What flat clear coats do you guys use?

Not sure if you do Miltary or Aviation models but applying decals without a gloss coat first you will have major silvering, not sure how you can have good result applying decals on a matt finish base, would love to see some of your work.

This snowspeeder is covered in quite a few decals and no gloss coat. The paint is Tamiya flat Sky Grey mixed with Tamiya Flat White. I did brush paint matte varnish over the decal itself to seal it, but I didn't cover the entire model in it. There is nothing between the decals and the flat paint, however.

aIV6OOg.jpg


rbfiD8A.jpg


YRY9GuT.jpg


VClkzlU.jpg


mAgKePt.jpg


scqYWM6.jpg
 
The reason a lot of people use Future is because they are using enamel paints for washes. Unless something comes out saying it melts the model or yellows over time, I'd still use it. I haven't found any acrylic gloss coatings that will not have an enamel wash eat right through it. I like to use Testors Dullcote/Glosscote.

BTW, while we're sort of on the topic, how many coats of clear do you guys use on a prop that will be handled? I usually do about two coats, but figured maybe that wouldn't be enough for something that is handled more than I handle my props.
 
Hey Guns,
Do you know if this can be brushed on? (Not as a complete model sealer, but on certain areas or parts).

I've been into this hobby long enough that I really need make the jump to an airbrush but I'm still a little intimidated.

My only experience is applying it via airbrush, but I can't see any reason not to give it a shot brushing it on. :)
 
When you build accurate military WWII planes or fighter jet models were a wash is required with tons of intricate decal markings it's the #1 rule in the world of advanced modeling for proper decal application, but again each have different level of standards when it comes to fine detailing.
 
This snowspeeder is covered in quite a few decals and no gloss coat. The paint is Tamiya flat Sky Grey mixed with Tamiya Flat White. I did brush paint matte varnish over the decal itself to seal it, but I didn't cover the entire model in it. There is nothing between the decals and the flat paint, however.

https://i.imgur.com/aIV6OOg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rbfiD8A.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YRY9GuT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VClkzlU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mAgKePt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/scqYWM6.jpg

Delicious.

SB
 
Testor's will yellow.

I'm sure most will. But on my FM Falcon, I was quite heavy handed with Testor's Flat, and it now looks the color of an old yellowed newspaper.
 
I use Testors Model Master acrylic, too, but now I let it settle and separate then siphon off all the carrier and replace it with lighter fluid.
I learned this from a scale model magazine article. It makes the finish dead flat, as opposed to the milky finish you too often get from using it straight from the bottle.

Also, I don't recommend brushing it on. It exaggerates the milkiness and looks terrible.
 
Tamniya TS-80 Flat Clear rattle can on my Bandi Y-Wing. I *may* have hit it with a gloss before hand to spread the Pastels around better... cant remember. I have also been using Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray with very similar if not identical results.

BEFORE:
IMG_20170106_070100.jpg


ATFTER:
IMG_20180101_163218 (1).jpg
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top