Blade Runner 2049 Officer K badge wallet

Is it possible to wire more batteries up to that size of an inverter, or is the inverter itself not powerful enough regardless of battery capacity?
 
@buzby Looks great! I just got my step up converter today, and reading week is coming up so I should be able to get everything together at some point this break.
 
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warvanov said:
Looks great! I'm glad that the design worked for you.

I've got some transparent paper coming from amazon tomorrow so I'm going to try printing the design on that to see if it works. I might be able to use the same transparency as the wrap around plastic, depending on how thick it is and what the adhesive is like.

I've got an EL panel which fits the wallet I ordered, but I'm struggling with how to find a place for the inverter and power supply. I want to make the wallet a standalone prop without an external power source, even if it's a little thick, and I have no experience with with wiring or modifying electronics, so I'll just have to tinker with it I guess.
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Thanks for putting your artwork up for us!

I looked at EL sheets first, and couldn't work out a way to build an inverter and power source into the wallet for the size of panel required (from the prop displayed at SDCC and the way Gosling handles it in the film it's obviously not got an external power supply).. That's when I started looking at phone screen backlight panels instead, as LEDs are a bit easier to drive (and a lot cheaper - my backlight panel cost £3)

Also, having just looked again at the pictures from SDCC, I think they may have used the same idea for hiding the power supply for the ID behind the badge as I have - I think I can see a wire running across the fold at the top from behind the badge to the ID:
supply_wire.jpg

MAJSmith said:
I’ll have to wrap the ends on my next one. I was under the impression that they were stitched.
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It looks like they are wrapped under and then stitched. My guess is that the stitching was done later, possibly due to the PVC stretching and becoming 'baggy' from use. The only method I can think of for how it was constructed would be to stitch the outer ends of the inner panels to the back part, then wrap the PVC cover and glue it under the inner ends of the inner panels, then stitch the PVC along the top, bottom and inner edges of the inner panels, and finally stitch the top and bottom edges of the inner panels to the back part.
 
buzby said:
Finally got the PVC cover for my wallet sorted out. I went for 0.35mm - I got samples of that and 0.6mm, which was too thick. I did some adhesive tests and found superglue worked well for both PVC to leather and PVC to itself (I also tried E6000 which held both joints and was a bit more flexible but it's not very controllable, and Thixofix contact cement with worked OK on the leather to PVC, but gave way on bonding PVC to itself).

I eyeballed a paper template first to work out the llength and width of the piece I needed to cut to wrap around and tuck in the open ends of the wallet. I then measured the template and cut it out of the PVC I did a dry run to check the length was still OK (it needed a little trimming) and discovered that the static adhesion of the PVC wrap to the inside of the PVC window on the ID side was strong enough that i wouldn't have to glue it. This was fortunate, as it had the potential to get very messy gluing it while tucking it in. That just meant I had to glue it under the badge side, which I did using a professional Loctite CA gel (it comes in packs called Takpak, for glueing mod wires to PCBs). This gave me the chance to position it perfectly before applying pressure to complete the bond.

While I had my ID and badge out to do this, I updated the ID transparency to @warvanov 's latest version, after a bit of resizing and a slight adjustment of some of the elements to make it look right when sized for my backlight. Here's the results:
View attachment 795858View attachment 795859View attachment 795860View attachment 795861
I'm quite pleased with the way it looks. The PVC is wrapped tight enough that it clings to the surface of the leather so it doesn't really need to be stitched. It also clings to itself, which helps keep the wallet closed. The last picture is the best I've been able to get so far of it when it's lit up, and you can see it's bright enough to have effected the camera exposure. Easily a match for the brightness of the real prop in the film.
Click to expand...
We're did you find the Plastic?

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 
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So I finally finished mine (at least for now). I kind of destroyed the reed switch that I had trying to get it out of its plastic housing and Im not really wanting to invest more $$ into this project right now, so I was forced to normal button switch which unfortunately is external, (though after I wrapped it up it kinda just looks like a loop to hang it from something) someday I will put in a less visible switch but for now it is ok. I also might work with the ID to get it a better size/more accurate but this one works fine for now as well. The wallet is not perfect, but overall I think it turned out good. If anybody has any questions or comments let me know! Also I wanted to thank everyone who gave me ideas and advice for my project, could not have done it otherwise!
_MG_8719.jpg_MG_8763-1.jpgIMG_6036-1.jpgIMG_6033-1.jpg_MG_8778-1.jpg_MG_8777-1.jpg_MG_8774-1.jpg_MG_8772-1.jpg_MG_8768-1.jpgIMG_6038-1.jpg
Was kind of difficult to get good photos of the lit ID indoors, it is very bright.
 
Well done!!!! I’m kicking around the idea of hollowing out the badge, but I’m new to the dremel and don’t want to destroy it.
 
MAJSmith said:
Well done!!!! I’m kicking around the idea of hollowing out the badge, but I’m new to the dremel and don’t want to destroy it.
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Thanks! Yeah I was very careful in doing it, only went deep enough to partially recess my electronics. I figured that id sacrifice some space for safety.

kurtyboy said:
Very nice indeed. Is that their oval cutout or is it specifically LAPD?
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Thank you as well! It is the LAPD one.
 
Victor Davion said:
So I finally finished mine (at least for now). I kind of destroyed the reed switch that I had trying to get it out of its plastic housing and Im not really wanting to invest more $$ into this project right now, so I was forced to normal button switch which unfortunately is external, (though after I wrapped it up it kinda just looks like a loop to hang it from something) someday I will put in a less visible switch but for now it is ok. I also might work with the ID to get it a better size/more accurate but this one works fine for now as well. The wallet is not perfect, but overall I think it turned out good. If anybody has any questions or comments let me know! Also I wanted to thank everyone who gave me ideas and advice for my project, could not have done it otherwise!
Click to expand...
Well done! Thew reed switches are avaialble without the encapsulation (in fact, it's very unusual to find a Normally Closed/changeover reed switch in a casing, as they aren't the type used on alarm systems or proximity sensors - they use the Normally Open type). They are very delicate though - I always buy them in pairs, and lost one bending the legs to fit in my badge.
MAJSmith said:
Well done!!!! I’m kicking around the idea of hollowing out the badge, but I’m new to the dremel and don’t want to destroy it.
Click to expand...
The filler resin (GG uses 2 types - the aluminium-loaded stuff for the front detail, and a cheaper plain resin as a filler) is quite soft, so you can have the tool running quite slowly and don't need much pressure to carefully grind it away. I used a cheap slow rechargable one to cut the channels for the wiring and reed switch and it was far easier than using my speed-adjustable mains powered one that I used for the battery and PSU recesses. If I were to do another, I now know I could decrease how deep I went by maybe 1-2mm.too.
 
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buzby said:
Well done! Thew reed switches are avaialble without the encapsulation (in fact, it's very unusual to find a Normally Open/changeover reed switch in a casing, as they aren't the type used on alarm systems or proximity sensors - they use the Normally Closed type). They are very delicate though - I always buy them in pairs, and lost one bending the legs to fit in my badge.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Do you have a good source for the reed switches or did you just go off of eBay or something?
 
Victor Davion said:
Thanks! Do you have a good source for the reed switches or did you just go off of eBay or something?
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I'm in the UK, so my sources probably won't be of much use to you. Normally Closed are very hard to find, but Changeover reed switches are easier to come by. They can be identified by having 3 leads instead of two. The input lead is at one end, and there are two output leads at the other:
N95BT_1

This one is an Assemtech RI-90 micro changeover reed switch from Maplin, (a UK Radio Shack-type place). You should be able to find similar ones on ebay or any general electronics supplier though.

Without a magnet being present, the reed will contact one of the output leads (this is the Normally Closed or NC output). When a magnet is present, the reed 'changes over' to the other output lead (which is Normally Open, or NO). You just need to carefully snip off the Normally Open lead as close to the glass as you safely can, as its the NC one you need to use for the walle (you want it to turn off when the magnet is near it).
 
Oh ok thanks, will look into that. I was unaware of this particular configuration, looks like it would be perfect, like you said the NC type are hard to find usually.
 
TheMechanic said:
I have a badge and I.d. card on the way but need a wallet. I don't care if it lights up. Anything ready made that fits the bill?
Click to expand...

Anything already cut to the LAPD-style badge will work. Get it with the smallest ID card window you can find and it’ll be the best fit. I’ll snap a pic in a minute of the wallet I’m using. It’s a small badge wallet that I cut to fit and it works perfectly.
 
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