Darth Vader Helmet PLEASE HELP

N

Nick Anzalone

Guest
Hey experts. When I repainted my plastic Rubies Supreme Darth Vader Helmet , the process went perfect. I had zero issues with paint. With that said, I am in the middle of repainting this Fiberglass Darth Vader Helmet for the 3rd time. After spraying the gloss black, I let it dry for 7 days. Then to do the gunmetal, I tape off the black, exactly like I did with the Rubies. When I remove the tape, the gloss black tape is all messed up with tape marks and gloss removed. I can't figure out why the Fiberglass Vader is not working ou 14518559_10207363606433061_1977394545_n.jpg14454045_10207363606233056_36800855_o.jpgt like the Plastic one. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I am using tamiya tape.

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I repainted a don post helmet and had no problems but I had the same problem with my fiberglass boba helmet.. interesting..

Alex

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk
 
I know. I can't figure it out. The Plastic Rubies went without one problem. I'm drying for 7 days. I don't get it.
alexmiller1 said:
I repainted a don post helmet and had no problems but I had the same problem with my fiberglass boba helmet.. interesting..

Alex

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk
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Is the tape leaving a residue that is affecting the sheen of the black paint underneath? Or is it actually lifting the paint up off the the surface of the mask? For the former, I would try buffing it out or using something mild to remove the residue from the tape.

i suspect it is the latter. And that's trickier. Seems like the paint is just not adhering to the fiberglass. Assuming you did the usual sand, clean, really clean, prime, then paint. It could just be that you need a stronger primer or black paint. I use the self etching paints myself. They have a bit more "bite" and it minimizes the "Aargh!" factor down the road. In SoCal, you shouldn't need to wait a full week to mask and overspray with the gunmetal.

Gene
 
Hey Gene,
Yea...I clean, sand to get the old clear coat off, then primer, then wet sand, then paint the gloss. It does work to wet sand the black parts once the tape is removed,ten buff it out, but you still don't get that original shine the gloss left. It's not pulling the paint up, it's leaving it looking wrinkly kind of. It's causing indentations as well. I can't figure out why the plastic Rubies didn't do this. I"m not familiar with etching paint. Thank you so much for the response :)
Nick

GKvfx said:
Is the tape leaving a residue that is affecting the sheen of the black paint underneath? Or is it actually lifting the paint up off the the surface of the mask? For the former, I would try buffing it out or using something mild to remove the residue from the tape.

i suspect it is the latter. And that's trickier. Seems like the paint is just not adhering to the fiberglass. Assuming you did the usual sand, clean, really clean, prime, then paint. It could just be that you need a stronger primer or black paint. I use the self etching paints myself. They have a bit more "bite" and it minimizes the "Aargh!" factor down the road. In SoCal, you shouldn't need to wait a full week to mask and overspray with the gunmetal.

Gene
Click to expand...
 
DCarty was having issues painting my Vader helmet - the paint wouldn't set. We let it sit for a few weeks, and it was still as tacky.

The best we could come up with was the fiberglass was contaminated. So we sent it off to another Vader Guy, and he seems to have figured it out. ...but it's an ancient Chinese Secret, so he won't tell me what he did. :lol
 
Nick Anzalone said:
Hey Gene,
Yea...I clean, sand to get the old clear coat off, then primer, then wet sand, then paint the gloss. It does work to wet sand the black parts once the tape is removed,ten buff it out, but you still don't get that original shine the gloss left. It's not pulling the paint up, it's leaving it looking wrinkly kind of. It's causing indentations as well. I can't figure out why the plastic Rubies didn't do this. I"m not familiar with etching paint. Thank you so much for the response :)
Nick
Click to expand...

That's.....even weirder. Could be a chemical reaction in the FG that is causing the paint NOT to fully cure. In which case, waiting longer than a week might not even help the issue. Not that this is the issue, but when it comes to tape, I tend to go with the Tamiya line of masking tapes. Sharp lines and I've never had it react to a paint unless the paint wasn't adhering to the base. Have you tried a Post-it Note and seen if that does the same thing? Also, if I suspect an issue like this, I try to get the tape on, painted, and then removed as soon as possible.

Gene
 
Uh oh ... I can see problems for my Vader project ...

I had bought a helmet from a member, upon arrival I noticed that the helmet was all tacky. I took off a lot of the paint, both with paint remover and mechanically, but havent tried to repaint it. So I will have to prep myself for the moment of truth when the paint wont cure ...
 
If you used a rattle can, check to see if it's xylene based. If so, it may be reacting to the FG. Two part automotive finishes in rattle cans do well with FG.
 
Thank you everyone....these are all very helpful. I did recently switch paints. I didn't even think of that.

- - - Updated - - -

So weird. I have painted so many plastic helmets....abs....never ever had a problem. The gloss is just not doing well with this one. I really don't have a clue whyl. Its mind boggling.
DaddyfromNaboo said:
Uh oh ... I can see problems for my Vader project ...

I had bought a helmet from a member, upon arrival I noticed that the helmet was all tacky. I took off a lot of the paint, both with paint remover and mechanically, but havent tried to repaint it. So I will have to prep myself for the moment of truth when the paint wont cure ...
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Yea...I am using the same tape...the Tamiya...I love that stuff. I wonder if like Karmafish said...if it has to do with me switching paint. I'll have to check that out.
GKvfx said:
That's.....even weirder. Could be a chemical reaction in the FG that is causing the paint NOT to fully cure. In which case, waiting longer than a week might not even help the issue. Not that this is the issue, but when it comes to tape, I tend to go with the Tamiya line of masking tapes. Sharp lines and I've never had it react to a paint unless the paint wasn't adhering to the base. Have you tried a Post-it Note and seen if that does the same thing? Also, if I suspect an issue like this, I try to get the tape on, painted, and then removed as soon as possible.

Gene
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God Dang it...I Hate Ancient Chinese secrets :behave. It would be really nice to know what he did. The only difference is mine is not tacky to the touch. It feels 100% dry. That's the odd part. Also.....It's really bugging me that it worked GREAT with my Rubies Mod, but won't work with the Fiberglass...ugh!
craigjohn said:
DCarty was having issues painting my Vader helmet - the paint wouldn't set. We let it sit for a few weeks, and it was still as tacky.

The best we could come up with was the fiberglass was contaminated. So we sent it off to another Vader Guy, and he seems to have figured it out. ...but it's an ancient Chinese Secret, so he won't tell me what he did. :lol
Click to expand...
 
I am using this paint, with 2X Primer. Someone told me get away from the 2X Primer.
41MiNFQEYoL._SY355_.jpg
Karmafish said:
If you used a rattle can, check to see if it's xylene based. If so, it may be reacting to the FG. Two part automotive finishes in rattle cans do well with FG.
Click to expand...
 
I just looked at the data sheet for your paint. I'm pretty sure it's not playing well with fiberglass. Since this might be a little delicate, I'll let the pros take it from here.
 
Your awesome man :) I did some looking myself. I have a feeling I need to go to some Duplicolor Automotive paint. I think your absolutely correct. The FB does not like the home depot paint I'm using.
Karmafish said:
I just looked at the data sheet for your paint. I'm pretty sure it's not playing well with fiberglass. Since this might be a little delicate, I'll let the pros take it from here.
Click to expand...
 
I've had problems with hardware store paint recently. I don't know if it's old or being exposed to extreme temps or what. I recently used some Krylon satin on an aluminum hilt and it never cured. Stuck to the stand, even. Total nightmare since it was over a stenciled weathering paint job. I managed to lock it down with some 2K matte after removing the goo with a tooth pick. All that because I didn't want to waste an entire can of good clear on one hilt. Never again!

If no one chimes in here's my suggestion. Baking soda, soap and water finished with a wipe of laquer thinner. That should neutralize the xylene. You'll probably need to prime it one more time. Then your duplicolor should be fine. Again, I'd prefer an expert to chime in but I don't want anything eating away at your helmet, either.
 
Wow...this is awesome...thank you so much. Especially for the cleaning tip. I really should have stuck with the Duplicolor. I guess the plastic Rubies Supreme didn't mind the Xylene. Oh well...lesson learned. I will give it a thourough clean and try it again with the correct paint. In the future, unless I'm painting a plastic lawn chair...I'm staying away from the Home Depot paint. Thanks again! Thank all you guys. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help.
Nick

Karmafish said:
I've had problems with hardware store paint recently. I don't know if it's old or being exposed to extreme temps or what. I recently used some Krylon satin on an aluminum hilt and it never cured. Stuck to the stand, even. Total nightmare since it was over a stenciled weathering paint job. I managed to lock it down with some 2K matte after removing the goo with a tooth pick. All that because I didn't want to waste an entire can of good clear on one hilt. Never again!

If no one chimes in here's my suggestion. Baking soda, soap and water finished with a wipe of laquer thinner. That should neutralize the xylene. You'll probably need to prime it one more time. Then your duplicolor should be fine. Again, I'd prefer an expert to chime in but I don't want anything eating away at your helmet, either.
Click to expand...
 
Nick Anzalone said:
Wow...this is awesome...thank you so much. Especially for the cleaning tip. I really should have stuck with the Duplicolor. I guess the plastic Rubies Supreme didn't mind the Xylene. Oh well...lesson learned. I will give it a thourough clean and try it again with the correct paint. In the future, unless I'm painting a plastic lawn chair...I'm staying away from the Home Depot paint. Thanks again! Thank all you guys. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help.
Nick
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Happy to help. Just be warned, it will be messy. You can start with the laquer thinner first, too. Either way, it will most likely roll up into nasty goo balls. Have lots of rags handy. Scotch brite helps but don't ruin all of sanding. Show us how it turns out.
 
It sounds like a primer issue to me. I am pretty sure you need to use marine or auto body grade primer when it comes to fiberglass. Yes any primer will coat well however masking will become the issues because your pulling the paint.
 
Yea...I went and got some auto paint and self etching primer. I never should have tried to use the cheap stuff. Live and learn. I'm glad the helmet is not perm damaged. I started sanding it down again today.
kevin926 said:
It sounds like a primer issue to me. I am pretty sure you need to use marine or auto body grade primer when it comes to fiberglass. Yes any primer will coat well however masking will become the issues because your pulling the paint.
Click to expand...
 
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