Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Leylander For spot putty check out this image by kenlandrum:
attachment.php


The spot putty isn't really liquid, it's more like a toothpaste consistency. It's easy to spread, the kind I have is ready to sand in about 30 minutes, and it doesn't go on too thick.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Thanks for that Bogleo. Isn't that quiet expensive? It looks like you need to use a fair bit for small parts.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Thanks for that @Bogleo. Isn't that quiet expensive? It looks like you need to use a fair bit for small parts.
Yeah it's kinda expensive, but one tube will go farther than you think. I did a whole helmet with one 4.5 ounce tube.

There's also a method of thinning bondo with fiberglass resin (rondo), which I personally haven't tried, but GhostMinion should be able to help you out.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Definitely go to Walmart and pick up a tube of 3M auto spot putty. Way way way easier to handle than bondo
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Before I begin, let me state that I like this thread! This thread reminds me why I need to visit the Marvel side more often. You'll have to forgive me, I've been off in "Fallout Land" for some time now...........


Thinned down bondo is nice. By that, I mean it's easy to use, and it's cheap. It is not for everyone, though. So far from what I've read here, sounds like the OP can handle some "rondo", though.

But, before I begin on that, consider XTC-3D. I recently did a Fallout prop that I modeled and printed, and the prints were really clean. I mean they were sharp guys. Now, bondo never touched those prints. I find that really clean prints are best smoothed in XTC 3D. It goes on thin, I even need to use two thin coats. It sands down really well. But most important, you CAN NEVER sand out the resin from in between the print grooves. I've actually sanded rondo treated parts, and some of the bondo will actually sand out of the grooves, causing you to need to reapply. This is impossible with the XTC, which is essentially epoxy resin (so yes, similar epoxy resins will work too) The stuff is cheap, and a bottle lasts F-O-R-E-V-E-R.

The downside to XTC is you can't use it in high detail areas unless you're really good with hand files. I am, so I use it. But others do not prefer to, and it would still be worth it to coat the areas without details and deal with high detail areas another way.


These days, I only use the rondo method for rougher prints. Pillowing, start point seam lines, gaps..........thing like that. I like to thin down the bondo because it's easier to spread and will wet out a little bit. It can be a pain to sand, at first. The first minute of sanding will gum your paper up. Just use an old toothbrush to clean your sand paper, or only use rough and used sand paper that you can just throw away. After the "gummy layer", it's smooth sailing from there. Stuff is hard, but it's easy to carve and use hand files in detailed areas.

To properly thin bondo (just in case you haven't before), just mix a half and half mixture of bondo and fiberglass resin. Use a respirator, this stuff is evil. I use the red cream hardener, not the hardener that comes with the fiberglass resin (you can use either, they are essentially the same thing) so that the red color will show, helping me get the mix even. Just use a double helping of the hardener cream, one dose for the bondo and one for the fiberglass resin. Brush on in thin layers, and doing so in a cooler place will slow the rondo from setting (direct sunlight will speed set time up). Clean your brush in acetone before the stuff begins to set, or it'll ruin your brush. Rinse and repeat.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Thanks for sharing this tip GhostMinion! I feel like the bondo is difficult to apply in thin layers, so this will help me out a lot.

I ordered some spray filler as well to apply first on the pieces. Just so the smaller grooves are filled. I'll be able to work on the problem areas more easily without overdoing it or throwing too much bondo on it. I'll post pictures of that progress when I get to it.

I looked at the XTC-3D, but I'm not sure if I will go that route. I'll check out the bondo first.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Thanks TKCC71. You mentioned in your topic that you print the shells seperate.

I always cut up the whole piece in square parts. Is it easier to print each shell seperate and connect them afterwards?
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Semi related question, I expect some shrink/warping on printed armor parts-but is anyone having issue with pieces fitting together for welding/gluing? Currently, printing in PLA, working on my chestpiece, and have separated most parts just fine, but my main chestpiece is too large so I have to slice it for printing. I print with supports & raft to insure minimal errors, but as I line up all the pieces - they don't all line up correctly. How much shrink/warping are you guys encountering with your prints?
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I had the same issues with some parts. I'm printing the lower back now and the pieces seem to fit very good.
The issues arise when there is a lot of detail and different shapes in the object (as with the chest f.e.)
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Semi related question, I expect some shrink/warping on printed armor parts-but is anyone having issue with pieces fitting together for welding/gluing? Currently, printing in PLA, working on my chestpiece, and have separated most parts just fine, but my main chestpiece is too large so I have to slice it for printing. I print with supports & raft to insure minimal errors, but as I line up all the pieces - they don't all line up correctly. How much shrink/warping are you guys encountering with your prints?

When I was working on mine, I used a soldering iron to melt the parts together, and used the support material as filler to melt into the parts that warped. You can also use a hairdryer to warm up the plastic and reshape is slightly, just be careful. If you dont have very much infill on the parts, you can collapse the inner layers if you overheat it and it will buckle. Im sure there is a better way to go about it, but that was my experience. Bondo becomes your friend for the parts that just dont line up as much as you'd like them to.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I decided to reprint the chest. I received updated files from do3d for the MK45 and they seem a lot smoother.

The chest I have now encountered some warping and makes it difficult to make it look good when post processing.

I am now in the process of printing the lower back. The sides are done and I will post a pic of that this evening. Then the backside will be printed.

It's possible that I will connect the abs and the lower back with stretch cords as it will be a very tight fit and I still want to be able to move a bit.You won't be able to see it that much.
 
Applied putty to the seams and filler primer. Need to apply spot putty now and give it another layer of primer. As you can see in the second picture, it is not smooth.
Hopefully sanding and priming again will solve this.
Photo 09-06-16 18 26 04.jpgPhoto 09-06-16 18 26 11.jpg

This is one side of the lower abs. The other side will be glued later today and the middle section is being printed.


Photo 09-06-16 18 26 37.jpg
 
Bad luck.. The abs and lower back don't fit me...

I'll have to rescale everything I printed so far and start over. The helmet is in the printer now, but as soon as that is finished, I will start again with the lower back.
If the new part fits, I'll be sure that the other parts will fit too.
 
Bad luck.. The abs and lower back don't fit me...

I'll have to rescale everything I printed so far and start over. The helmet is in the printer now, but as soon as that is finished, I will start again with the lower back.
If the new part fits, I'll be sure that the other parts will fit too.
Thats a bummer mate it can be frustrating when ya put all that print time in only for it not to fit... its only part of printing armour that gets tedeous

sent from samsung
 
Thats a bummer mate it can be frustrating when ya put all that print time in only for it not to fit... its only part of printing armour that gets tedeous

sent from samsung

It's an expensive learning curve, but we'll get over it. At least I know now how to go ahead. The updated files I received from do3d.com are scaled a little larger than what I had. So I think these will fit without having to rescale.

Once Armorsmith comes out hopefully this won't be a problem anymore.

Is that somekind of scaling software?
 
It's an expensive learning curve, but we'll get over it. At least I know now how to go ahead. The updated files I received from do3d.com are scaled a little larger than what I had. So I think these will fit without having to rescale.



Is that somekind of scaling software?

Ya if you look up armored garage on youtube, there will be a video on it.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I decided to reprint the chest. I received updated files from do3d for the MK45 and they seem a lot smoother.

The chest I have now encountered some warping and makes it difficult to make it look good when post processing.

I am now in the process of printing the lower back. The sides are done and I will post a pic of that this evening. Then the backside will be printed.

It's possible that I will connect the abs and the lower back with stretch cords as it will be a very tight fit and I still want to be able to move a bit.You won't be able to see it that much.

Just got my updated files. Dont have access to my PC until I get back from work trip, but what are the changes to the 2.0 model? Was it just proportion/scale changes?
 
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