Gold Leader 2017 kit alert (and instructions)

Gus over at www.Falcon3dparts.com is working on a rebel pilot figure to replace the default filming miniature for those interested. Here are some pics of his 3D printed prototype that I trimmed to fit the model. I believe the finished figure he will be selling in his store will be modified to match my trimming. I also filed a little off the lower back of the cockpit seat to make room for the new pilot. The figure does not come with a visor but that can be made with clear plastic tinted yellow and glued into place.
bust.jpg
pilots.jpg
cockpit.jpg
 
I'd love to have a Y-Wing pilot too. Any idea if this one would fit in the MR Y-Wing?


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I sold my MR Y-Wing last year so I am not sure what would be involved. I too was disappointed that it did not come with a pilot. I believe it was also studio scale so the figure should work but may need additional trimming to fit properly. I would be afraid of taking the canopy off but if you are going to repaint the model (the MR paint job was NOT very good) you should be ok. If you haven't seen this already check out Gunpowder's MR Y-Wing repaint: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=27020
 
All Pm's should be responded too as of this morning, if you did not hear back for some reason please try again. Sorry i have been just totally swampped.
thanks
mike
 
For those that have ordered from plastruct , how many of the tb48 did you order ? as far as the wiring, did you order just one pack of each ? 90101,
90102, 90103, 90104, 90105 . Hopefully the instructions will be final soon or some people will put up detailed builds.


https://plastruct.com/shop/tubing-fittings/tb-28/


In addition, you will need to purchase 8
1/4” ABS TEE from Plastruct, code number T-8. It is easiest to order two of their 4-packs, catalog code #90086.
You will also need to puchase butyrate coated wire and butyrate tubing from Plastruct as well. I used the following catalog code tubes/wires: 90101,
90102, 90103, 90104, 90105. You also need Plastruct tube tb 48 for the thruster assemblies.
 
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Buy a couple of each in case you mess up. You can use the leftovers for other stuff. I am sorry but I did not keep track of how much I used. I literally have a Plastruct spinner store display I keep pretty well stocked (lol) so I just pulled from that... I *did* notate which ones went where, but not how many packs I went through. I will try to get back to the instructions soon, but this is an exceptionally busy time of year for me (pre-Comicon and Wonderfest), and I have paying work that has hard deadlines I need to wrap up...
 
Just wanted to post another option for the engine nozzles. I picked up this 3/4" diameter 4" riser today at my local hardware store in the sprinkler area. It works pretty good. It fits the heat sink perfect and you don't have to come up with spacers to hold it within the engine casing. I did have to sand the little lip inside of the casing so that it would fit, but worked out pretty nice. Sorry, I haven't sanded everything pretty yet.
20170328_102902.jpg20170328_103553.jpg20170328_104702.jpg20170328_104634.jpg
 
Defiantly interested in this kit. I'm and Electrical Engineer by trade and would be willing to work on some lighting electronics. I was thinking about a little board that would sit in one/both of the battery channels. Possibly an Arduino type board or a custom piece of hardware. I don't have the model yet so i can't judge the space great but adding it would prob require the use of an external DC supply/battery pack.

If anyone is interested in something there is obviously both engines and the cockpit to light, are there any other lighting zones people would want? Also what effects blinking, breathing, flickering? If there is interest I would prob work on it over the summer. If this is not the thread for this type of thing let me know.
 
For those that have ordered from plastruct , how many of the tb48 did you order ? as far as the wiring, did you order just one pack of each ? 90101,
90102, 90103, 90104, 90105 . Hopefully the instructions will be final soon or some people will put up detailed builds.


https://plastruct.com/shop/tubing-fittings/tb-28/


In addition, you will need to purchase 8
1/4” ABS TEE from Plastruct, code number T-8. It is easiest to order two of their 4-packs, catalog code #90086.
You will also need to puchase butyrate coated wire and butyrate tubing from Plastruct as well. I used the following catalog code tubes/wires: 90101,
90102, 90103, 90104, 90105. You also need Plastruct tube tb 48 for the thruster assemblies.

I ordered just 1 pack of each and this is what I got. LOTS of tubes!
tubes.jpg

tubes.jpg
 
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Just to clear this up, in my head, is it tb-28 or tb-48 you need, or is it both?

I know one is TB-28 but I do not know how many you need. I do not think I have seen tb-48. My brain is hurting :) Psimon, I think that looks like one of each should be plenty plus leftovers for other projects :) I assume they bend easily ?
 
I know one is TB-28 but I do not know how many you need. I do not think I have seen tb-48. My brain is hurting :) Psimon, I think that looks like one of each should be plenty plus leftovers for other projects :) I assume they bend easily ?

The engine mount is TB-28 (P-B-28 on my order sheet). It is very long, about 3 feet and you only need a few inches for the kit.
I have not tried to bend any of the wires yet as I don't want to waste any on tests until I get that part of the instructions. For the bigger rods and maybe the wired ones, I suspect some heat will be involved
 
As a kid I used a lot of the tube coated wire material on my SW kits. Bends super easy and stays where you bend it. It's kind of like vinyl coated wire, the coating on the stuff I used was very thin. I used pliers without grooves to bend them.

B
 
I sold my MR Y-Wing last year so I am not sure what would be involved. I too was disappointed that it did not come with a pilot. I believe it was also studio scale so the figure should work but may need additional trimming to fit properly. I would be afraid of taking the canopy off but if you are going to repaint the model (the MR paint job was NOT very good) you should be ok. If you haven't seen this already check out Gunpowder's MR Y-Wing repaint: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=27020

Thanks for the link. I don't think I'm going to delve into removing the canopy or repainting mine, but I was thinking about squeezing a pilot in there somehow if I could find one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Defiantly interested in this kit. I'm and Electrical Engineer by trade and would be willing to work on some lighting electronics. I was thinking about a little board that would sit in one/both of the battery channels. Possibly an Arduino type board or a custom piece of hardware. I don't have the model yet so i can't judge the space great but adding it would prob require the use of an external DC supply/battery pack.

If anyone is interested in something there is obviously both engines and the cockpit to light, are there any other lighting zones people would want? Also what effects blinking, breathing, flickering? If there is interest I would prob work on it over the summer. If this is not the thread for this type of thing let me know.


I for one would be interested in something like this which would be a turnkey type system as I know jack squat about lighting and electronics
and nor do I want to. I want something that would be able to install easily with maybe just having to connect a couple wires and that's it. Not sure about everyone else but these are the features i would be interested in:
1) Lite-up red engines that flicker slightly
2) Lite-up cockpit for readouts with a couple blinking lights
3) Battery contained on the ship (not external)
4) On/off switch on the ship (possibly the same type used on the original model under the cockpit) or remote control switch
5) Engine sounds (might be cool)

Of course the sooner something like this could be made available the better. Summer is a bit far off but probably could wait for something like this that long if it has these features and is easy to install.
 
Lighting isn't hard.
Buy the pre-wired LED's off of eBay. I use ones set up for 12VDC.
Power with a 120VAC to 12DC power source. Like a cell phone charger.

Connect in parallel, positive leads connected to positive leads, negative to negative.
You can even buy flickering LED's....hook them up the same way. Not rocket science.
If you choose, you can use a circuit board, but you don't have to.

No no real magic to it.
 
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