JFcustom's FOAM files

I looked all over and I couldn't find the Arkham Knight Batsuit chest piece. Does anyone have this chest piece template? Asking here in hope that someone does.
 
Not sure if there is one. I've seen a lot of requests and a lot of custom batsuit builds, but no templates :(

Who can I pay to make it? =]

Seriously though.. I would pay. I can't find this suit anywhere and you would think with its popularity it would be available.
 
Who can I pay to make it? =]

Seriously though.. I would pay. I can't find this suit anywhere and you would think with its popularity it would be available.

Try looking in tue junkyard section for someone offerng their skills or start a want to buy thread asking for someone
 
brandy & IM.jpg IMG_0389.JPGwell after almost a year off & on tinkering with different methods, I finally finished & wore proudly my Ironman Mk 4 EVA foam suit. MANY MANY thanks to all those here on the RPF for their knowledge & help in getting it from start to finish. Without all of you & your various projects, builds & pics I would have quit a long time ago. So, Thanks again, JFCustom for the videos, unfolding prowess, & willingness to share your knowledge! Also to the creators of Robo3687 & sharkhead7854 for the files!
Also, ended up making a Halo Mk6 suit for my 7 year old on the side.
john Halo.jpgHappy Halloween All !! Be Safe & Thanks Again!!
 
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Hypothetical question: would it be possible to replace the fibreglass/resin+ bondo process for a cardstock build by 3 PVA coats + XRobot's plastic coating method ?
Thank you all for your response and view on this alternative.
 
Hypothetical question: would it be possible to replace the fibreglass/resin+ bondo process for a cardstock build by 3 PVA coats + XRobot's plastic coating method ?
Thank you all for your response and view on this alternative.

Not having actually done it, I could only speculate.

The glue/plastic method wouldn't be as strong and sturdy as fiberglass, but is a good fume-free alternative.

I can see needing to coat the card stock inside and out, just because cosplay sweat would soften the glue and potentially make a bit of a sticky mess inside.

You would need to move a lot faster since fiberglass resin cures slower than 65D. This could be a pro or a con, needing to keep remixing plastic often, but also not waiting for the fiberglass resin's normal cure time.

Would still need to do the whole Bondo process.

Just a few thoughts about it. :)
 
The Smooth On 65D is sandable, so I don't know that you'd need to bondo over it - bondo is probably more easily sandable and would therefore be likely to give a better finish - I'm not 100% happy with the helmets I've made and coated in 65D, but mainly as I'm impatient & in 2 out of 3 cases didn't have the time, or a sander to get a good, quick, smooth finish. I really should invest in a mouse sander, or something...
 
I assume you don't mean bondo over plastic? I thought it was 'either,or' ?

You can use Bondo on plastic, you just have to scuff it up well for it to grip. Also, as people on here have found, Bondo on a flexible surface will crack. You can actually make it more flexible, and stick better by mixing it with a eurethane filler.

http://youtu.be/CWUf_SbNAag

This guy is a bit of an idiot for comedy, but you can skip to 6 minutes to see him use the method.

The eurethane filler is kinda expensive to use by itself, but it'll give the Bondo enough flex if you mix it.
 

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