Blade Runner 2049 Memory Orb Build
- Thread starter Empiricus
- Start date
fightercaptured
Well-Known Member
Damn...just damn. Great work!
I think some one mentioned to me that automotive primer paint is better than hobby primer paint... it goes on thicker so put on some thick coats where you can and then wet and dry back to hide layer lines... Im going to be doing a lot of that soon as well...
This is maybe my fav prop from the film...
I think when adam savage went to see the props he was told it was also one of the single most expensive prop made, as it used real lens elements for the twisty turny parts....
This is maybe my fav prop from the film...
I think when adam savage went to see the props he was told it was also one of the single most expensive prop made, as it used real lens elements for the twisty turny parts....
I forgot, the layer lines are not a problem if you wet sand PETG with 220 and than 400 grid. The primer will just help with a few areas that still remain imperfect. I prefer to build up the foundation with thin layers of primer as 3D prints may have some details that are not as crisp as they could be (corners). I will sand with 1000 grid before final paint. I could always print slower for better detail, but this already takes almost a week to print. On this model I also don't want to obscure the gradation or labeling too much. Many print with PLA as it is easy and fast to print, but I find it too hard, brittle and annoying to work with. ABS is nicer to work with, but the shrinkage corrupts dimensional accuracy required here and often leads to layer breaks in more solid models even if you print in a heated enclosure.
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Epic build my man!
Put Molotov Liquid Chrome onto the shiny parts. It is very nice and self leveling too. Did not dilute. Foundation was Rustoleum flat gray primer, 400 wet sanded, Alclad Black primer and microfiller, 1000 grid wet sanded, Alcald Gloss Black base. Now I hope that sealing it with Alclad Clear Gloss will indeed work and preserve the shine. Someone recommended 2 component automotive urethane sealer. Does anyone has experience with that?
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb
Testing the Alclad metal paints on the wheels. This will take many revisions. First time using these. Also scared to use any of the Alclad clear and semi mate Kotes weird things seems to happen in combination. From left to right: Magnesium, Airframe Al Dark Al, Polished Al, White AL. On the endcaps Dark Al looks nice. Wonder if I need to clear coat these? The Alclad paints are very thin and diluted. Many layers required. The Airframe Al and polished Al are very sensitive as well and rub off easily. Pretty much set with Magnesium, White Al and Dark Al. Airframe and polished seemed to shiny for anodized Al. will try mixing and layering.
Testing the Alclad metal paints on the wheels. This will take many revisions. First time using these. Also scared to use any of the Alclad clear and semi mate Kotes weird things seems to happen in combination. From left to right: Magnesium, Airframe Al Dark Al, Polished Al, White AL. On the endcaps Dark Al looks nice. Wonder if I need to clear coat these? The Alclad paints are very thin and diluted. Many layers required. The Airframe Al and polished Al are very sensitive as well and rub off easily. Pretty much set with Magnesium, White Al and Dark Al. Airframe and polished seemed to shiny for anodized Al. will try mixing and layering.
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I think I will use this paint scheme. The Alclad paints represent Al much better but I need a more anodized look for that I used the Vallejo Metal paints. From left to right Montana mouse grey, Molotov chrome, Vallejo Magnesium, Duraluminum, Alclad Dark Al, Alclad White Al, Vallejo Aluminum. Thanks to Adam Savage for highlighting the method for stabilizing the Molotov chrome with the Alclad Gloss Klear Kote ALC 310. Works brilliantly. I dried the Molotov at 114F for 6 hour in a food dryer and then applied a thin coat.
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fightercaptured
Well-Known Member
Just outstanding work on this [emoji3]
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Thanks for sure. It has been a learning experience. Still revising the paint job. Molotov is even coated not suitable for parts that get touched a lot. So I am redoing some parts.
Thanks. Do you know that there are a number of Voight-Kampff machine and retina scanner original production copies from Bladerunner for sale at the Prop Store ?
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Thanks. Do you know that there are a number of Voight-Kampff machine and retina scanner original production design copies from Bladerunner for sale at the Prop Store ?
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More detail painting. These small ticks are more difficult then I thought. Need to get a Vinyl cutter. In lieu of one I printed I a guide in PETG 0.5mm thick and cut the mask from blue tape. I used Alclad Gloss black base as for some reason Vallejo Acrilic black wouldn't stick well to the Acrylic Vallejo Aluminium but fantastically to the tape.....
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