Studio Scale (:p) AT-AT

Interesting. What I found curious is that the one they used for reference material (left), for the MR model, has the same weather markings on the main body.
 

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Yep, that's the same walker in both photos! Only, the guys from Master Replicas broke the neck off the one in your left photo thinking it was a screen-used model (not a casting) with an armature so it had to be replaced. The neck that was replaced (right image) is a lot longer than the originals and was probably custom-made as there doesn't seem to be an original master mold available, especially after Duncanator shared that he had to mill a new one.

As meticulous as the LFL archivists are, one would think they'd have a handle on all the original AT-AT molds and masters and would've provided Martin and John with what they needed, if it was on-hand.
 
Pretty sure only two are right now. The Jedi AT-AT has been sitting in a display case in George's library for a while though, it's not in much condition for display. They need to call Martin and John back to work some magic on it!

Here's what it looks like:
(note the wires running into the head for the search lights)
rotj_disp.jpg
 
Wow! Impressive. I hope I'm not offending anyone with my silly-a** questions. My access to information on one of my favorite subject matters is limited, so I'm trying gather as much as I can. :)
 
Enjoy the banter. Only, I fear I'll end up sounding like a stuffy know-it-all if I give the impression I always have an answer (I don't, trust me).

It's just passion for the subject-matter causing me to run at the mouth,
I swear!
 
.......:lol I probably have more questions, but I'll save them for a later time. I don't want you to get black-ball for being a know-it-all when you're in the mist of such important project . :D
 
there is one more at the ranch but it's in really bad shape with some of the resin rotting and the neck is in even worse shape than the one we restored. I hope it gets worked on at some point but it would be a big undertaking.
 
I've never noticed the pipe details under the head before . Are you making a specific model ? I really like them , maybe I should add them to mine ?
Can I ask , are the flak parts on the sides of the harrier engine on both sides ? Or just the side shown on your picture it's hard to make it out on the reference I can find


http://www.therpf.com/f11/atat-w-i-p-107841/
 
I think the gaps are supposed to be open through. Take a look at the pictures in my post #327. The neck rings are lying on the base in the second photo.

Here you go John :p



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studio-scale-p-neckprog.jpg-310100d1397169876t
by Dragnink

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studio-scale-p-imageuploadedbytapatalk1395910219.979918.jpg-303312d1395910225t
by Flixen

= We're almost done with the neck !




I've never noticed the pipe details under the head before . Are you making a specific model ? I really like them , maybe I should add them to mine ?
Can I ask , are the flak parts on the sides of the harrier engine on both sides ? Or just the side shown on your picture it's hard to make it out on the reference I can find


http://www.therpf.com/f11/atat-w-i-p-107841/

Jon,
The 3 screen-used models had these parts. Actually, the casting of the MR set is missing several parts.

Regarding the flak parts... yes and no ! It all depends of the model you are recreating. AT least one (on which the AT-AT is made from) has a flakvierling part on each side (trimmed differently though). I let one side blank on my master because there was a different part here on the other AT-AT's. :)
 
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So much great information! I love all the questions, and I love all the answers from people who have had their hands on the original models. And of course there is the impressive work and progress on the beautiful parts. This thread is awesome!

Quick question: what's the plan for the neck? How are you going to make it flexible? Will it be a rubber casting like the original? Silicone perhaps?
 
This is coming along beautifully! Tox, I see what you mean - the neck rings look great!

The original neck tubes were a self skinning latex foam (schram?). They were very flexible, but they won't last long.
You may have to do some research in order to find another product.
 
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Hi Dave, yes! We've opted for a flexible polyurethane with a low enough shore hardness to accomodate some aggressive (well, not too aggressive) posing of the neck. I'd be afraid silicone might tear eventually and the foam latex, while used on the originals didn't have the greatest lifespan as evidenced by how much they deteriorated over the years.


I'm considering adding a smaller hole below the main neck cavity for wire leads running into the cockpit to allow it to be lighted from the inside. The red glow inside the viewport always looked kind of menacing and would be a fun feature to include. That would probably work better than having the wire running parallel to the hinge joints in the same space. For the search lights on the Jedi version, two holes can be drilled down through the floor of the cockpit and glued to the blaster-barrel housings, which shouldn't interfere with the recoil animation of the barrels.
 
The 3 screen-used models had these parts. Actually, the casting of the MR set is missing several parts.

Regarding the flak parts... yes and no ! It all depends of the model you are recreating. AT least one (on which the AT-AT is made from) has a flakvierling part on each side (trimmed differently though). I let one side blank on my master because there was a different part here on the other AT-AT's.

Thanks for letting me know....if it's ok ill use your pictures as reference and get busy on the lathe !!!!
 
Just in case it helps you guys with the neck mold, here is a couple of pics of how i did the neck mold on the double studio scale one. I'm sure you guys have something in mind but I had to go thru a couple of incarnations before i got something to work reliably. Basically a 3 part mold, core is a plastruct tube reinforced with abs, the lower mold holds the inner tube in the correct location, 3d part of the mold is the outer details. It works well because you can pour the PU rubber in and pressure cast it, which i think it needs with all the detail. Wax up the inner core so it pulls out cleanly, then you can kind of fold the cured neck in on itself to avoid damage to the mold.

Looking forward to seeing the progress on the neck...
mike

001_zps0342c68c.jpg

004_zpsd4b9ae7d.jpg
 
The neck ring parts looking great!!!

Thanks Felix ! I need to send you some dimensions !

The 3 screen-used models had these parts. Actually, the casting of the MR set is missing several parts.

Regarding the flak parts... yes and no ! It all depends of the model you are recreating. AT least one (on which the AT-AT is made from) has a flakvierling part on each side (trimmed differently though). I let one side blank on my master because there was a different part here on the other AT-AT's.

Thanks for letting me know....if it's ok ill use your pictures as reference and get busy on the lathe !!!!


Sure Jon ! However Im not sure why you need a lathe ? You probably have the parts, it's from the Leopold ?

Just in case it helps you guys with the neck mold, here is a couple of pics of how i did the neck mold on the double studio scale one. I'm sure you guys have something in mind but I had to go thru a couple of incarnations before i got something to work reliably. Basically a 3 part mold, core is a plastruct tube reinforced with abs, the lower mold holds the inner tube in the correct location, 3d part of the mold is the outer details. It works well because you can pour the PU rubber in and pressure cast it, which i think it needs with all the detail. Wax up the inner core so it pulls out cleanly, then you can kind of fold the cured neck in on itself to avoid damage to the mold.

Looking forward to seeing the progress on the neck...
mike

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v501/modelguy/001_zps0342c68c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v501/modelguy/004_zpsd4b9ae7d.jpg

Thanks Mike ! Very helpful, yeah it needs to be pressure cast (Felix that one is for you ? :p Im going to send you some necklace parts).
Mike, how soft is the PU you used ? Do you have any pics of vid showing how much you can fold it ?

Seing your mold, I'm affraid the walls or thickness is too thin and you dont get a nice curve when you move the head ? All scale related, the thickness of your neck looks to be the same than ours that's why I'm wondering that ? Have you experimented that ? I mean when you try to curve too much a water hose for example, it becomes more flat on two sides ? It wouldnt happen if it was thicker or if the PU is very soft and elastic, but I have no idea since I never used that kind of PU ! That's something Im wondering for times now, it would probably not happen with a latex foam neck. Very curious about your experience on that !
 
In the scale that i worked in too thick meant no flexibility at all. I used Reoflex 40 from smooth on, 40 hardness. Tried 20 hardness first and it just collapsed in on itself. Here is how mine stands now, a small amount of distortion but has some flex. I did make a couple of relief cuts in the rubber that are hidden under the neck guards, last pic shown with the upper neck guard removed to show the flex. Another bit of advice that i found is to dye the neck black and use custom mixed oil paints (matched to your spray paint), no spray paint, including ones intended to be flexible wanted to stick to it well without flaking. but oils stick to it very nicely and remain soft and flexible.

006_zps1a406bd5.jpg

008_zps13fabd20.jpg
 
Thanks Mike, very informative ! I did not now it was that soft. :)
Maybe the 20 hardness could work for a neck that 1/2 the size of yours ? That's something to try !

Thanks for the oil paint advice, I was just going to mist acrylic on the black dyed neck but that sounds to be a better solution !



In the scale that i worked in too thick meant no flexibility at all. I used Reoflex 40 from smooth on, 40 hardness. Tried 20 hardness first and it just collapsed in on itself. Here is how mine stands now, a small amount of distortion but has some flex. I did make a couple of relief cuts in the rubber that are hidden under the neck guards, last pic shown with the upper neck guard removed to show the flex. Another bit of advice that i found is to dye the neck black and use custom mixed oil paints (matched to your spray paint), no spray paint, including ones intended to be flexible wanted to stick to it well without flaking. but oils stick to it very nicely and remain soft and flexible.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v501/modelguy/006_zps1a406bd5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v501/modelguy/008_zps13fabd20.jpg
 
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