I heard dat.
New BMF coming
- Thread starter Jimmer
- Start date
I heard dat.
mythshaker
Active Member
Another reason to have a second model about is to learn and practice painting techniques. I sure would be following a painting thread. I just suck sooooooo bad at painting.
Jaitea
Master Member
I got told off for posting links to ebay one time but if you paste this into that sites search bar:
20 Sheets A4 Inkjet Light Water Transfer Paper for Cup Decal Craft DIY
The 20 sheet pack is £10,.......too good value not to have a go
Do all test printing on regular paper,.....once youre happy with the sizing, then use the decal paper
J
20 Sheets A4 Inkjet Light Water Transfer Paper for Cup Decal Craft DIY
The 20 sheet pack is £10,.......too good value not to have a go
Do all test printing on regular paper,.....once youre happy with the sizing, then use the decal paper
J
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Well, I think the answer is pretty clear, once recalling the history (or pedigree) of the MR finish.
Short version is that it is a bastardized version of a screen-accurate finish.
The MR master, finished by Dean Dymerski, was indeed a hyper-accurate, screen-accurate paint job. But, as we all know, it was literally lost in translation by the Chinese factory workers pumping out the run.
So what you got was a bit of both - a "Falcon-ish" version of a screen-accurate paint-job.
Ill add to what Rob said. At Icons, the first X-Wings were painted by a few key talented people. Later runs were an assembly line, IE quality was lost.
The great thing about this toy is that due to a low cost, it will fall into a lot of talented hands. You can go crazy with mods and a frame by frame paint job, or just do a simple repaint. I did a simple respray just to illustrate the change from out of the box to a 'presentable' piece in a day. I never truly finish a piece. There will always be things I want to change or add to over time. But for the moment, every time I walk into my office and see the the $60 hunk of injection molded cheap plastic sitting on its paper towel holder base...I smile. Of course there will be sidewalls, engine grills and a final paint stage. But its nice to see something that that adds to the room instead of looking like a half finished project that should reside in a cardboard box in the garage. In the end, my MF will be only slightly crazy mods.
Fett Helmet:
People tend to determine difficult VS. easy by their comfort level and past projects. The Fett helmet is on my 'to do' list and I personally wouldnt do an Inch by inch, frame by frame paint job. The Fett purist could pick it to pieces, but it would look the part when done. I am a firm believer in artistic license within reason. Im more concerned with the overall feel than if paint chip 'A' lines up with screen grab 'A'. Thats just me.
In regards to the MF, I will end up using; Airbrush, preshadowing, drybrushing, chalks, paint splattering, rattlecan (primer) charcoal dust, fine pencil......... For me, every painting technique has a place and level of usage on this model. The trick is getting it eye correct in the end. My method will be different from an others, because there is more than one way to skin this cat. Just pick methods that you are comfortable with and have a go.
Someone posted about the Randy Cooper MF. His greeblies may not come from the accurate kits, but the overall presentation is stunning. Thats what I always try to achieve.
RE decal paper: Was there a one sheet posted here that could be printed? Like the Jbot sheet? I never got a response from him BTW so a click/pay option is not available as of now.
The great thing about this toy is that due to a low cost, it will fall into a lot of talented hands. You can go crazy with mods and a frame by frame paint job, or just do a simple repaint. I did a simple respray just to illustrate the change from out of the box to a 'presentable' piece in a day. I never truly finish a piece. There will always be things I want to change or add to over time. But for the moment, every time I walk into my office and see the the $60 hunk of injection molded cheap plastic sitting on its paper towel holder base...I smile. Of course there will be sidewalls, engine grills and a final paint stage. But its nice to see something that that adds to the room instead of looking like a half finished project that should reside in a cardboard box in the garage. In the end, my MF will be only slightly crazy mods.
Fett Helmet:
People tend to determine difficult VS. easy by their comfort level and past projects. The Fett helmet is on my 'to do' list and I personally wouldnt do an Inch by inch, frame by frame paint job. The Fett purist could pick it to pieces, but it would look the part when done. I am a firm believer in artistic license within reason. Im more concerned with the overall feel than if paint chip 'A' lines up with screen grab 'A'. Thats just me.
In regards to the MF, I will end up using; Airbrush, preshadowing, drybrushing, chalks, paint splattering, rattlecan (primer) charcoal dust, fine pencil......... For me, every painting technique has a place and level of usage on this model. The trick is getting it eye correct in the end. My method will be different from an others, because there is more than one way to skin this cat. Just pick methods that you are comfortable with and have a go.
Someone posted about the Randy Cooper MF. His greeblies may not come from the accurate kits, but the overall presentation is stunning. Thats what I always try to achieve.
RE decal paper: Was there a one sheet posted here that could be printed? Like the Jbot sheet? I never got a response from him BTW so a click/pay option is not available as of now.
I like you.
Take your time!... I just bought a place that is still being built... so no garage to work in until Summer... so I'll mostly be reading tutorials, saving off build threads into my own word docs until then.
And feel free to overly explain it... Looking forward to it.
For those of you who dont have an airbrush and or are 'thinking' about getting one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Ama...Kit-4030-/191136062191?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
This was my first airbrush. Its $20 including a can of propellant and bottles of various paint. Cant go wrong for $20. You will quickly overcome any learning curve and can move up the equipment scale from there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Ama...Kit-4030-/191136062191?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
This was my first airbrush. Its $20 including a can of propellant and bottles of various paint. Cant go wrong for $20. You will quickly overcome any learning curve and can move up the equipment scale from there.
I get most the techniques you mentioned but can you explain:
Chalks?
Charcoal dust. Do you mean literally Charcoal dust rubbed on??
Fine tip pencil. Again do you mean literally drawing on it with a pencil???
Also I have heard Pastels mentioned. What are those????
Thanks
Tom
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Anyone have an Airbrushing for beginners video??? Or Airbrushing for Dummies???
I have a nice Airbrush but no clue how to use it. Last I looked most videos were for more advanced techniques and not basic operation.
Buy a set of cheap pastel chalks from the craft store, rub your color on sandpaper to get a powder, then apply that by rubbing it on the surface of the model with a stiff brush.
It's an incredibly easy technique that's been around forever.
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why two sizes of Cabin cone??
Will you be doing vents as well???
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Thank you. Hitting the craft store ASAP
Hi Jameth.
Many thanks for your interest!
The two sizes are because some guys here at RPF are thinking that the cone is too short. So I'm giving them the opportunity to choose between the standard one or the long version. That's all.
About the vents, I think that JohnnyCrash is doing PE grilles for the vents, if I'm not mistaken.
More to come!
Quick and dirty......you have pressure from your compressor (propellant from the air can) It creates a sucking/venturi from your bottle of paint. the air blows out the tip and sucks out some paint. It sprays the atomized mist onto your subject. The longer you hold it in one spot, the more paint it lays down. I always like to thin the paint because sometimes it will clog in the tip. Youtube is your friend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wekSe5Qp0Co
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PhEFlmD1xE&list=PL7B020657235F87A8&index=4
Just make sure you don't get the oil based pastel chalks... they can be used for weathering but they are a LOT harder to use... so hard I almost NEVER use them...
thumbsupJedi Dade
spacebob
Sr Member
Lear60man , your early paint up was an inspiration to say the least, it showed that even without mods this thing can absolutely sing. I can't wait to see it all finished.
I have a question still regarding the pastels chalks, I'm assuming that you need to seal them after, once that is done is it really permanent or is it "just model" permanent i,e you really shouldn't touch it. Also I had hunch that oil pastels wouldn't be ok, Is this definite as far as the pros are concerned?
NeoRutty I will take it stage by stage, there have already been enough people saying they will be interested in a true beginners guide to make it a pleasure This is the perfect project for such a thread.
Now I know the real thing was painted black first I can understand why the MR falcon has always looked off to me, they put the cart before the horse I'm afraid.
I have a question still regarding the pastels chalks, I'm assuming that you need to seal them after, once that is done is it really permanent or is it "just model" permanent i,e you really shouldn't touch it. Also I had hunch that oil pastels wouldn't be ok, Is this definite as far as the pros are concerned?
NeoRutty I will take it stage by stage, there have already been enough people saying they will be interested in a true beginners guide to make it a pleasure
This is the perfect project for such a thread. Now I know the real thing was painted black first I can understand why the MR falcon has always looked off to me, they put the cart before the horse I'm afraid.
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Pastel chalks can be used to great effect, and yes, they do need to be sealed
Test your clear coats. Do your homework. Very few will remain perfectly clear without yellowing.
In my humble opinion, yellowing is a factor of at least four combined elements:
--Quality/properties of the clear coat
--Amount of clear used
--Lighting the model is subjected to
--Time
I virtually ruined my FM Falcon with heavy-handed use of Testor's Clear Flat while working under 1,500 watts of halogen lighting. A perfect storm of problems. Any one element (Testors, lighting, heavy use) may not have been so bad without combining with the others.
So go light with a high quality clear, without too aggressive lighting...
The chalks should seal well enough with one or two dustings of clear paint. Certainly will with one heavy "wet" coat, and with a decent paint and moderate lighting in your shop and display area, one wet coat shouldn't yellow much at all. Three or four wet coats (like I did!) will though...
Here is an example of pastel chalk weathering with judicious use of clear coating:
Test your clear coats. Do your homework. Very few will remain perfectly clear without yellowing.
In my humble opinion, yellowing is a factor of at least four combined elements:
--Quality/properties of the clear coat
--Amount of clear used
--Lighting the model is subjected to
--Time
I virtually ruined my FM Falcon with heavy-handed use of Testor's Clear Flat while working under 1,500 watts of halogen lighting. A perfect storm of problems. Any one element (Testors, lighting, heavy use) may not have been so bad without combining with the others.
So go light with a high quality clear, without too aggressive lighting...
The chalks should seal well enough with one or two dustings of clear paint. Certainly will with one heavy "wet" coat, and with a decent paint and moderate lighting in your shop and display area, one wet coat shouldn't yellow much at all. Three or four wet coats (like I did!) will though...
Here is an example of pastel chalk weathering with judicious use of clear coating:
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