Obi-Wan tpm 3D printed lightsaber

Ooh. Genius idea! I will have to look into that.

Thank you for the suggestion.


You could try putting a ridge on the inside of the three vertical prongs, running down to the base, and add matching grooves into the ribbed inside part. Basically make them T-shaped in cross section. That should add a lot of strength with minimal impact on appearance.




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Re-printed the pommel. Came out perfect. They snap together in such a satisfying way. Made some changes to the emitter sleeve and inner emitter part. Those are printing right now. Hopefully those parts will be perfect as well. I implemented the suggestion Anubis had.

I am planning a change to the grip sleeve and inner grip parts and how the connect. If all goes well with printing, then the design will be done.

It’s so exciting to almost be done.

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Here’s a shot of the two prototypes. I think the new one on the right looks great.


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I think the steps on pommel near the thin section are a bit inaccurate. The first step should have a smaller diameter and the next bevel (wider diameter) should be less sharp.
After the thick alu section (that the Covertec clip is on), the black bevelled section should have a smaller widest diameter, about 1-2 mm smaller than the alu section.

The emitter should have about 1.5mm wall thickness. Yours looks like it is just a fraction too thin.

I'm sorry for not noticing this thread earlier before you had started printing.

My Ep1 stunt saber is 283.02mm. But, this is a resin casting of the original hero, so you might want to adjust based on the shrinkage that would have occurred.
I think someone posted measurements of Master Replicas' "Obi-Wan TPM LE" somewhere. There must be several really old threads comparing them.
Master Replicas also sold a blueprint with several measurements.

Looks great! One last thing I noticed. The cut out at the bottom of the grip should be made straight on like this. You have it from the side.

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Are you sure that the shape on your stunt? I thought it was cut with the cutter being orthogonal to the tube surface, facing straight into the tube's centre and the tube rotating as it is being cut.
 
Darth Lars, ill look into it. The way it is currently is how the blueprints that I started with shows it, but ill pay more attention to that spot on screen grabs and other images. The emitter is currently 1.70 mm.

Don't worry, i'll print as many copies of these parts as needed to get that perfect balance of movie accuracy and ease of printing.






I think the steps on pommel near the thin section are a bit inaccurate. The first step should have a smaller diameter and the next bevel (wider diameter) should be less sharp.
After the thick alu section (that the Covertec clip is on), the black bevelled section should have a smaller widest diameter, about 1-2 mm smaller than the alu section.

The emitter should have about 1.5mm wall thickness. Yours looks like it is just a fraction too thin.

I'm sorry for not noticing this thread earlier before you had started printing.


I think someone posted measurements of Master Replicas' "Obi-Wan TPM LE" somewhere. There must be several really old threads comparing them.
Master Replicas also sold a blueprint with several measurements.


Are you sure that the shape on your stunt? I thought it was cut with the cutter being orthogonal to the tube surface, facing straight into the tube's centre and the tube rotating as it is being cut.
 
Since my emitter sleeve print keeps failing, I have no pictures to show off. So I’ll talk about the model a bit. How it should work once printed and how many pieces.

Pommel is straight forward. It’s three pieces, end cap, cubes and main body. Body and cubes snap together and then they snap into the end cap.

Body sleeve is three pieces. Outer sleeve, grip and inner grip. Outer sleeve has two rails that strengthen the thin sleeve shell, the grip slide inside along the rails keeping it in correct orientation and then the inner grip slides inside of that.

Emitter is five parts. Outer sleeve with rails for strength and alignment purposes. Inner emitter slides inside of that along the rails which keeps it oriented correctly. Then the three LED detail pieces which should snap into place. If not a little glue will help.

Once those are assembled you can snap the body and emitter together. Once lined up insert the red button and brass valve into the emitter holes. This should lock it onto the body. Then snap the pommel in place.

Covertec wheel is two pieces. Top and bottom. You can glue them together or just stack them, insert a screw and then find the indent on the body sleev and line it up and screw it in.

So that is a total of 15 parts. Is there anything anyone wants to know or anything you guys want added?

I will know for sure that all of this works once I finish printing the current prototypes. On paper it all works. Lol


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Ugh. Having the most frustratingly difficult time with this emitter.

Ok I need some volunteers with a 3d printer. Does anyone want to volunteer to print this file and see if they run into any issues?




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Printed out the grip parts and had a slight tolerance issue which was solved by a bit of sanding. Made changes to the design and it’s now final.

On to the emitter parts now. Printing the emitter sleeve right now. Hopefully it finishes this time. Slowed it down to 30mm/sec and added support. With the design changes and printer speed adjustments I’m feel optimistic. It’s bed time now. Have a good night everyone.

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Finally!!! I got the emitter to print. After four failures I had a successful one. I flipped it upside down and printed with a lot of support material. But it finished and looks amazing.

Now I’m printing the inner emitter.


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I added the LED pieces and buttons. Looks amazing.


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I’m done with the prototypes. All files have been finalized for now. My beta testers are printing and hopefully everything goes well.

Printing on my end is done. Tell me what you think.

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All the parts laid out. Except the covertec wheel.

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Fully assembled

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Here it is with my v2 and v3 for size comparison. I’m hoping the size is close to accurate.


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