Luke ROTJ Lightsaber v3

Skigro

Well-Known Member
I was bored last night and wanted to play around with fusion 360 so I found a design with measurements for Luke’s saber. Thought I’d post here and share some images. What do you think? Not completely done yet. Still learning fusion 360. Anyone have accurate dimensions for the other versions of Luke’s ROTJ lightsaber? I’d really like to model those as well.

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Very good so far! What are your plans for the clamp? There is another user on here doing a 3D model of the shared stunt if you’d like to see his progress. https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=262160. I still don’t think anyone is making an accurate V2 3D model. Maybe that could be your next project?;)

I haven’t even planned the clamp yet. I’ll do that last. I still need to do the chamfers on the pommel. Add the set screws and other details. Then I want to split it apart so it’s easy to print and assemble.

Yeah the v2 I’d love to do next. I just need to figure out the dimensions for it.

Anyone have dimensions for the v2?



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i seriously need to get a good computer so i can fool around with this stuff. you dont know how much i envy you and your skills. truly amazing, very talented!
 
Thanks for the kind words. I’m a newbie when it comes to fusion 360. I was just playing around with it and kind of just stumbled my way through.


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Quick update. I adjusted some measurements of the handle grooves. (They are all same diameter now.) I also added the holes in the windvane, emitter and pommel.
 

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Another update. I have all the parts split. Ready for threads. I’m having issues with the threads in fusion 360. They seem to line up the way I need them to. Also added the cuts to the pommel cubes.


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Looking good! Check the angles on your grip grooves - when originally lathed they would have been done by a plunge cut with the same tool for each - so the angle of the groove would be uniform for all (the spacing and/or depth of the cut varied, though, IIRC)
 
Looking good! Check the angles on your grip grooves - when originally lathed they would have been done by a plunge cut with the same tool for each - so the angle of the groove would be uniform for all (the spacing and/or depth of the cut varied, though, IIRC)


The designs or blueprints I was using shows them as multiple sizes. Most 5mm but a few are at 4mm and 6mm.

Do I have bad blueprints?




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i seriously need to get a good computer so i can fool around with this stuff. you dont know how much i envy you and your skills. truly amazing, very talented!

Hey @halliwax ! This guy has several videos about Fusion 360 on YouTube that I've been watching to learn as much about the program as I can before downloading the free trial version...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g


Hey @Psych0ticmisfit ! That same guy has a thread tutorial in Part 2 starting at 16:13...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXRMzJWo0-Q

Here's another of his videos strictly discussing Thread Measurements in Fusion 360, maybe it relates to your problem...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT5nJUKRNnA



I thought I had a Bookmark for a Fusion 360 Thread Tutorial, but it looks like they're Solidworks Tutorials. Still they might help you with your threading...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdFNOLJHtpU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4vOLZ3sL30



I'm not sure if Fusion 360 has the COMBINE feature, but if it does, you can model one object's threads and then make the exact thread placement on the joining part with it, check it out at 14:30...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDg1ZXjIEio



I hope this helps you both somewhat!
 
The designs or blueprints I was using shows them as multiple sizes. Most 5mm but a few are at 4mm and 6mm.

Do I have bad blueprints?

They will be different widths and depths, yes. I think he's saying that the degree of each angle will always be the same due to the tool used to cut each groove.

It looks like you've varied the groove angles between 50 and 95 degrees (roughly guessing) in order to keep the groove depths all the same. The depths will vary though and it's the angles that'll all be the same.

This pic illustrates it well:

Rare-LFL-Lucasfilm-Archives-Movie-Prop-Lost-Photos-Star-Wars-Indiana-Jones-Historic-Visit-Origin.jpg
 
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Hey @halliwax ! This guy has several videos about Fusion 360 on YouTube that I've been watching to learn as much about the program as I can before downloading the free trial version...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g


Hey @Psych0ticmisfit ! That same guy has a thread tutorial in Part 2 starting at 16:13...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXRMzJWo0-Q

Here's another of his videos strictly discussing Thread Measurements in Fusion 360, maybe it relates to your problem...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT5nJUKRNnA



I thought I had a Bookmark for a Fusion 360 Thread Tutorial, but it looks like they're Solidworks Tutorials. Still they might help you with your threading...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdFNOLJHtpU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4vOLZ3sL30



I'm not sure if Fusion 360 has the COMBINE feature, but if it does, you can model one object's threads and then make the exact thread placement on the joining part with it, check it out at 14:30...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDg1ZXjIEio



I hope this helps you both somewhat!

I’m going to check this out tonight when I get home. I’ve very interested, always wanted to experiment with this. First need to get a powerful enough computer, hopefully I score this job in the spring and I can get a new computer
 
The designs or blueprints I was using shows them as multiple sizes. Most 5mm but a few are at 4mm and 6mm.

Do I have bad blueprints?




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Sorry, I suppose it comes down to personal preference - if you are idealizing the grips to have a uniform depth (reference clearly shows varying depths), it might look better to set a uniform shape to the grooves and only vary the grip ring width. That would sort of give it a "hero" look, though.

I'm going to take back part of my argument - that the original may have had different widths due to the depth of cut, but the angle between the two faces of the grip groove should be identical for all grooves. That would be true if the lightsaber were turned on a metal lathe, as the "hero" version was. In this case, weren't the V2 and Shared Stunt cast from a wood master? In that case you might expect to see more variance in the grip groove angles as a wood lathe bit is hand-held. They do look fairly consistent in angle, though:

grip.jpg
 
Sorry, I suppose it comes down to personal preference - if you are idealizing the grips to have a uniform depth (reference clearly shows varying depths), it might look better to set a uniform shape to the grooves and only vary the grip ring width. That would sort of give it a "hero" look, though.

I'm going to take back part of my argument - that the original may have had different widths due to the depth of cut, but the angle between the two faces of the grip groove should be identical for all grooves. That would be true if the lightsaber were turned on a metal lathe, as the "hero" version was. In this case, weren't the V2 and Shared Stunt cast from a wood master? In that case you might expect to see more variance in the grip groove angles as a wood lathe bit is hand-held. They do look fairly consistent in angle, though:

View attachment 782819



Ah ok I understand what you are saying. I’m trying to make it accurate enough to be recognizable. I’ve set the dimensions from ridge to ridge and from grove to ridge. I however did not set the angle. Do you know what the angle should be off hand? The blueprints I have do not give the diameter of each individual groove. So I made them all the same.

Here’s the blueprints I’m going off of.

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Update...

I fixed the groove angles. now the radius of the grooves are of varying sizes. I adjusted a few other measurements and I was finally able to get the threading to work the way I needed it to. I played around with the animation in Fusion 360 and made a quick video of the pieces.

[video]https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2acbfc7/g/shares/SHabee1QT1a327cf2b7abf64025e34c374ab[/video]

Now I need to ask, how does the pommel and pommel cubes look? im not happy with it. but I want to know what others think.

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v3--pommel.png

Luke-ROTJ-stunt_v3--top (1).png
 
It would be great to uncover some COLOR reference pics that clearly showed what the V3 actually looked like during the filming of "Jedi" vs. its current "restored" appearance.

I have to believe that it looked much more like the V2 during filming.
 
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