Studio Scale (:p) AT-AT

Duncanator said:
Wow !! You don't miss a thing! I was working with a non-CNC lathe that had a lot of slop in it unfortunately, so it was hard to keep it as consistent as I would have liked. It's pretty darn close - just a hair's width here and there.
Click to expand...


Thanks.
Mine is manual too but I have digital caliber on it that helps quite a lot with things like that.

Something like this.
http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Lathe_Digital_Readouts.htm


Ah and buy the way thank you a lot for all the info u are providing us.
That really helped.
 
Last edited:
It's what Felix did that counts though, that's a useable part and not just 1's and 0's. Looks great Felix.

If we had measurements to go by from the start, the armature would've been done a long time ago.. but that would've saved me from all the fun. :)

I'm thinking the originals may have had some shrinkage, so after they're cast they may be between 1mm and 1/32". Comparing a kit part to
the master should help with that.

Thanks John, maybe we should go with 1 1/16". Ours will be cast in flexible PU, that should let the armature squeeze against the walls and provide a little "give" I'm guessing.
 
Last edited:
That would be great if they were a tad smaller after shrinking lol, 0.5 mm smaller would fit the head I made better ! :p Happy to know I was pretty close though :)
 
Thanks guys.
Matt don't put your self down. U have done some outstanding work!
This project wouldn't be possible without you.

J
If you want I can make the master a bit small.
Now it's exactly 57,15mm.
If we make it 57 or 56,9mm that should be fine including the shrinkage.
 
Thanks Felix,
I think this is too much project for anyone to handle alone (well besides north3 :)
so we'll rely on each other to get it done.

I'm throwing some extra tubing into the package I'm fwd'ing to Quincy in case
you want to cut them even more precise than I did. I started cutting a notch in the side of one piston but
don't have the right equipment or trust in my skills to do it right so I included a diagram with measurements.
There should be enough extra round rod stock incl. to use for the top section of the foot/ankle damper too when
we get to that.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys !

north3 said:
looking really good ! im especially looking forward to watching you paint it , so i can pick up some tips !!
everytime i catch up with your work , i see all the parts ive never seen / noticed before , particularly on the harrier parts !
is the bumpy lump along the top made by yourself or a kit part ? i could never figure it out so just made it
how are the legs coming along ?
i still think you will finish before me !!!!!!


http://www.therpf.com/f11/atat-w-i-p-107841/
Click to expand...

Oops missed your post Jon !

Thank you ! Yeah there are a lot of parts, mainly on the Harrier, that have been found some weeks ago.
The bumpy lump is scratched (I think it was too on the original).

Cant speak about the legs myself, but I know Matt is cooking something awesome and that Felix is ready to mill some aluminium ! :D

Some more pics.

Cheek gun master :



In place on the model (I drill the hole for the pivot on the right side too low :( will have to correct that !)







Much more accurate than the crappy MR guns ! :D
 
Those guns really liven it up. Sexy stuff!!

Have the gun parts been ID'd yet? Can you share what parts make them up? Just out of curiosity I'd like to know. That's an awesome assembly.
 
Thanks Scott,
Flakvierling38, Nelson, Mobelwagen, nothing new... except the rear which is from the Entex Porsche. The rest was scratchbuilt on the original using tubing and stock styrene.

I miss one small part though, but there is no good pic of it, I tried to take some but they dont help. And on the MR it's covered with snow. :(
 
MonsieurTox said:
Thanks Scott,
Flakvierling38, Nelson, Mobelwagen, nothing new... except the rear which is from the Entex Porsche. The rest was scratchbuilt on the original using tubing and stock styrene.

I miss one small part though, but there is no good pic of it, I tried to take some but they dont help. And on the MR it's covered with snow. :(
Click to expand...

Send me a pic of what your missing if you can, I've some AT=AT shots and an none snowed up MR
 
Came out great!

That small plate on the forward area of the flakvierling you're looking for reminds me of the one that sits under the front of the harrier engine. Too bad
it's such a crusty mess now that almost all the surface details are hidden.
 
Last edited:
Guy Cowen said:
Send me a pic of what your missing if you can, I've some AT=AT shots and an none snowed up MR
Click to expand...

Guy, this is this part :



dragnink said:
Came out great!

That small plate on the forward area of the flakvierling you're looking for reminds me of the one that sits under the front of the harrier engine. Too bad
it's such a crusty mess now that almost all the surface details are hidden.
Click to expand...

Yes but it is way smaller :( I found a part from the Marder 1A2 that could be the part, but there is no way to tell if that's correct or not. :(
 
Hey Julien, great work on the AT-AT. Do you think the part you are looking for is this one? part.jpg
 
This thread is more than 8 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

SCUDMAN
STUDIO SCALE 3D PRINTED AT-ST
Replies
12
Views
1,178
joberg
joberg
Ntyrrell
Studio Scale AT-AT Parts Breakdown and ID Help
Replies
11
Views
1,186
rooker2k
rooker2k
dtssyst
Studio Scale AT-AT build by dtssyst
Replies
19
Views
2,166
Boxcar Bret
Boxcar Bret
N
AT AT parts help ….
Replies
17
Views
1,395
PeetL
PeetL
G
More AT-AT Part References Needed!
Replies
0
Views
326
GazChurchend
G
Back
Top