Star Wars Motion Control Project

jdford

New Member
Hey Folks,

Wasn't entirely sure where to start this thread, and I may catch some flak for putting it here (hope not, 'cause I don't know where else to put it, and it's not *really* off-topic). [/caveat]

I'm putting together a fun little project...I'll be attempting to recreate classic Star Wars (Original Trilogy) scale model VFX shots with modern motion control and digital cinema photography. Basically, that means I'll be shooting against a chroma key screen, with whatever motion control rig I'm able to get my hands on. Actually, that's the only piece of the puzzle I have yet to sort out.

I've already secured access to a shooting location with sufficient open space and clearance to set up the screens, lights, models, and precision track. I have access to an Arri Alexa-M digital cinema camera with a 120fps high speed package, and I can most likely get my hands on a Phantom if I really need to. Lights, check. Camera support gear and AKS, check. Power, check.

For models, we'll actually be using large Lego sets. That's right...Legos. I'm not a scale modeler, and I don't have the time or funds to have several OT Star Wars ships built. What I do have is access to a lot of Star Wars Lego kits, and someone who can put them together and "kitbash" like a true Legomaniac. So, for stand-ins, I'm hopeful they'll do alright.

Don't get me wrong, I'd rather shoot legitimate studio scale models. But since this is a DIY, shoe-string budget, "Can I do this in my garage?" (I'm not shooting in my garage, it's just an expression) kind of project...I'll take what I can get. And by incorporating the Legos into the theme of the project, it makes it a little unique, actually.

I'm still pulling together some logistics (like sorting out the motion control), but here's a publicity shot of the camera we'll be using:

AlexaM.jpg


And the actual camera we'll be shooting with (one of the two pictured, at least):

2013-09-20


(Please excuse the messy work area...had a busy day.) :p

Frankly, I'm excited. I've always wanted to see if it was possible to do this...without a massive budget, sound stage, etc. And it might not be possible. I honestly don't know. I've been doing a lot of research and reading on the subject. And even if the whole thing fails miserably it'll be a constructive learning experience.

More updates to follow.


~J. D.
 
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Fun idea. I was just actually thinking about doing the same thing but reversed. Plastic scale models, but build the motion control rig with Lego Mindstorms and Technic. Good luck with your project!
 
Cool project - you might want to consider this for the lego:

Amazon.com: Krylon 1311 Matte Finish Spray for Artists: Home & Kitchen

Otherwise you might be fighting some pretty serious blue spill (or green, green preferably actually), given the reflective nature of the plastic.

On the upside, given today's compositing tools, you wouldn't necessarily have to shoot separate passes depending on what you want to achieve, granting your motion control solution at least a small amount of forgiveness.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
 
Frankly, I'm excited. I've always wanted to see if it was possible to do this...without a massive budget, sound stage, etc. And it might not be possible. I honestly don't know. I've been doing a lot of research and reading on the subject. And even if the whole thing fails miserably it'll be a constructive learning experience.

More updates to follow.


~J. D.

Have a look here, since you have access to lego

DIY Motion Control Rig - YouTube

Jim
 
Cool project - you might want to consider this for the lego:

Amazon.com: Krylon 1311 Matte Finish Spray for Artists: Home & Kitchen

Otherwise you might be fighting some pretty serious blue spill (or green, green preferably actually), given the reflective nature of the plastic.

On the upside, given today's compositing tools, you wouldn't necessarily have to shoot separate passes depending on what you want to achieve, granting your motion control solution at least a small amount of forgiveness.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

We've been discussing solutions for the reflective gray Lego blocks and panels, in particular...and not just for the blue screen but also our point-source key light as well. One thing that'll help with the chroma key spill is our standoff distance from the independently lit blue screen. Going to try to minimize the spill as much as possible...hopefully we can avoid hitting the models with dulling spray, as I'm not sure what kind of lasting effect it'll have on the blocks. If they were my Legos, no problem, but we're "outsourcing" the sets.

As for multiple passes, I think that would still give us the most authentic look, but I'm not going to know until we shoot our first test. It'll also depend on the motion control rig I end up using.

Have a look here, since you have access to lego

DIY Motion Control Rig - YouTube

Jim

Yeah, that's an interesting possibility. My concern is weight. If we were shooting on GoPro Hero3, or even a 5D Mk.II, it wouldn't be an issue. But we're using the Alexa-M, which is a top-tier digital cinema camera. And it's an Arri product, which means pretty much the opposite of lightweight. Sturdy? Yes. Lightweight? No way. Then add on the prime lenses (several pounds each), and camera accessories, rigged cables, etc. You see what I'm getting at.

I don't think the Mindstorm rigs are robust enough. And if I want to do more complex shots, I'm going to need a multi-axis head, which is definitely not an option on a Lego rig. But thanks for the link!

As for project updates, I now have a Gaffer lined up to light the miniatures, and I have a friend with a lot of post experience (including compositing), so we're already discussing workflow and VFX needs. Still working on our blue/green screen drops (luckily I have a professional contact there, so we should be able to get them cheap, if not free). And, of course, the ongoing hunt for a motion control setup.

As far as what we'll be shooting...I've decided that, given how much of this is going to be trial and error technical experimentation, it would be smart to keep things simple until we have our whole workflow sorted. Following that logic, I've decided to recreate the opening sequence from Star Wars (1977), featuring the Imperial Star Destroyer and Rebel Blockade Runner (Tantive IV). That's simple enough to give us some margin of error when it comes to problem solving, but should also keep things challenging and fun.


~J. D.
 
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A polarising filter on the camera will help cut down the worst green/blue spill - you just need to line up the shot and rotate the filter untill the spill is minimised.

Also, if your motion control is repeatable, consider a frontlight/backlight technique where you shoot the model under beauty lighting against black - then reshoot it silhouetted against a white screen to generate a matte pass.
 
Thanks for the advice, b26354. Will definitely take that into consideration.

Picked up a really interesting book online...The Technique of Special Effects Cinematography 4th Ed., by Raymond Fielding (1985).

2013-09-26


Not expecting to be able to pull a lot of 1:1 instruction out of it, since I won't be using any of the tech from the time the book was written.

I'm really reading it for theory and history. That much I can probably take away, if I'm thorough enough. The real trick is taking the old techniques and figuring out ways of updating them for use with new digital cinema gear. Therein lies much of the challenge.


~J. D.
 

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Been just over a month since any new posts. Hoping to hear something more on this, as I know how hard chroma keying can be. Still don't know how it was done so perfect back in the day. Shooting on film probably helped.
 
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