Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Demolition,

I posted on one of your other videos a few days ago about you running your servo's off of your Arduino instead of directly from a power source with a voltage regulator. I would encourage you to change that. It looks like xl97 covered most of that and why.

Also, seems like your eye set up is going to make it very hard to see out of. Have you put it on to see what kind of visibility you have?

Other than that, nice set up when you make some minor changes. Its great to see some of these projects coming together.
 
take a peek a some of the posts/diagrams myself and memebr posted..

it shows more or less same set up.. except pin from Arduino goes to a transistor.. then to LEDS pcbs..

and you power the leds directly from battery through transistor as well..

Arduino toggles or pwms the thransistor..
 
seems like your eye set up is going to make it very hard to see out of. Have you put it on to see what kind of visibility you have? .

visibility it fine theres small gaps at the bottom of the lenses and you can see through there, My old foam helmet didnt even open and when you get warm visibility was zero so any is better than what im use to plus you dont need to see to pose lol thats why you open it when you want to move around
 
I guess I need to hurry up and make the hinge + eye set up thread so we can move this away from the moterisation thread :)
I have lots of tips now and others that I know other people can add. Why is this needed just as I am ripping my kitchen out lol :p
 
IMHO.. the eyes have been covered...

what would be different? unless you are going to make the eye circuit a stand alone (brain/power..etc all-in-one).. sorta like members TheRealStark approach?


and even then nothing would really be different.. just minus the servo code/stuff.. :)

still need transistor/mosfet..etc.. (unless only doing 1-2 leds under 20-40 mA only?)

the physical hinge system(s) people will want to use though.. the more options the better I suppose.. :)
 
As a "Electrician", i need to say that is not that useful, somethings are not OK with your electrical setup.
I'm doing this so you can learn some more on this field.

How the Arduino works in its misterious ways:

The Arduino was designed as a smart control platform. Not to provide power to loads, with that in mind,
the Arduino have a max output of 40mA (0.04A) limited by the micro-controller, anything beyond this will work for a short period of time, but it also will damage the micro-controller very quickly due overload and overheating.

----------------------------------------------//---------------------------------------

The servos magic:

In the spoiler you can see the "universal" specs of 9G servos (the ones you are using)

looking at the datasheet we can see that the Idle current is 2mA, that's totally compatible with the Arduino output, but the running current is 255mA in the best scenario. This is 638% over the Arduino output limit, it will work for a few, but over the time it will damage your Arduino board.

To prevent that, you need to run your servos with a dedicated battery pack, preferentially a regulated Vout one.

----------------------------------------------//---------------------------------------

Bling, Bling:

Lets talk about the LED now, it is working nice cause you only have 1 LED on the board, this one LED is just using 20mA, and this is fine for the arduino, since it can handle 40mA on the output, but, put 2 more in series and you will be in trouble, like the servos you need to run them on a dedicated battery pack.

The right way to apply the LEDs this project is to put them in parallel and connects them to the regulated 5V battery pack, each led with its individual resistor to limit the current.

If you want to keep the fade effect, it will be necessary to use transistors, which operate basically as a relay, but at the same time has the ability to limit the current on the output, using almost no current on its control pin.

----------------------------------------------//---------------------------------------

The sorcery of the single battery pack:

how to use a single battery pack for the whole circuit?
you will need to use a nice battery pack, with 2000mA/h or more, with 7.4 ~ 9V, and regulate the output for your needs.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/oozi/powercircuit_zpsb3eb6640.jpg

You can see in the image that we have a single battery pack, supplying power to the Arduino and to a regulated 5V load at the same time, saving the Arduino from the effort of providing current to the servos and protecting it, this way you are making sure that the Arduino board is working inside the current limitations. (also, you can see that all the GND's are connected together, the battery pack GND, the Arduino GND, the regulator GND and the load GND)


I hope this can help you and perhaps others who are having the same problems.

Hi Memebr,

1.How many Ampere should i use for the VREG based on a 7.4V Lion battery pack?
2.How many Volt for the Condensators?

I also Ordered the 5 SMD LED panels wich Demolition used. Great tip.

Basically my setup wil be (please correct me if something doesnt add up):
7.4V Lion battery pack PLUS(+)wire to
A.->Arduino NANO V3 VIN
B. condensator -> VREG -> condensator -> to a. Servos 1+2 & b. 2x5V LED panels
C. Basic switch and resistor.
Ground (-)wire of every single element to -> Arduino ground.

Is it for someone possible to make me an scematic of this in the programm you use.

Almost finished the helmet build. Smoothing edges and stuf, drilling holes for screw elements. Hopefully painted ready next weekend. Fingers crossed. Here are some pics of the actual progress.
Photo 1.jpgPhoto 2.jpg
 
(I have no clue what you are asking in question #1 & #2)

what is this: "condensator "?? and how does it apply here? where is this coming from? use?

* are you trying to say transistor?

and yes.. we have already made a schematic & wiring diagram..

go back a few pages and look..

both myself & memebr posted some.
 
(I have no clue what you are asking in question #1 & #2)

what is this: "condensator "?? and how does it apply here? where is this coming from? use?

* are you trying to say transistor?

and yes.. we have already made a schematic & wiring diagram..

go back a few pages and look..

both myself & memebr posted some.

Yes i am sorry. Here in the netherlands an transistor is called a condensator. :p
What i mean is that wenn i look for a 5V Transistor 7805 sometimes they have 1,5A 1A or 0,5A

Its based on the diagram on page 35.
What programm you use to make this?
 
still confused.. LOL :)


7805 is NOT a transistor (or condensator)..

the 7805 is a voltage regulator..
you'll need one that can provide enough current for your project.. Id' think 0.5A wouldnt be enough?


the diagram on page 35 is how to 'properly' set-up a voltage regulator for stable output

normally.. it'll be like 'waves'... so the power isnt very stable..
you use caps to 'smooth' this wave out into a stable/steady power source.


"I" make my diagrams in photoshop..but these others were made using a program called FRITZING (its free)

http://fritzing.org/

these are the basic diagrams you should follow:

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index32.html#post2936077

^ **ignore how the button is set-up as this does NOT use an external resistor and uses internal pull-up resistor in code/chip..**


http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index30.html#post2930978

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index30.html#post2931061


along with adding the 2 caps to the voltage regulator (7805) for a stable input/output:

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index35.html#post2946104
 
LOL, the condensator he was referring, are the CAPACITORS, and for those, 20~35V 10uF are good enough.

the 7805 usually is 1A so stick to 1A

for the rest, read xl97 post again!
 
still confused.. LOL :)


7805 is NOT a transistor (or condensator)..

the 7805 is a voltage regulator..
you'll need one that can provide enough current for your project.. Id' think 0.5A wouldnt be enough?


the diagram on page 35 is how to 'properly' set-up a voltage regulator for stable output

normally.. it'll be like 'waves'... so the power isnt very stable..
you use caps to 'smooth' this wave out into a stable/steady power source.


"I" make my diagrams in photoshop..but these others were made using a program called FRITZING (its free)

http://fritzing.org/

these are the basic diagrams you should follow:

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index32.html#post2936077

^ **ignore how the button is set-up as this does NOT use an external resistor and uses internal pull-up resistor in code/chip..**


http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index30.html#post2930978

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index30.html#post2931061


along with adding the 2 caps to the voltage regulator (7805) for a stable input/output:

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-...nics-tutorial-170853/index35.html#post2946104


Tnx for this great index! now its easyer to find the best posts in this thread. I think the schematics are amazing and practically usefull for everyone!

Now i just neet to find the right 7.4V 2000mah Li-ion Battery...not so easy over here :/
(ps. most of them have 2 cables coming out with 2 different connectors. 1 is for power (+/-) but the other?
 
JayCVenlo -

got a link to these odd batteries?

Li-Ions or Li-Po's usually come in 3.7v configs and vary in mA(h) ratings..

order from ebay, dealextreme, sparkfun...etc..
 
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oh? your asking memebr for his advice only?

i am just asking for (anyones) advice /If you could help me/us out..GREAT!...
Memebr adviced a 7.4V li-ion battery with 2000mah. Just wanted someone to tell me what kind, or examples what they should look like. :D

So that everyone knows how to power it :D
 
lol, listen to xl97, kids.

well, like it was said by xl97, the battery pack can be made for your needs, i will make a post just on this topic later, with a lot of graphic content....
 
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lol, listen to @xl97, kids.

well, like it was said by xl97, the battery pack can be made for your needs, i will make a post just on this topic later, with a lot of graphic content....

TNX that would be great.. I need powerrrr!!! LOL
I really want to order the components to finish this. (yesterday i called a local RC shop for a 7.4V 2200 mah lipo and charger, total € 75,- :O , that cant be right!??)
 
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