ANH Obi Wan LIghtsaber with Crystal Chamber ( Modifications ect..)

I finished mine last month I just haven't had the chance to get pics up.A bit of milling was required to get everything to fit. Anyhow, I've wired my saber with a Nano V3 and a Blue Blue LED. I dont care for the clash on flash feature so I left the 3rd die unwired. The board, battery, and speaker are kept in place by a series of laser cut acrylic disks I desdigned. The recharge port is in the booster section and the SD card can be accessed by unscrewing the booster.
20161028_001915.jpg20161027_154002.jpg
 
I finished mine last month I just haven't had the chance to get pics up.A bit of milling was required to get everything to fit. Anyhow, I've wired my saber with a Nano V3 and a Blue Blue LED. I dont care for the clash on flash feature so I left the 3rd die unwired. The board, battery, and speaker are kept in place by a series of laser cut acrylic disks I desdigned. The recharge port is in the booster section and the SD card can be accessed by unscrewing the booster.
View attachment 686842View attachment 686843

beautiful!! you know i was going to ask, how you held everything in place but you described it in full detail :thumbsup is your speaker being held with the same acrylic chassis?
 
I'm looking forward to getting my weathered fx kit from Roman very soon, is there any UK chassis builders here in the rpf? I would love to put some electronics in it but not sure where to start! There's so much out there for graflex but I cant find a lot of options for this amazing saber!

if any one has any ideas please shoot me a PM, be great to hear from you
 
Hey biggs79, the Nano Biscotte v3.0 will fit in either end of the Roman's FX kit. I've been going 'round and 'round in my head on which soundcard to choose myself. The Prizm v4.0 will fit in the front (but then you loose room for your crystal chamber) and in the center section beneath the clamp, and maybe the booster end. The problem there is squeaking it through the hole in the bottom side of the center section (where it connects to the booster, it's 0.5 - 1.? mm too small vs. the width of the Prizm and the Crystal Focus v8). That being said, I haven't had any of the soundcards in hand yet to see if they'll fit (can't decide on the Crystal Focus v8 for Tri-Cree or for LED String). I figure that a small groove could be filed out of that section on either side to help the soundcard pass through that section, or an overall sanding / milling of that section to make it that fraction larger to allow the card to pass through it without weakening the threads. Lethal Crystal aka Watchmaker Lam, says on his Facebook page that he put a CFv8-LS into his Roman's FX kit back in 2014. But he has a machine shop and some wicked skills with a lathe that would allow him to get'er done! slothfurnace used one too, but he made a new center section beneath the clamp and a really inspired end piece beneath the hole cap on the pommel. And there again, dude has MAD SKILLS!!!

Thanks to Spheric Thor for the heads-up on soundcard vs speaker proximity!
 
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Anytime slothfurnace, your lightsaber builds are amazing. I think there's something to having a black leather couch, you and Watchmaker Lam both have one, and at least one other builder has one too. Maybe if I get one my skills we be complete?

Any ideas on how to use a CFv8-LS with a LED String Blade and wire it in such a manner as to have a swapable Tri-Cree option too? I'd like to have my saber and a crazy bright flashlight too! ;)

Oh, I found this on Lethal Crystal / Watchmaker Lam's site today, if you haven't seen it already, I thought this was the coolest sabersmithing tool ever...

LIGHTSABER - TOOL - LED BENDER PLIERS - FROM LETHAL CRYSTAL - aka Watchmaker Lam - 03.jpg

He states that his mentor made it for him. It's a set of flat nosed pliers with a 5mm hole drilled through it and the sides filed at the proper width to bend the arms back down towards the next LED. He has another rig for bending the buddy arms. I've been working on a drawing that will incorporate his pliers and a different filing that will allow the bending of the buddy arms on the pliers jig too!
 
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Yes, you'd have to embed the LED module and heat sink along with the plug into the blade itself, hopefully using up no more real estate than the blade socket is deep.

Kind of like this:

096.jpg


If you want to use both a LED string and a Tri Cree, you'll need a 13 pin connector. 7 pins of which will be used as anode and six cathodes of the LED string, 6 pins being used for the TRI Cree.

Like this, but with one more connection:

006.jpg
 
THANK YOU FOR THAT!

O.K. so, .... those are big. I'll need another windvane assembly, another balance pipe, I can separate the crystal chamber from the grenade body / detatching it from the connector, screw off the emitter assembly, grab the alternate LED configuration, screw it onto the grenade body, re-insert the crystal chamber attaching it to the other end of that assembly's 13-pin DIN connector, close the clamp, ignite it.

Expensive, but it'll work. Now, how to wire it all to the CF-LSv6.5?

You'd have to have a profile (or 4) specifically for each type of LED configuration.
WAV files that tell you which profile configuration you were in would help so that you don't actually IGNITE your LEDs. ;)

Wait, if I had to use 13 pins, I'd have to have a second male connector wired up inside the hilt. There's not enough space in there then. Shoot. Or no, I wouldn't need a 2nd male because though the pins would be wired to the board, they wouldn't be in use at the same time.

But then, couldn't you simply use a 7-pin connector and on the Tri-Cree side wire up as 1 pin for (-) , #2-3 for 1 blue, #3-4 for 2nd blue, #5-6 for FOC White? The profile settings would control power and timing, and the appropriate resistors could be fit within hollow of the windvane assembly on the Tri-Cree LED configuration.

Or, could you just have the power settings remain the same (set up for the LED-String) and control power for the Tri-Cree configuration through resistors?

Even if the profile was for the LED-String and you activated the saber with the Tri-Cree configuration attatched, it would only be a fraction of a second before the 2nd blue LED turned on and both would be safe if properly resistored.

O.K. I'm starting to confuse myself. Off to watch some Playoff Football for a bit and skim through the CF-LSv6.5 manual.
 
i am a visual learner so i threw this together to try and help others understand how to convert a static Romans Obi wan to except Spirits crystal chamber, very easy to do!

I dont know if this is the right place to post this but i converted my static romans to except this crystal chamber. i had to get

1) booster washer (go to hardware store with booster and try and find one that fits snug, i had no problem finding one)
1) 3/8-16 x2" bolt
1) 3/8-16 x2-1/4" bolt

take it all apart, and gather your pieces
8layT9R.jpg


grab you washers and bore them out to except the 2 bolts

nYDWXTT.jpg


before boring on left, after boring on right
bAeHJvq.jpg


slide 2" bolt into washer, and insert into booster
SS9uEXW.jpg


here it is sticking out, just enough. i thought the bolt was going to be too long, i bought more washers to space the bolt inside the booster. but in the end all i needed was 1 washer. the 2" bolt sticks out just enough thread to grab the sink knob.
KLHnvGQ.jpg


heres what it looks like bolted to the sink knob
A83B7FX.jpg


now the emitter, separate the emitter
7sR9xH0.jpg


grab the 2-1/4" long bolt, and put that up the wind vane
KCH56s7.jpg


it was a snug fit at the neck of the bolt, it wouldnt fit all the way up, so i threw the bolt in the drill, spun it while applying 150grit sand paper. this took maybe 30 seconds before it could fit, very easy
UB7DhEP.jpg


perfect fit now
eR1qpFK.jpg


all together ready to strip it all apart now and weather the heck out of this thing!
kZV8iaB.jpg


here is a little video i made of the chamber

special thank you to Spirit of OB1 for making this happen! this is a awesome piece!!!

UPDATE: i have received a few PM's about this post so i figured i would update it with all the new links hosted by IMGUR, may photo bucket burn in hell. Anyway, i updated all my pictures, but for the guys who were on the early runs with the electronics it seems that Rudy has lost his picture of the wiring diagram. thanks to photo bucket again... so digging through my old hard drive i found the picture i used to wire it up.

PaU5HsV.jpg


Hope this helps!!



8layT9R.jpg


nYDWXTT.jpg


bAeHJvq.jpg


SS9uEXW.jpg


KLHnvGQ.jpg


A83B7FX.jpg


7sR9xH0.jpg


KCH56s7.jpg


UB7DhEP.jpg


eR1qpFK.jpg


kZV8iaB.jpg


PaU5HsV.jpg
 
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Hey Guys,

I just made myself laugh with the ridiculousness of where I obtained the part... and how easy it was to spring load my crystal reveal chamber... It really does make a huge difference in the function of the chamber / reveal.

Here's the how to :
 
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The newer runs have threaded holes for the transistors. The 1st runs need a bit of work. For the rear transistor, I jb welded a nut to the inside of the clamp and just screwed the transistor in. For the front end transistor, i took the same type of nut I used for the rear transistor, and ground it way down so it fits in the slot on the adapter piece then Jb welded the nut to the adapter.
 
Yes. Mine is from the second run, and the transistors will screw into holes in the clamp spacer. The threads on the transistor closest to the emitter needs to be a little shorter. Didn't take too long to cut them down.
 
holy crap!

Very punny! If there isn't enough 'load' in there with one spring, you could put a second spring in there... and say you 'dropped a deuce' in it. Sorry, that's bad. Punny, but bad. ;)

We now return you to your regularly scheduled constructive brainstorming.... I'm not sure which would be cheaper, a TP roll holder or just the spring, but I've seen similar springs in the little pull out/flip top bins at old fashioned hardware stores. Not too sure if Home Depot and Lowes would have them, but it's another place to look and compare prices, availablity, spring strength, etc.!
 
Very punny! If there isn't enough 'load' in there with one spring, you could put a second spring in there... and say you 'dropped a deuce' in it. Sorry, that's bad. Punny, but bad. ;)

We now return you to your regularly scheduled constructive brainstorming.... I'm not sure which would be cheaper, a TP roll holder or just the spring, but I've seen similar springs in the little pull out/flip top bins at old fashioned hardware stores. Not too sure if Home Depot and Lowes would have them, but it's another place to look and compare prices, availablity, spring strength, etc.!


They're only $1.33 at Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1vZ12kx/Ntk-All/Ntt-toilet+paper+roller?Ntx=mode+matchall&NCNI-5
 
Hey shpider ! Did you happen to measure your TP Spring before you installed it? Just curious about the overall length, compressed length and strength of the spring.

I picked two springs up from one of the local hardware stores for $0.98 and $0.79 to play around with. They had a whole bunch of different lengths, diameters, tensions!

The $0.98 one is 3-1/4" long, compresses to 1-1/2" long (nearly lost an eye figuring that measurement out), 3/4" in diameter, and is quite... enthusiastic about not being compressed with only two fingers!

The $0.79 one is 2-7/8" long, compresses to 5/8" long, 13/16" in diameter, and is much less of a workout and way more fun to just squish between your fingers.
 
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i went to the hardware store today on my way home. 10.79 for the toilet paper holder... yikes. im going to hit the dollar store this weekend see what i can find. when ever i remodel a bathroom ill be sure to start collecting springs.

before i went to the hardware store, i went to the other side of the job site and talked to the plumbers. their hose on the super sucker broke, and i remember there being a huge spring on the end of it. brought that sucker home but the spring is too big of a radius... sticking to the TP holder spring. just need to find a cheap one
 
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