Show your custom Lightsabers!

Was it a 2 cell? Thought i saw a 2 cell earlier. Why are these jumping in price?

Hey DARTH SABER, missed your question last night, stupid phone. Yes, and no. The one that sold for $51.00 + 14.46 shipping was a two cell but had some other odd flashes (Rangefinder Flash Units Models B-1, V, V3, III ) that I thought would make really neat proto-saber parts, two short 2-3" extension tubes, one 6-7" extention tube, 3 folding reflectors, 2 solid reflectors, 4 leather cases, and a Model Y instruction manual...

s-l1600.jpg



The one that sold for $129.50 + 8.00 shipping was also a two cell but had a 4-5" extension tube, a 6'-7" extension tube, a solid reflector (of unknown quaility in its gold cover), and a Model Y instruction manual...

s-l1600.jpg



As for why these are jumping in price, this last one was probably won by one of the guys who got outbid on the first aucition and weren't willing to come away empty handed this time. That last bid was a SUPERSNIPER bid that supresses automatic biding via 'beaucoup d'argent'! I would also hazard a guess that it's a bunch of Star Wars GEEKS trying to get there hands on 'em to turn them into super cool lightsabers like SethS, especially like SethS for that matter since he has a bagillion of them already and doesn't need anymore and really should let other geeks get them to make super cool lightsabers out of and make WHOOSH, WHOOSH, VROOM sounds with!!!!! :facepalm:lol Either that, or, it's a bunch of vintage camera enthusiats trying to prevent their beloved equiptment from being repurposed into lightsabers by a bunch of Star Wars geeks. I totally feel for the camera guys, it hurts me every time I drill a wee hole in a GRAFLEX to attach a D-ring, and my heart drops every time I see one cut up to make a Starkiller, or even something little like guys tearing off their red button retainer. I'm not saying that some of those lightsabers don't look amazing, I'm just saying that while part of me is smiling and thinking "COOL!!!", part of me is crying and thinking "NO!!! WHY?!"

Seriously though, it's everyone contributing to this thread who is making lightsaber hilts out of vintage camera flashes who are inspiring others to try and emulate their successes in having done so! Lightsabers made out of real world parts not only fit right in within the Star Wars Universe, they also seem to be more.... real.

Me personally, I simply like the Model X and Y clamps and the toggle wheel. I've been hoping to pick one up to see if I can connect the toggle wheel to a camera iris somehow and have the wheel open and close the iris! I emagine it to be a form of blade length/ strength adjuster / accidental activation preventer.

Anywho, see y'all on the eBay field of battle! .....From a mile away trying to snipe you that is. heeheeheeheeheehee
 
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I got my first Canon Y out of my box o' flashes from the 90s, so I paid mere cents for it. The second I got off eBay for $125 cause I REALLY wanted another. A day later I got one for $20 cause it was so cheap. More recently I spent $60 on a lot of a Y with a bunch of different extensions and a slave. Total steal and found it cause the seller spelled Canon wrong.

Totally! I have a shroud that looks kinda like a Busch shroud, but there needs to be something in between. I don't want to lose these swoops!

http://i.imgur.com/zDd0Oti.jpg?1

That's interesting! On my model that swoop was basically screwed on the top of the body, so it was easy to remove.

Since everyone said mine needs a shroud I put my unfinished Roy MPP shroud on it, and it looked decent... maybe a little too Vader-y... I haven't decided.


The Y is a two cell, isn't it? The X is the nickel plated 3 cell.

After I got a Y manual I realized that the X and Y are both built as a 2 cell, but Canon sold all manner of extensions, 3, 4, and 5 cell. Not sure why, but it seems like the X was sold with an extension to be a 3 cell.


Here's the latest.

That thing is awesome! I think I need to take apart some hard drives!
 
Try gluing the grips in place before you drill any holes in the body. Then use the predrilled holes in the grips to guide the bit. You can either tap the grips and holes together afterwards, or just drive rivets in. Unless you plan on disassembling the grips later on there's no reason not to glue them down.

I picked up some Ingersoll Rand channel off eBay and that's the approach I plan to take once I find a build for them.

Not sure how I could glue the channels down given their U shape?
 
Worked on my canon Y last night! I too have a two cell, so I'm fashioning a back end out of an old lamp I found.

Still not sure what to do about grips though... maybe just go classic T-track?

Can anyone point me where they are getting the metal tracks we see a lot on here?

Thanks!
 
You guys get my brain moving a 100 mph looking at all theses great ideas! I may have to build a couple more MPP clamps and get some vintage flashguns to add to my collection!
 
Worked on my canon Y last night! I too have a two cell, so I'm fashioning a back end out of an old lamp I found.

Still not sure what to do about grips though... maybe just go classic T-track?

Can anyone point me where they are getting the metal tracks we see a lot on here?

Thanks!

ost every hardware store or hobby shop has that rack of craft metal. Aluminum bars come in all sorts of lengths and widths and aren't too difficult to work with. If you only have hand tools though getting a hole centered perfectly in a small strip can be infuriating.
 
AnubisGuard

That looks really nice! For me, I think the break-up of the "zip-grips" makes it a bit too busy aesthetically but the overall construction of the piece looks solid!
 
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This is the second time I've seen somebody use a flange part from a wine stopper. Last person said they got theirs at CVS-- which I just happened to be at so I checked out the wine endcap. I didn't see one that fit the bill with flanges-- but I did spot this one that's obviously an emitter.

stopper.jpg


Also, I realized that before I get to the new sabers, I need to address my shame sabers.... the ones that need to be rethought, scrapped, or that I don't like.

shame.jpg


The three on the left are the last three I've made. Based on comments, I agree that 1 and 3 need some better shroud action. 2 has a giant knob people haaaaaaated. :)

As for the others...

4 is janky as hell with the grips. I love the clamp, but everything else is tired and meh. I'll refresh it.
5 is a Canon X with an improvised bottom. I now have a Canon extension I can put on there that will feel less scrappy.
6 has a lower half that I love and was really clever with-- but the upper part I got lazy with some TCSS parts that don't fit. I HATE this one. It's so bulky in the middle. Keeping the bottom, redoing the top.
7 is a c-cell, but I need to look back at what PoppaPalps did with his Kalart. All those o-rings are disintegrating and it's very meh.
8 is truly a scrap build that I WANTED to work out so bad that ultimate just feels pedestrian. I think it's just become parts again.
9 is a disaster. I paid too much for the Speedgraphic cause I had a vision for it-- and it just came off janky. Parts it will be.

Hopefully all the scrapped bits can be recombined to make new interesting things.
 
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I always liked 8 because of its simplicity but I thought the second control box and the paint was a bit too much for my liking. I also like 1 and, maybe not an emitter is needed, but maybe some sleeve or something like it.
 
Love the grips on number 2 and the obi emitter looks good on it. Never have been able to mix the obi style and graflex style and have something I like.
 
This is the second time I've seen somebody use a flange part from a wine stopper. Last person said they got theirs at CVS-- which I just happened to be at so I checked out the wine endcap. I didn't see one that fit the bill with flanges-- but I did spot this one that's obviously an emitter.

http://sethmsherwood.com//pretty/stopper.jpg

That does look really good!


I have a couple of 2 cell Heilands, one with an extension to make it three cell. One if just a hollow tube that was gutted. Does anyone think it would be worth putting them on eBay or not worth the money because one isn't complete?
 
Okay bullies--

Ya'lls thought my Presslite looked unfinished without a more prominent shroud...

press2.jpg


So I thought I'd try a few options, see what people like...

ShroudA.jpg


Here it is with a Heiland stubby-shroud.

ShroudB.jpg


A Busch shroud...

ShroudC.jpg


And my MPP 2.0 shroud.

My thing is, they all make it seem a little too Vader-y for me...I've used shrouds on lenty of other sabers-- but something about the metal and black of this seems too on the nose.

Also, I'm not covering those giant ports-- I like them. :)

What do you guys thing? It's already pretty long so building a thin-neck Obi-Wan or Luke Jedi style emitter would be too much.
 
If you're looking for something not Vadery, I'd say go with the Busch shroud. It's the least Vader like of the bunch. Though, personally I do like the MPP 2.0. Gives it a Barbican look.
 
Okay bullies--

Ya'lls thought my Presslite looked unfinished without a more prominent shroud...

http://sethmsherwood.com/pretty/press2.jpg

So I thought I'd try a few options, see what people like...

http://sethmsherwood.com/pretty/ShroudA.jpg

Here it is with a Heiland stubby-shroud.

http://sethmsherwood.com/pretty/ShroudB.jpg

A Busch shroud...

http://sethmsherwood.com/pretty/ShroudC.jpg

And my MPP 2.0 shroud.

My thing is, they all make it seem a little too Vader-y for me...I've used shrouds on lenty of other sabers-- but something about the metal and black of this seems too on the nose.

Also, I'm not covering those giant ports-- I like them. :)

What do you guys thing? It's already pretty long so building a thin-neck Obi-Wan or Luke Jedi style emitter would be too much.

Maybe I should've chimed in earlier, but I wanted to say that I loved it the way you had it, without the shroud. I think flashgun sabers work best when you keep them nice and simple. And I also agree that the shrouds make this one look too much like a Vader clone.
 

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