes, Alumilite Clear for the grips. They have two versions, I like the longer setting one as it give more pot life for the degassing.
The vacuum degassing will remove all the big bubbles. Bubbles expand, can exert enough force to rise to the serface and pop. But what can be left are really tiny bubbles that didn't expand enough to rise up. These bubbles might be so tiny so as not to be really visible to the naked eye, but the effect they have is to make the casting look ever so slightly cloudy. So the vacuum/pressure process helps to get crystal clear castings. Depending on what you are doing, that might not be important. For the grips, they were.
Also, the casting will only appear as clear and the original pattern (an therefore mold surface) was glossy. High gloss mold equals clear surface, matte mold equals frosted surface. Clear urethane castings are nowhere as easy to polish to a high clear surface finish as polyesters or solid acrylic. So it's a good idea to get your mold as glossy as possible if clarity is important.
Post curing is basically "baking" the cured part out of the mold for a few hours at very low temperature. When the part first comes out of the mold, even after a full cure, it might feel a little tacky. Not really sticky of soft but not rock hard either. Post curing will fix that. Just at around 150 degrees for a few hours. When I was casting the grips (in the middle of summer) my process would be to mix the resin in the evening after I got home from work, degass it in the vacuum chamber in the mixing pot for five minutes or so, they pour it into the silicone mold and put the mold into the pressure tank and leave it to cure at 60psi all night, 8 hours or so. Then in the morning, after I'd had my coffee, demold the part and put it on the back seat of my car. The car would be parked in the sun all day while I was at work and the interior would get up to around 140 degrees (yes, I measured it once!). That worked perfectly to post cure the resin. Then pour another one when I got home and repeat (I had to make a couple dozen sets).
I don't recommend using your kitchen over or a toaster oven, it's too easy to overheat the resin. When the weather is cold I have made a "hot box" out of a large cardboard box with a light bulb inside. Just make sure it's not a fire hazard.
The amber color was a PITA to get just right. It's a mixture of yellow dye and a tiny, tiny bit of red. The red dyes tend to be super concentrated and I had a lot of batchs turn out more of a salmon color! Unfortunately I was unable to find an amber dye.
