Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial (Master Thread)

Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

I’ve seen the video on painting the stencil and the browns for the thin neck but haven’t found one for the rungs. Can’t spot it on the first page or your channel I’m afraid.

I talk about it in the video I did explaining trents, I actually have a few more videos to upload but it takes so much damn time..

I use these tamiya weathering master kits. I bought ever single one they had, but honestly only use 2 of them out of all of them

The others have metallic in them, but their orange, black, grey, and green is what I use.

TAMIYA Weathering Master 6-Sets(A,B,C,D,E,F) [Japan Import] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M66FM86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DFBYBb5Q92C93

Then I use q-tips and pull them through the rings, cleaning the edge of the rings, and leaving the tamiya inside the groove

Then get a damp paper towel. Clean the outside of the rings, then do a very light spray of unscented hair spray. And blow trooper bay Grey fullers earth on the rings.

And then with the damp towel clean the ring section again.

Once the rings are clean. I do one more light coat of hair spray and done

I should mention, while I’m doing this I take photos the whole time with the flash on

It’s tough because we arent supposed to see this dirt standing out all the time, you want to see it only with the flash on

So use your camera to determine when you have enough tamiya and earth in the rings

People think this is easy and just slap it in there.. but it’s a “process”

Honestly out of this whole V2 build, this is the hardest part for me because it is the most time consuming...

I’ll weed stencils all day, weathering the rings is the biggest PITA..

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Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

Dude you are way too patient. lol
not only did you spend countless hours (and continue to) making up this awesome tutorials, but every time someone asks the same question over and over because they can't even be bothered to read the tutorials and watch the videos, you just patiently answer them again and again.
You're too nice haha!
 
Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

Thank you that's great feedback. It was a pain when I tried it on the KR Sabers v2 and came out too dark so will pick up this kit. You are doing all this after it is lacquered I take it?
 
Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

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Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

Updates: 10/19/18

- Edited text in posts #1,2,3,4 Now all my tutorial text scheme matches
- Edited Main post to refer to this as the "master thread" for physical damage, painting and weathering​
 
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Re: Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial

A bit late to the game; just started my V2 and wanted to see if there's some trick to getting the D-ring on. Tried prying it apart and squeezing it back together and ended up trashing one already.

Another member shared the easiest way to do d-rings WITHOUT having to cut them or otherwise damage them: chain link pliers.

A HUGE improvement in the D-ring process.

5B877B48-5E77-407B-B0FC-57AFA17F16FC.jpeg

I am installing flawless D-rings in under 10 minutes with these.
 
So... has anybody actually installed one of these things? I was so hyped to find out that this was an FX offering from AS... only to find out nobody supported the hilt with a chassis solution. Jordan Eugene seems to think that an MB metal master might fit inside. Can anybody with this V2 and a MB mm confirm that? I’d really like to install mine!
 
So... has anybody actually installed one of these things? I was so hyped to find out that this was an FX offering from AS... only to find out nobody supported the hilt with a chassis solution. Jordan Eugene seems to think that an MB metal master might fit inside. Can anybody with this V2 and a MB mm confirm that? I’d really like to install mine!
I don't have one so I can't check, but based on measurements I've taken, the Rudy Pando V3 chassis by Goth 3Designs should fit this
 
I initially tried BC aluminum black to crate some patina, but it was slow going. The dishwasher trick works MUCH better. Although, oddly, the booster section—of all things—seems to be having the most trouble darkening. I’ll have to give it a few more dishwasher treatments, then start fine-tuning the tones via buffing with Scotch Brite and 0000 steel wool.

Now, I’m just thinking about how to bring down the shine on Roman’s clamp to make it look less brand-new.
 
20181020_162825_resized.jpg

I’ve had great success with BC Aluminum black, this was my first one (on reflection I should have cleaned up the pommel a bit more to make it a bit lighter). I wire wool the hilt first, then wash in hot soapy water, degrease with a strong spray for a few minutes and then wash again in hot soapy water. I then heat the pieces, then following this A14 guide (which is amazing btw!) dip in the AB solution for 3 – 10 seconds (don’t be afraid to leave in 10 seconds J), leave to stand for 5 mins so the chemicals can work their magic, then I dry with heat so it’s almost a powder on the outside of the hilt and then wire wool off, repeat 2 more times. My first ever go with AB I didn’t use a degreaser so the aluminum wasn’t properly prepped for the chemical and had little to no effect. My 2 cents/2p lol :)


I initially tried BC aluminum black to crate some patina, but it was slow going. The dishwasher trick works MUCH better. Although, oddly, the booster section—of all things—seems to be having the most trouble darkening. I’ll have to give it a few more dishwasher treatments, then start fine-tuning the tones via buffing with Scotch Brite and 0000 steel wool.

Now, I’m just thinking about how to bring down the shine on Roman’s clamp to make it look less brand-new.

20181020_162825_resized.jpg
 
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Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial (Master Thread)

Setting up the acid dipping station, (ventilation system now that the cold weather is here and I keep the doors and windows shut) and safety equipment.. is the hardest and most time consuming part

It’s always easier going from dark to light

Just keep randomly hitting it with 0000 steel wool until you get the color level you want

I was in the shed all day yesterday acid dipping 7am to 9pm... 8 bags of steel wool

After neutralizing with water dry it real good, seems like once the wool gets wet it’s over..


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So a little word of advice for everyone.

Firstly don't work on your saber on a sick day, your increasing your likely hood of making mistakes.

And second always remember to use distilled water. To avoid gettinh splotches when you darken the aluminum.

I did all of the above, and I'm kicking my self over here....
 
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Post pictures, I like the different levels in the patina, it gives it a more realistic look, and even on the real prop it looks like there is different shading in the patina


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I always heat the pieces with a hot air gun and then slosh the bc alum black on multiple times. Will turn it pitch black pretty quickly. A green scotchbrite pad will knock the black down to a good patina.
 

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